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I apologise for the additional advertising intrusion on tablets. I am trying to get the relevant parties to fix the situation. ×


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  1. When I was a teenager I bought a model aero Diesel engine . I wrote to ask the manufacturer, What is the temperature and pressure in the cylinder ? They replied “Very hot and very high”.
  2. This dilemma ( of conflicting data sources ) reminds me of advice given to me by a politically savvy boss . He said “Consult and hope for conflict amongst the views given and then pick the one closest to what you want to do”. Put another way , look at the sources and then Rule 1 applies !
  3. Which is a shame as W. E. Jones was a feminist . Yes that’s right.” Worrals “, one of his creations , was a female pilot who , if I recall correctly , shot down a German fighter over England … probably while delivering a Spitfire as an ATA pilot .
  4. Sorry , I beg to differ . Von Stalheim flew in WW1 and in WW2 and survived . Biggles rescued him from imprisonment by the Russians in the Cold War era . Obviously they knew the secret of eternal youth .
  5. Grandma and eggs time again . Might a possible use of ”the short siding “ be to store brake vans ? Or is that inappropriate as the minerals are already inside private sidings ? Or another use might be a siding for cripples . Enjoying the vicarious excitement of conceptualising and planning . Ken
  6. I endorse Barclay’s post . My LRM axles were aluminium and only needed light skimming as I described. I had also used a reamer on the horn blocks and the untreated axles jammed in them . After my bodge , they fitted .
  7. I recently converted a kit built OO gauge loco to EM gauge by substituting Markits EM gauge axles and reusing the original wheels . It worked a treat .
  8. Amanda take heart from the previous posters who are willing you on . Let’s remove some of the difficulties. First , the Wood Tech jigs are very good but you can get by without one .,The coupling rods , LRM axles and excellent design of the High Level kit mean you don’t need one . Secondly , you will need an EM gauge back to back gauge and a pack of spacing washers to take up the slack between the chassis and the extra width of the EM gauge axles . I have a spare of both , so send me a PM and I’ll post them on . Next some personal decisions . Do you want to build a simple or compensated chassis? Both work in EM gauge BUT imho they need weight to make them work . So as long as you add something like lead to the Jinty body , be assured both will work in EM gauge . Next Gibson or Markits wheels ? Both are good and work in EM gauge . Grandma and eggs time again but I guess it’s simplicity against cost ? In my experience, you will need the GW wheel press tool to make a success of Gibsons . You also need some care ; to countersink the crankpins; to countersink the rear of the wheels ; to radius the end of the axles and something like Loctite to secure the Gibsons to the axles . You said you have time and patience and will read the instructions… so you can do it . As against that , Markits with EM gauge axles set the the b to b and the quartering for you . But it’s extra costs. I infer that you want the satisfaction of building a compensated chassis ? If that’s so , I encourage you to go for it . Sometimes you need to jump in and then solve any issues as they arise . Again in my experience, compensated chassis need extra weight to make them work. But the impression of stability they give is worth any extra work . One further point . I haven’t seen the High Level chassis so don’t know if they come with cut outs for their horn blocks or not . If not , you will need to cut/fret the spaces for the horn blocks . Personally I use a piercing saw for this and don’t know whether you have one or not but it can be done in other ways . Think on and let us all know how it goes. All the best Ken
  9. Amanda possibly Grandma and eggs time , if so I apologise . My axles with pointed ends were fractionally oversize and wouldn’t fit the horn blocks . I spun them in a drill with Emery paper held against, which did the trick . I found the springs supplied were too strong and used Woolworths aluminium hair clips instead. When setting up the coupling rods , you may need to take them off repeatedly . Instead of using the crank pin nuts , try off cuts of the insulation from small electrical cable . Finally , pick ups . I’ve only used wire pick ups and find this stage problematic . It may be useful in the first instance to bypass them temporarily with wires direct to the motor terminals . Then , when satisfied you know if there is a problem later , it’s the pick ups at fault . Good luck and please let us know how it goes . Ken
  10. I endorse Jon’s suggestion of Roxey screw shackles for wagon loads . I used small offcuts of small brass tubes to represent the shock absorbers . Edit for typo .
  11. Yes . Following a review in Model Rail , I ordered a couple of OO packing cases and an N gauge . They arrived promptly . I have done a dry run ; everything fits accurately and , being plywood , they look authentic. Fair price . Yes , self assembly (Ho ho ) but again to state I’m just a pleased customer . No financial interest or connection. Hope this helps . Ken
  12. Osborns models sell some nice laser cut micro ply packing cases . They do a couple of sizes . No connection.
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