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    Steam Engines, LMS - 1930's, North West England, Lake District, Walking, Motorcycles,

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  1. Last months Railway Modeller has an article about constructing a waterfall using crystal clear sealant. I am sure u can get some which is UV resistant from a diy store. The article was by the lady from the Ch 5 model railway challenge show.
  2. I built both the comet stove R and the Ian Macdonald Palethorpes kit and agree Ian's chassis is superb!!!
  3. To update, i managed to trim down the flange on my Coal tank using my proxxon drill and a file. It did improve things however, i do not really want to do this to all my locos and i even had trouble with a rtr Crab. So, with heavy heart i have ripped up the offending end of the layout, removing the station and platforms and have worked out a way of adding enough width to enable a large enough radius curve by adding a few inches of board near the window. All it means is access is a bit more restrictive to the far corner but i shpuld be ok to reach for cleaning etc. Track has already arrived, jus
  4. I'm biased and would have to vote LMS. I started off modelling the North West (West Coast / S&C) but gradually crept East so now have a Sheffield suburban set with Compounds and 2-6-4t's. I have a few LNER wagons to add variety!
  5. Thanks all. I have a spare wheel or two so might try grinding one down just to see if its something i can do well enough and see how it looks. It might be a year or two before i get around to a new layout, although i am in no major rush.
  6. I have around 15 kit built loco's and will try tbem out over the next week or so to see if any work or not. Selling them is probably the last thing i would do amd i would rather rebuilt part of the layout if it came down to it. I am toying with the idea of a new layout anway and this might help push me towards that option.
  7. I have just removed a gearbox from my Webb Coal Tank and tried negotiating the curves with just the rolling chassis, coupling rods still connected. The front wheels get pushed off the track sideways so even with maximum side play on the chassis, it still struggles to go around. Looks like a layout rebuild on the one end is in order or stick to rtr until i can afford to build a new layout which can have more generous curves.
  8. Most of my gearboxes are mounted on the centre axle reducing side play somewhat. I have both fixed and jointed coupling rods, fixed bearings and some with partially sprung or fully sprung hornblocks. All are pretty much affected. I would say the radius on the worst curve is a little tighter than 2nd, although all of my rtr locos navigate them without any issues. For my next build i am going to mount the gearbox on the rear axle and allow much more side play in the middle to see if that improves the running
  9. I have built quite a few kits over the last couple of years and really enjoy the challenge. However, i have ran into a bit of an issue. After testing a few locos on the straight, most run perfectly well. The other day i finally cleaned my layout, track and sorted out a few niggling areas and tested a couple of the locos. The problem is i have a couple of curves which are a little on the tight side and most of my kit built locos wont go round them without derailing due to binding. RTR have no issues. Checked all the usual back to backs etc and all are good. Would a flangless middle
  10. Bit late so probably not helpful but i have chipped 32-178 LMS Black lined model of 2715. The DCC Concepts/Gaugemaster/Hattons derived chip fitted perfectly where the old DC circuit board was.
  11. No More Nails. Squeezed around the base and smoothed with a brush or decant some into a tub, mix in some colour to blend it in with the surrounding ground and apply using a small brush. Used it to fix my rough stone walls, buildings, platforms etc.
  12. Ty all for the kind comments and reactions. I did enjoy building the Nu-cast kit. Went together relatively easy. The Wills one was a little more challenging and much less detailed. I think i will end up rebuilding the chassis on that one as it runs like a duck on acid!!
  13. On the nu cast i spung the whole chassis using highlevel kits hornblocks so no problem. I used the same hornblocks for the outer axles on the wills loco. The highlevel kit hornblocks drop in nicely into the comet chassis. EDIT: Hornblocks are from Brassmasters not High Level...
  14. All finished. Final coat of Alclad 2 Klear Kote Flat applied yesterday. Just left to add some tools and will get it on the layout.
  15. Thank you and i think its down to how thick the coat is as well. I tested some paint and decals on a plastic tub, then applied a couple of coats of Alclad 2 Klear Cote and no reaction to either paint or decal. I then gave my loco a coat and it came out perfect. Thin light coats only seemed to work no problem. edit. The good thing with Alclad is it can be applied using an airbrush so u can control the flow. The Humbrol one seemed to work ok when i misted a coat over another model, but bloomed badly when i sprayed to close and heavy.
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