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  1. Filling cast Doubly so if you're working with resin kits or parts - the recommendation is to do any filing outside whilst wearing a proper respirator mask (I regard resin castings as one of the minor works of the Devil himself, so I never have to follow this advice !).
  2. Pretty much what everyone has said - passing contact with and exposure to lead isn't a problem as long as you wash your hands and don't eat whilst modelling. Aside from the risk of injury from blades and soldering irons, the real nasties on the workbench are expoxy resin and Miliput as these can quickly cause very unpleasant forms of dermatitis in some people. Again, always washing your hands after using them and maybe wearing disposable latex decorators gloves is all that's required to be safe. You could wear these gloves when handling lead and white metal but a good scrub with detergent and
  3. A few years ago, I contributed to some clinical guidelines on the definition, assessment and treatment of pathological hoarding . I have always assumed that I was asked to contribute because of my professional background and clinical experience, not because of my small collection of pre-1960 Tri-ang toy trains.
  4. It all depends on what's underneath (or what's not underneath !) - the mechanical specification of K's kits changed over the years with different wheels and motor systems, so the rather unprototypical cab interior will be related to whichever motor and gear set up was in favour with K's in the mid-1960s when the Kirtley Goods was first released. One solution would be to use a Slaters MR backhead casting, which should be a direct fit at least for the top of the boiler backhead [I'm presuming that these are probably as common on the USA as Colorado Midland cabooses are in the UK, so I've sent
  5. Funnily enough, when I was working on my 4mm M&CR tenders a couple of weeks ago, I actually got out one of my HO engines, a NWSL Baldwin 2-6-2, and noted that the tender body off this engine would have been a pretty good match for the 6 wheeled M&CR tender in 4mm. It was a similar Webb / Ramsbottom design and the difference in scale 'corrected' the difference in the sizes of the prototypes.
  6. I should have added that I've only ever used it for securing brass gears to steel axles when installing 'High Level' gearboxes.
  7. I think you might be on to something here as this can be done with a Portescap-powered engine as the wheels on such can be rotated by hand, something that can't be done with a conventional motor and gearbox. Regarding retaining fluid, I've tried own-brand/generics and not had much success with them and would concur with the recommendation to use Loctite 603.
  8. I'd forgotten about the Sharman wheels being moulded into the tyre.
  9. The loose tyre confirms the wheels as Sharman or Gibson or similar. As for the variable angle of the motor and gearbox, it's just the result of the gear box 'climbing' around the driving wheel and should have no bearing [no pun intended] on the running or otherwise. A lump or blu-tac or small blob of silicon bath sealant between the underside of the motor and a chassis member will fix this. As for the erratic running, obviously sorting out the B-2-B is crucial and then I would suggest removing the existing pick-ups and fitting new ones to the pcb pick up plate. Iain Rice's advice is good here
  10. Depends what the 'glue' is - if it's cyanoacrylate superglue, then a deft application of the soldering iron will de-polymerise the glue and release the parts [make sure you protect your eyes as the vapours, even in minute quantities, are akin to CS gas]. Similarly, anything like Evostik will respond to heat and soften. Epoxy resin is temperamental when it comes to removing it - you can sometimes just 'ping' it off wires with a scalpel blade, other times you're better off filing it off [encasing electronic components in epoxy resin used to be a common way to prevent competitors working out your
  11. You can take a scalpel and very carefully probe around the wheel centre to see if you can find the edge of a thin brass overlay over the axle ends / centre boss of the wheels. If this is present, then odds on, the wheels are Romfords and can be unscrewed with the fabled Romford screwdriver.
  12. CKPR

    Unbuilt kitmaster 08

    There's a couple of these kits for sale on Ebay at the moment.
  13. [1] I suggest working your way back to the motor from the pick-up wires and test the pick-ups, the pick-up plate between the drivers [check that this isn't shorting out] and then the motor itself. In fact, I would take the body off the engine to check that there aren't any shorts 'twixt body and chassis [the pick ups to both wheels suggests that it's probably been built with the chassis as electrically dead]. [2] if the motor turns over with the body off but not with it on, then this may indicate shorting out in two places somewhere on the engine [the steps are usually where most short
  14. I would suggest using simple three point compensation with Comet or MJT W-irons and re-using the original axle-boxes and springs, suitably thinned down of course.
  15. Mark Twain's wry observation about politicians and nappies comes to mind.
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