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ianLMS

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    Steam Engines, LMS - 1930's, North West England, Lake District, Walking, Motorcycles,

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  1. The topic seems to have drifted off on some very interesting and educational discussion concerning flux and solder. So, the bring it back on topic i thought i would post a few pics of progress so far. I used the MJT hornblocks on the loco chassis and used the Maygib plastic ones in the tender as designed. Seems to be working ok. Compensating was a bit tricky and the weighting of the loco and tender was crucial for it to sit level and run properly. All thats left now is numbering, lettering and weathering. I will add a proper coal load which will cover the liquid lead weight in the tender.
  2. N20/Gearbox and plastic bevel gears ordered off Ebay as linked in the previous posts to experiment with on my next kit (Proscale Webb Coal Tank & Alan Gibson Jinty)
  3. Quick question (and probably a very silly one) but when using the bevel gears with this set up, I assume you put one on the motor drive axle shaft and the same size bevel gear on the wheel axle. As there is no grub screw, do you just superglue it to the axle?
  4. Just ordered the 2mm and 1/8th" reamers from Eilleens. Thank you for the advice and guidance! I have plenty of broaches and smoothers. Hopefully the bearings i fit will now be straight instead of tapered!!!
  5. yes sorry - I have sets of tapered "broaches" for up to about 3mm holes/bearings and I have one tapered "reamer" for 1/8" bearings. I will now be looking for straight reamers to add to my ever growing tool kit! Are these suitable? https://www.cutwel.co.uk/hole-making/reamers/hsshsse-hand-reamers/hss-straight-flute-hand-reamer-yg-1-k1143-series I assume 3.2mm is closest to 1/8th Inch. Either way - To stay on-topic as it where, I rarely have a bearing which the axle slides through immediately without the need to take some of the burrs off from the milling/manufacturing process.
  6. With all of the axle bearings I have had from a variety of sources (Gibson, Branchlines, MJT, Romford, DJH kits etc), some, if not all usually require a very tiny amount of fettling with a reamer to get the axle to go through, and spin freely. If you intend on doing this with any more axles, or plan on kit building, changing chassis' etc, I cannot recommend buying a set of reamers highly enough. It makes the job so much easier and safer! I only use tapered reamers. Not sure how square reamers work for opening out holes to the right size and get it perfectly square. In other words, how do you get a 3mm square reamer dead centre in a 2.5mm hole? Engineers I am sure will be scoffing at my stupidity, but I am always told, there is no such thing as a silly question. if you don't know, ask!
  7. From the chassis' I have built so far, I would say I prefer the Comet and the SE Finecast ones over the older more solid type. Some were so thick my soldering iron wouldn't touch it. The Maygib one was fine, it just didn't give an option if you wanted a fixed chassis. It had the cut-outs already put in for the hornblocks and no way of making them solid unless you purchased the solid hornblock kits that is. In the end, I used Comet chassis spacers using the pre-drilled holes in the chassis sides and it all went together nice and square.
  8. Thanks for that. I used a 1mm brass rod and it seems ok so far. Of course it may behave differently on the layout so we will see. Hopefuly i will get the dcc chip fitted and test run it over the next week or so
  9. I will have a read of the 4mm chassis constr uction book and see what they recommend. 1\16th equals arpund 1.6mm in new money
  10. I have been working on the kit on and off over the past few weeks but have eventually got a rolling chassis working complete with motor and gearbox. I purchased a Comet 4F chassis just to see, but the length was different and the height would have required a lot of fettling. So, I soldered the MJT hornblocks, which was fun in itself and used the Markits hornblock axle jigs to aid lining them up. I fitted a Comet 2-stage gearbox with Mistsui motor and so far, the chassis is moving quite nicely with the Comet coupling rods installed. Question: I have fitted a 0.6mm wire for the compensation, but I am not sure if this is going to the job. Any recommendations which wire should be used for this? I assume it will all need a bit of adjustment once the weighted body is fitted so it sits level. The body is complete so all that's left now apart from the tender is to fit the brakes/sandboxes, pick-ups (where I usually struggle) and DCC chip, weight the body and begin to paint everything. Pics to follow soon. Ian
  11. Go for it!! You definitely wont regret it and there are so many experienced folks on here to help you through it!!! Mistakes will be plentiful, scratching head, giving up, returning to the kit and inspirational moments are all part of the fun! The satisfaction of creating something yourself at the end of it is one of the best feelings you get from this hobby. Before taking the plunge building loco kits less than 3 years ago, I cut my teeth on much cheaper plastic/brass/white metal wagon kits from Ebay (Falcon, Jidenco, Parkside etc). Once I understood some of the basics, I moved on to a Craftsman 1P 0-4-4T complete with wheels and a recommendation on which motor and gearbox. No valve gear to mess with and it gave me a chance to attempt soldering white metal and brass components. I then kept an eye on Ebay and grabbed cheap(ish) kits of LMS locos I wanted to have a go at building, from all sorts of manufacturers. Some are much easier than others to put together, some are very dated and some are very complicated. Some benefit from a better/more modern chassis from Comet (Wizard models), and some benefit from more modern detailing parts. I have used Alan Gibson and Romford/markits wheels, Comet and High Level gearboxes and Mashima/Mitsui motors. All with differing success. Getting the right gearbox/gear ratio/motor is where folks like High Level Kits/Wizard help out. They have useful guides and scale drawings so you can chose the right combination. My biggest challenges tend to be: 1. Getting the chassis square (now use Poppy's jig, Comet chassis jigs, and Romford Axle jigs to help) 2. Adequate pick-up arrangement 3. Motion Gear 4. Curving brass to the right shape (using foam mat and metal rods) Things which will help: DVD's from Right Track on how to build loco's (presented by Tony Wright) and 4mm Chassis and loco kit building books (Iain Rice I believe). They help explain things the instructions tend to miss out! There are also video's on You-Tube from the Loco Builder which help you to visualize how things are done. I have only been building loco kits for the last 3 years - so far I am on my 7th and learning each time I build one. List so far: Craftsman 1P 0-4-4T - quite complicated SE Finecast 4F 0-6-0 - probably the easiest kit to work on Cotswold LMS Jinty - used Comet chassis Jamieson 2-6-0 Mogul with Golden Arrow body - chassis was a challenge - best avoided Model Loco Ltd/DJH Black 5 - 4-6-0 - lovely kit to build but requires motion gear which is very complicated. Millholme LMS Patriot 4-6-0 - as with the DJH Currently building Maygib Johnson 3F 0-6-0 To do: 3 x Jamieson kits - Black 5, Jubliee Alan Gibson 3F Jinty Proscale LNWR Webb Coal Tank Either way, good luck and enjoy!! Ian
  12. I think once you have sealed it with a good primer, paitning it the same as you would a plastic kit should work. The BRM dvd this month has a article on building a laser cut engine shed, and just primes it with a white primer. After that, you could rub over with pencils, chalks, pastels, or dry-brush using enamels/acrylics etc. Ian
  13. A quick look in Google images brought up a few layouts with airports Just search "model railway layouts with airports" Ian
  14. Thank you Dean and glad you like the layout. My family are from the Midlands, hence the LMS connection and I really love the Lake's and Dales from that area. I wanted an era to display the loco's I really like which operated in and around the midlands and North East. For my RAF connection; 1. My surname is Lancaster 2. I have worked for the MoD/RAF/USVF for 30 years as a civilian 3. My first models were all Airfix aircraft models, my favourite being the Hunter, Spitfire, Mosquito and of course, the Lancaster. However, back then everything was covered in tubes of stringy glue and the painting was somewhat slap-dash. My dad is a steam nut (BR Midland region), so when I was young we would travel around preserved railways which fueled my interest as well. I combined the two interests together and thats what took me down the road of railway modelling.
  15. I used superglue but it will clean off ok. I have the Poppy's jig and will use the coupling rods to set the MJT hornblacks in place.
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