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  1. Hi James, This is fantastic work mate. I found the suggestion to use a pale blue wash over white particularly interesting. The issue I have with weathering is my level of patience. The logical me knows I can't rush it but I just want to get it done. Apologies as I have not read all of the thread and you have probably explained this but are the rusty browns hand brushed? This really is great work. Dave.
  2. I had the same problem. One jar i never was able to open, having virtually destroyed the lid in a vice, the very top remained stuck fast! Mick's advice shall be followed from now on for me.
  3. Hi Camden, Thank you for your kind comment. I must say i really enjoyed putting together the article. It was a chance meeting with Barry Norman that led to it being written. It definitely made me think deeper on why i love this great hobby so much. As you can imagine, i was thrilled to see it get into print. Cheers. Dave
  4. westernviscount

    I Needed A Rest.

    Thanks Geoff, I think the Dapol kits are excellent still and usually at less than £6 a go they are a bargain. I too am a fan of revamping these kits, my latest being a conversion to an LNER 20t example. Thanks for the tips on building a mermaid. I agree, Cambrian kits are not for beginners. I found the catfish really difficult, finding it hard to get the chassis true. The mermaid will certainly add to my engineers train. Cheers. Dave
  5. westernviscount

    I Needed A Rest.

    I really like the look of this layout! I'm also happy to see a Dapol b tank enthusiast!!! It's strange timing as i am pondering whether to buy a cambrian mermaid and wondered how you found building the kits? And is that an upgraded Dapol 20t brake van i see?
  6. Hi Steve, There was an article on track in Model rail october 2019 issue which shows techniques for creating wonky, industrial track work. Cheers Dave
  7. Thanks Mick, Yes, i assumed as a base coat it wouldn't matter and as you state it was 4mins since the initial spray of course it would not have dried thoroughly. I have found humbrol acrylic to be pretty reliable. It dries extremely quickly (perhaps on the way to the model) which can create a powdery finish if used as a final fixing coat for powders. This is exactly what i am after. Humbrol acrylic is the nearest i have got to this so far Cheers Dave
  8. Hi Mick, I think your work is excellent and has inspired my own development of my weathering skills. It wasn't an area i enjoyed previously but realise patience is indeed a virtue. Where do you get your dullcote from as i hear it is the very best for this job? I have used railmatch enamel matt spray, humbrol enamel matt spray, humbrol acrylic matt spray, games workshop purity seal and a thinned humbrol matt cote sprayed through a humbrol splat gun. I am yet to be 100% satisfied with any (humbrol enamel rattle can giving the worst result) but the humbrol acrylic comes nearest to what i want. Your photo suggests the dullcote has not dried evenly. For your base coat this is not an issue i know, but do you commonly get a uniform finish with dullcote? Many thanks Dave
  9. Thanks ess. The final coat of enamel spray almost ruined it and needed to be brushed off as it creates a powdery layer. I have had a bit of trouble with the running qualities of this loco and ended up causing damage to the bogie and worm housing trying to rectify the issue. But, a bit of glue and frustration sorted the problem. Cheers
  10. Looking forward to seeing this take shape. I have a soft spot for these vehicles as loved going to Liverpool on them as a kid. I found the atmosphere in the tunnel on the wirral line both thrilling and a little frightening, heightened by the gradual build up of the draft, the noise and the headlight coming into view!! Brilliant!! Good luck with the build.
  11. I think some greasy spots on the buffers, paint the buffer shanks silver and some oily stains around the fuel tanks will be enough. Perhaps some more brakedust on the bogie frames also.
  12. Thanks Steve, I'm reasonably happy with the outcome. I used humbrol enamel matt spray as opposed to my normal acrylic matt to seal the powders and i wouldn't recommend this as it gave a real splatter effect and frosted. I found brushing the frosting away worked and gives the body sides a faded look.
  13. Further pictures of the finish.
  14. For a layout set in 1970, Templefield has been sadly lacking my favourite locomotive; the ubiquitous class 47. The hole in my loco stable was recently filled by a Bachmann 47 in the perfect livery for the era, and one that suits these locos superbly, two tone green with full yellow ends. Lovely as it is, there is no way the livery would have been as immaculate as the factory finish and so, some gratuitous "filthying" needed to happen. The loco was dismantled, windows removed, metal handrails removed and headcode masked. The body and underframe was hit with humbrol acrylic matt spray. This is to create a "tooth" for the weathering powders to adhere to. Powders are lightly brushed onto the body with a fine brush areas according to photographs of the class at this time period. The roof was completely covered with humbrol smoke, obliterating the green. The whole lot is fixed with a mist of matt spray but great caution is required. Never spray in the cold!!!!
  15. Yep, pretty sure it did. Agreed, the colour supplement is where it comes to life. I remember being captivated by the mk1 coach. It looked so real!!!
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