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  1. Thanks to Rod and Howard it was a pleasure just to 'play trains' for a while and we were all given a most warm welcome by our hosts. We were also treated to some excellent home made cake when we paused between activities, which made the day even more special! Not sure about the bald old bloke in the striped T-shirt, although he does look vaguely familiar . . . Thanks again. Martyn
  2. Weatherman


    I was studying one of these in a mirror but it was just a 'pale' representation compared to the original . . . sorry, couldn't resist . . .
  3. Thanks for the information, which amplifies my point that we can work within one sector of a hobby without being aware of what's going on in another. Glad I asked and eagerly await developments. Martyn
  4. I'd fully expected that would be the case but I was more intrigued by the quality and variety of sounds I heard and was wondering if the creators of these might consider using them to program DCC chips as well as just computer train simulators. Or maybe they already do? Some branches of our hobby interests rarely cross paths - new techniques to us can have been commonplace in, say, military modelling for years whereas we'll only have heard of said techniques by chance. It would appear the sounds used in Train Simulator (there are other simulators, of course) are loco specific rather than ge
  5. I stumbled across some Train Sim videos showing new GWR locos etc and was particularly impressed with the recorded sounds used. Realistic with good depth of tone (inside cab sounds particularly of note with firebox door open and general wheel rumble etc) and idly wondered if these sounds, although in a totally alien to me format, could be converted somehow for use in our chips. Daft idea?
  6. I don't have those copies of GWRJ - anybody care to post details here so I can sort out my fencing too? As you were - now have this information, namely the wooden posts were 4ft 10ins. above ground level and the wires were spaced (from the ground) 4", 4", 4", 5", 6", 7", 10", 12" apart, so eight wires in total.
  7. Thanks everyone - I can rest easier with my 45xx pulling a few wagons into the scene now.
  8. It's only now I've pondered the question as I have a lined green 45xx and need to know if it would be prototypical for it to haul pick up goods trains. I have a 74xx pannier to do this work but trawling through books and online, I haven't come across any examples and it's the sort of question to which I feel I should know the answer . . .
  9. That's good to know and thanks for the positive feedback. Plans are afoot for a new step-by-step weathering book in colour to be published at some stage in the not too distant, in case you're interested. I've been nagged by two publishers now and as it's been quite a long period since I wrote the first one, I think I'll have to bite the bullet and start work on it soon. In answer to your question, I don't bother masking the wheel treads because I find it's unnecessary. I clean the treads with cellulose thinners on a cotton bud after I've finished any spraying - it comes off pretty quickly,
  10. I think the lining is a single application surrounding the numbering that is applied separately or at least that's my guess. Interestingly some of the expensive RTR models made in the far east appear to have a printed on varnish rather than sprayed (could be wrong) and I've found that weathering and removing much of it from a boiler, say, means it's almost impossible to retrieve the original varnished appearance, even when I think all the weathering's been removed. Thinners appear to slightly dull the finish beyond the point of return to the original state, which can be frustrating and alt
  11. It was very difficult to photograph the problem and from many angles you'd be hard pushed to even notice the difference between the gloss black of the lining and the dull satin black of the main body paintwork. In the photo above, the black of the lining - particularly notable to the left side of the image, looks a lot darker than that of the body paintwork and I almost decided to ignore it but it's only when the light's right, so to speak, that it shows up the issue, which is why, to eliminate this slight variation in sheen, I gloss varnished the entire bodywork as a base for subsequent weat
  12. Did a CV008 = 008 and the sound's back in sync again.
  13. I followed the instructions and set the recall number to 4 and it now scrolls through the three I have plus one blank space - could set it to 3 but plan on adding another loco to the fleet shortly. A new issue now, though. I read on one the DC sites that if a loco was a tiny bit juddery on start and stop (the Lionheart pannier is), set CV54 to 0, press F1 and the loco would move off at high speed then adjust itself which should iron out the juddering. I did this and whilst it's reduced the judder, the chuffs have gone into more than double speed mode - I have a chuff less than every qu
  14. I went through the manual again but for the life of me couldn't see how to get more than the two locos listed - think what I thought the relevant page says you have just two locos you can recall. Given it worked once before, I'll follow your instructions above - the procedure you describe is starting to ring bells in my memory cells, so hopefully tomorrow I'll get it sorted and will report back. Thanks for the replies from both of you - much appreciated.
  15. The recall button just brings up the last two locos used. If I then punch in the number of the third loco and Enter, one of the other locos is then no longer listed in the recall stack if I press recall again and scroll through.
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