Lurch

I would assume because you have zoom set at 2:1?

Even then though the supplier can do something about it, i.e. not turn the power off on a whim. Smart meters have been about in commercial premises for many years and you don't see surgeries and offices etc being plunged into darkness on a regular basis. Yes the intention of the new wave of domestic smart meters is to do load shedding and control the grid but that doesn't mean they just disconnect you and leave you with no electricity! The early resistance the smart meters made sense as they were unreliable and were tied to each supplier so couldn't be used if you switched tariffs or providers. I don't see what valid argument there is for not having one now?

I'm intrigued as to what normally flows through the wires in a SCART lead?

Or just use whatever/as many connector types as you can?

That's pretty much exactly what AdBlockPlus started doing several years ago. They won't block their partners ads which effectively means it is worthless. Use Ublock Origin instead.

This is mostly old wives tales. I use pretty much exclusively lead free solder (both for hobbies and for manufacturing assembly) and have no trouble soldering in pretty much the same way as I used to with 60/40 leaded. The only noticeable difference is you may need to heat the object (wire/solder pad/whatever) up for a second or 2 longer than with the 60/40. The higher temp you need is only really in the order of 50°C for most solders and the temp is still well within the normal operating range of even the most basic soldering irons. Usually when people say "lead free doesn't work" it means they are trying to solder in exactly the same manner as they did with 60/40.

Assume the painted sleeper here denotes the location of the uncoupling magnet?

Ebay don't manually review every listing and check where each item was manufactured if you don't know. If you put unknown then no-one knows.

Oh, I was slightly hesitant about leaving that bit in, heard arguments for both sides but never really cared enough to look into it.

The arrow points to the negative end. Usually the stripe denotes which leg is negative on radial capacitors (where both legs are on the same end). The arrow points to the negative end on the radial capacitors. The stripe usually has the minus sign on it.

Semantics? It can charge it, just not to the rated capacity of the battery. If that's not your definition of "charged" then fair enough. The battery being "charged" to a half capacity with an incorrect charger is the same as charging to half capacity with the correctly rated charger.

Not strictly true. Take a flat 12V battery and connect it to a <12V power supply and it will float charge to the power supply voltage.

I disagree. Some provide some assistance to hillside rigidity and also provide noise screening where stations are in urban areas for example. I've been in properties where the trees have been cleared and you can then hear all station announcements and the general "station noises".

Absolutely. My point was more "if you don't like it don't use it". Every time I have an experience with Ebay it is not positive, YMMV and all that.

Looks like a masthead splitter for TV distribution of some description. The thicker trunk cable usually runs around several blocks on private sites looping through these taps and the thinner ones are attenuated outputs to feed individual outlets/properties. Usually find the splitters/taps in cabinets or enclosures, or indoors in roof spaces though.