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  1. As last post, not too bad, safety valves are a bit crooked, glazing and seat back in cab not fitted correctly, tender (matt) has a different finish to the loco (glossy). Tender printing reads 'BRIB 1234' and 'Water Capacity 4125 Gallons' both well printed. Yellow seems washed out as noted above. Moulded on handrails seem very thin so should come off quite easily.
  2. I did add a note pointing out this will effect the overall size, but in all the buildings I have built it only really means taking 1mm - 1.5mm off the internal floors. The small engine shed has no internal floors so makes no difference. These kits are fine if you want a quick fix, but it means you do not have anything unique. I use them as an alternative to building from scratch i.e. use the basic shape and frame and enhance as much as possible to make it better. Of course you can just colour the edges, stick a drain pipe on the corner (not very prototypical) or fill in with extra card (ending up with two cut lines to hide), everyone has their own favourite solution, tried some of these myself, but I know which i prefer. The other thing I do not like about Metcalfe kits, are the printed roofs, I think every single kit I have bought has the same bland colour roof, which I always cover with Scalescenes Slates or Tiles. Here's a pic (work in progress) showing hidden corners, Scalescenes Tiles and Flashings, added gutters and drain pipes, scratch built smoke hood covers, lamp, and bell box, with doors converted to working hinges (with maybe a view to solenoid operation) Now working on internal details and inspection pit, etc And I need to weather those window frames!
  3. I have found attaching the point motor direct to the point works really well. I centralised the point blades with two pieces of thick card positioned between the rails and point blades. Then used thick super glue, carefully applied to the relevant sleepers, held with small clamps until set. I found this much easier than trying to position and hold with screws. It does mean you have to cut a large hole, like fitting the Peco motors, but it does mean you can remove the point and motor in one piece and I have found the direct mounting makes for a more positive point change as there is less slop in the motor control rod.
  4. Metcalfe Buildings, as useful as they are, suffer from folding corners and exposed bare card, which can spoil their appearance. Colouring with markers never really works and I have even tried matching stone or brick motor lines with a fine Rotring pen and very small paintbrush, but the cut card is so porous it bleeds and spoils the effect. This method, although a bit fiddly works and in my opinion gives an even better finish than just wrapping around corners with brick papers. This was used on the Stone Single Track Engine Shed PO332, but I have used it on the brick Brewery Building with the same success. One proviso is because in some cases you are reducing the size of a wall, you may have to adjust the inner floors or other pieces that may not line up correctly after making the cuts shown. The first two photos show the normal Metcalfe corner and the second shows the results of my attempt. Hopefully the photos show the method, but here is a brief description. 1. Cut the two pieces that are normally folded. 2. Decide which piece is to form the lip and make a fine cut with a scalpel approx 1mm in from the edge on the back of piece (not the printed side). 3. Now carefully lift the grey card along the cut, gradually removing the layers until you are just about left with the printed paper. Try not to cut right the way through. I have found pushing a metal ruler along the cut produces the best result, as it removes any furry bits. 4. Fig 1 & 2 shows what you are trying to achieve. Now apply your glue of choice (I use Rocket Card Glue as it sticks really quick) along the edge and using a block of wood as a right angle, position and hold in place until set. So you should end up with a much better result than the standard method. Happy gluing.
  5. 23.3mm dia (difficult to measure with mouldings in the way) Cab to front of smokebox 101mm
  6. Just bought today in Dorchester. Checked for chimney was the correct way round, but did not notice the dodgy paint work and smokebox door at 90 degrees! Part of the motion is broken on one side, but registration of paint on left hand smoke deflector plus numerous scratches and missed paint on corners of tender means a repaint. I was only going to use it under the Ratio Loco Hoist so not too bothered. I have only bought the Mallard previously.
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