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  1. Thanks @Ravenser. I am satisfied with the outcome but as i say i would have liked a good old detailing kit. Yes, kadees would be quite restrictive but they are effective couplings. I use sprat and winkle hence the bar on the 121. Cheers for now. Dave
  2. I got the driving wheels (x9887) from lendons in cardiff. I managed to get the trailer wheels (x9888) from ac models. I could only get one set of trailer wheels but as long as the driving wheels are changed i think that is enough. I did that for the 101 and it runs beautifully.
  3. Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread in terms of image, info, anecdote, encouragement, advice and criticism. I would be grateful if you find anymore info or pics to post them here but i believe the project to be almost complete. I intend to do a full explanation of the project in the blog section at some point but here are a couple of shots of the cameo i have been aiming for. Cheers for now
  4. Yes they were Steve. I took a risk but they are not that expensive and i assumed Hornby use the same gears on their driving wheels. Theye are a smaller diameter but this does not register visually. A lot cheaper than the alternatives!!
  5. Cheers Steve. A job that has been lingering for a few years now. I also finally got the 121 running nice and smooth. I found the motor was very rough so got a replacement from Lendons of Cardiff. Added some extra pickups and swapped out the original wheels which have very deep flanges for the Hornby 153 wheels which have finer flanges and don't have tyres. Runs rather nicely now!
  6. I have struggled to find detailing kits for my DMU stock for some time. I had underestimated how hard it would be to make simple updates to affordable models (those were teh days it seems). I recall using Howes bufferbeam details to upgrade my Lima locos as a teenager back in the 90s. Anyway, it seems craftsman kits and the like are well out of business and being unable to find Heljan sprues from the DPU 128 model i set about making my own. I used .8 and .5mm brass wire for the vac pipes etc. The jumper cables were fuse wire as it is more malleable, easier to create the hanging look. The sockets and plugs are made from plastikard rod. Here i used Lanarkshire vac pipes and Smiths screw link coupling. I am pleased with the overall effect but mourn the passing of the days when upgrading seemed so much easier!! cheers for now.
  7. That is a really useful shot @astropsidings. I note the black "chalkboards" are in different positions on the different pics i have seen (which are few and far as @rodent279 points out). I elected to have them painted on the doors. I haven't got any chain small enough to represent the tie down chains on the door handles but will have a look at this. Here is progress so far, I have temporarily placed some dart castings mailbags and parcels in to gauge the effect. I am happy with the overall project so far. Some weathering of the body, ends and roof along with painted mailbags will see this project through to a close.
  8. Michael. The Simon Varnam build is a think of beauty!!!
  9. Ha ha, as i said over on the prototype questions forum i am very tempted to go for it!!! No one could ever possibly see it but hey, I'd know it was there!!! As i said above...minefield!! Cheers for now Dave
  10. Thank you @bradfordbuffer ! As i was saying above, the goalposts of detail have been moved several times but its a cameo scene i have wanted to create for a few years now. I have slightly stalled as i want to tackle the inside, painting the opposite side door detail etc. I also need to re-work the end steps which i have been reminded were removed and the tank filler pipes were shorter grab handles!! What a minefield!!! But i have to confess i am very pleased so far and as such...yes i have uploaded it to the how realistic thread!! Slightly premature but i am quite excited by the project Cheers for now Dave
  11. Really useful thanks MJI. This project is a minefield but fascinating also. I modelled the roof to 1980s level neglect and is out of period. Thing is, i keep adjusting the goalposts of how much i want to to do but i am now thinking of taking the roof right back, removing the ribs and replacing the ventilators. I may need to have a word with myself if i start modelling the red spare screwlink inside...hmmm;-) Cheers for now
  12. Hi Johnster, I captured some shots from the game Train Sim World of the interior. You might want to verify the authenticity! Despite never being viewable i am tempted to model a bit more of the guards compartment including the red screw link!! Here is my approximation of the compartment so far.. Cheers Dave
  13. Thanks BR for that. I am always happy to spend time with the beatles for research purposes or otherwise. Funny, i happen to be reading Shout! At the moment! Cheers for now, Dave
  14. Thanks Kier. I did wonder about the filler pipes. I am certainly going to sort these bits and bobs out. As for the very top step, i don't believe it have any functional requirement to stay. I will need to consider the order of operations carefully as i am eager to complete this project but don't want to create a half baked model. I am unhappy with the roof weathering which i now feel represents a much later state of decay. If i strip it back again i may tackle the ribs but this could be opening a another can of worms!! I was happy to see a maroon BG in that picture btw!! Cheers for now. Dave
  15. @Dubloseven which 12t chassis did you use? Are the parkside 10ft fitted chassis quite similar in their kits? cheers
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