Fingers

Moxy, Many thanks, it certainly helps. I did a little more delving through an intruiging album on Flikr (Ernie's Railway Archive), and have come across pictures of Garelochhead in 1950/60's showing the painting 'standard' as dark brown/cream/white! As this is the intended period of my layout, I think that's the way it's going. Cheers, Paul

I thought it would be quite straight forward to sort out some paint for Scottish railway buildings, but I seem to be struggling to find either a comprehensive list of colours or a colour chart. I'm building a layout based on Garelochhead circa 1960 and have colour photographs of buildings in green (woodwork) with off-white windows. Can anyone give me a pointer toward the two colours, and also suggestions for a reddish lino floor and a generic 'concrete' colour. Many thanks in advance. Paul

Njee, Thanks for the reply. I'll blame having to learn the programme from ground up (very small steps!). Funnily enough I did find the reciprocal but used a wrong dimension, which is why I had the error. Taking a step back and recalculating, Eureka it works! All I've got to do know is work through how to make multiple copies for an economical print. Also given force needed to remove a print from board tonight I'll need to learn how to lift prints off table on 'legs'. Cheers, Paul

Bill, Thanks for the prompt reply, although it's got me scratching my head. If I understood you correctly, you're drawing at 12mm = 1 foot, so 1/4" would be drawn at 0.25mm. I'm clearly missing something then as you'd need to reduce by 1/3 to give 4mm scale (and again 0.333 would give an error? David, Thanks too for your reply. It somehow confirmed my thought that slicer software was just that! Cheers, Paul

I'd like to throw myself on the mercies of the assemvled throng please! I'm (very) slowly learning my round Fusion 360 as a 3-D design programme, and have been drawing up some "small" items in 4mm (P4) that I'd like to print in resin. Historically, I used Turbocad and always drew at full size and then scaled to suit. I've kept this method of working with Fusion 360, but it throws a tantrum if one tries to scale at 1.76.2 - the decimal place gives an error and the closest I can get is 1.76, which gives an 18" long object a length of 5.941mm instead of 6mm. 1. How do other Fusion 360 users draw and scale? Is there a factor to give 4mm/ft that I'm missing? 2. Am I being pedantic about the error? However, this would translate into an error of 6mm in a 60 foot length. 3. I'm taking it for granted that you wouldn't rely on slicer programme for scaling? Many thanks in advance for any assistance. Cheers, Paul

Young, Many thanks for the lead. Agree with you unlikely to change by 1960 so have opened the purse to treat myself! Paul

Just wondering whether anyone out there has, or knows where I can access, a working timetable for the West Highland Line [specifically Garelochead] preferably around 1960. Having been under the impression the route was relatively quiet and had developed thoughts on some services to suit how services might have worked, I've been surprised by just how busy it seems to have been! All help duly welcomed. Paul

Of course, you mustn't forget that most people won't realise that if you choose the wrong stairs to change platforms, it's likely you'll need to leave "the station" through the barriers, do a lap of honour around the piazza (I was going to say concourse, but it's only a thoroughfare to the hops, innit!), and then re-enter "the station" through another set of barriers. Passenger friendly, errr, not really! Paul

There was a series of articles in BRILL a few years ago on the Manchester - Sheffield electrification with lots of track plans (extracted from OS sources I think). I know Glossop was shown but can't recall which edition. When I've completed this mornings list of labours from the Management and probably walked the dogs I'll delve into the cupboard. Paul

Just picked up on this thread and am impressed by the improved look of the coach by taking couplings off bogie and body mounting. Which particular type of coupling did you use and is there a chance of a couple of photographs showing the underside. I dropped a PM but thought I'd cover bases. Paul

John, No problems with the slight hi-jack of thread, one persons pain is another's gain! Back to the grindstone as they say, and if I've used my new fangled multi-meter correctly (I am passed out at wiring plugs and changing light bulbs only!) then I am pleased to announce the happy union of two chassis halves! A further slight pause will now occur whilst I check if I ordered the 30:1 gear set. I'd also like to check from those with the knowledge about the 14/16 gears. I think I need the 3.0 (shop parts 3-385 & 3-386) rather than the 4.0 ones as one is out of stock at the moment. Looking forward beyond putting the wheels on my wagon, I'm starting to think about the outside framing and details. There don't appear to be any axlebox/springs or sanding boxes. Not having made any effort to strip down the existing locomotive, an I missing something or does one re-use from locomotive? Paul

Ah, then might I risk the wrath of Chris by suggesting an error in section 6 of the generic instructions! Just read it again to be certain and it says if building a loco with strengthening frames added 6mm PCB is required otherwise the 6.4mm PCB is used. Many thanks for pointing out what is probably obvious to those with more experience than I. Roll on the next free time to see how easily I can melt PCB! Cheers, Paul

Me again! Had a little time spare this morning and thought about tackling the frame spacers and (hopefully) successfully joining said frames together. Got the remaining sections of frame folded to required shape and sat the two halves into the jig and have become slightly baffled, which isn't too difficult! According to the instructions, the correct PCB frame spacer material should be 6.4mm, but this size seems to pull the ends of the frame together. I've measured the internal gap between frames and it's 7mm and 7mm PCB material fits comfortably and doesn't appear to bulge the frames. On the basis that I'd really like to assemble the chassis in one go (am I mad!) could I ask the assembled throng for their opinion on which is the correct size PCB material Ta in advance. Paul

With many thanks to Jim for spotting the obvious solution (really must think harder!!!), managed to grab an hour today to get bushed! Not sure on building etiquette but with use of pliers and pointy objects to hold in place got gearbox folded and soldered. As expected, the bushes needed attention from a broach to ensure clearance for axles. This was fun as it proved my fallable soldering when two bushes detached themselves on the broach (whoops!). Quick re-soldering and then off to the sink for a wash and rub down. Back in the box to steal myself for joining frames together - trepidation awaits! Paul

Well, I had a spare hour this morning and so a start has been made! First up was the chassis jig, which was removed from fret and cleaned with file. I then surprised myself that the sides were easily folded to shape by finger rather than tool, and then fingers used to hold the joints whilst soldering. Lesson one now under belt - heat does like to travel and ends of fingers did get a little warm :senile:I must admit though for a first serious soldering effort that all went well (one small step forward!) Second up the frames (apologies for the frames being a little fuzzy in the photograph. Again, duly released from fret and cleaned up. Discovered 0.3mm drills are very small and the pin drill I bought is too big to hold! Fingers to the rescue once again to twiddle the drill and check the holes for brakes and Simpson springs. Logical next step to fix the wheel & gear bushes, and discovered a new game - bush tiddlywinks! Oh my days! It was easy to get the bushes to sit in the frame holes but go near them with the soldering iron (even when holding with tweezers!) and p-yoing off to the carpet monster it would go! End result is three bushes attached with enough solder to sink the Bismark I fear (my excuse is that I've tinned the frame ready for a spacer - no, I didn't think so As a result my soldering skills have taken the obligatory two steps back and I may have to ponder how to stop tiddlywinks from becoming popular. More as and when it happens Paul