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    Cotswolds England

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  1. Sounds like the driving wheel flanges could be hitting the rail chairs. The old solid non see through Triang wheels are prone to this on modern track, Code 75 you can guarantee it, code 100 track it depends on the make, The wheels come in Mazak and Iron versions. Mazak, grey monkey metal, can be filed down fairly easily in a lathe, drill chuck or by spinning the loco wheels against a file or emery cloth, even a stone, where as the Iron ones basically can't. Far too hard. To check take the motor out and push the chassis by hand, if you feel the sleepers then its the flanges hitting. You can also fit Markits wheels but the loco won't be a cheap and cheerful "cheapie" any more.
  2. Going back almost to the start. The Wheel hangers are usually available from a couple of specialist dealers on line. The body and coupling rivets have a shouldered boss which takes the coupling, it is thicker on the plastic couplings than on the metal ones, but it does mean you have to use the correct rivet. The alternative is to use a small bolt, maybe 8BA, countersunk downwards with a Romford 1/8" axle bush filed down to take the coupling and a nut on the bottom, but its ugly.
  3. A late friend of mine Michael Carter, used to exhibit a H/D 3 rail Tinplate collection years ago. .I always feel the plastic bodied wagons don't work well with the lithographed tin ones. Its also difficult to match the H/D paint finish on Locos and impossible on rolling stock. Repainted Wrenn bodies on 3 rail chassis always seems to Jar. At speed the later SD6 coaches are a match for anything produced RTR today in the way the the light reflects on the sides and the near flush glazing, and the compensated bogies are streets ahead of the RTR rubbish we buy today. I use the plastic bodied wagons with all sorts of locos , Hattojs , Bachmann, Hornby, Wren etc but have to stuff the non H/D locos with lead to pull a decent length train. Apart from the black under frames the paint can't really be touched up. Poundland spray satin black or Matt black are a good match for H/D black. The tin bodies can be removed from their chassis if you carefully tease the tags straight, you can even re attach them if you are careful. The plastic Vans have the body attached with a self tapping screw and come off easily, the plastic open wagons and the die cast body 16T Mineral have the body attached by the coupling rivet which has to be drilled out and then you can't get new ones to rivet the body back on. I shorten the rivet to just hold the coupling and glue the body back on. You may find a lot of corroded 3 rail wheels and bent axles, and damaged 2 rail wheels. To remove the axles the body has to come off the 4 wheel wagons and the axle hanger tags carefully teased straight. Best to remove all 4 really. Replacement hangers are available but come in two types at least, round hole and elongated hole, ideally don't mix them. The 2 rail wheels wear out, axle ends wear into grooves. 3 rail wheels are direct replacements. 3 rail wheels can often be repaired by straightening the axle and then spinning them in a drill chuck against a piece of emery cloth or a file. There are some Mazak ones highly prized which are rubbish because they disintegrate or get chipped flanges. I have stripped a lot of tatty 3 rail tinplate wagons . I recondition the 3 rail wheels and stick them on eBay, fit 2 rail wheels and use the chassis for mainline or Bachmann bodies for my layout which uses H/D couplings. The Coach bogies have several versions, the later ones are compensated, and I have no idea how to change the wheels. The earlier ones have a single hanger which had a tag which can be eased up without removing the bogies and the wheels dropped out. Now I put Romford top hat pin point bushes in the hangers and file them flush. I can then fit H0 (Lima) wheels, 00 axles are too long, and as Lima wheels are insulated one side I pick up power through the pin points for coach lighting. They run beautifully. I have them under all sorts of Mainline, Ratio, Triang etc bodies. The SD6 coaches are beautiful but too short. They fade horribly so keep them in the dark, Also the roofs warp. I had a brown one which started BR Crimson. The BG stands comparison with the latest RTR. I have one on my fish train. H/D runs beautifully because the wheels are supported across point gaps by the flanges running on the bottom of the point flangeways . The old Duchess is a pathetic performer as standard and greatly benefits from the Wrenn Duchess tender draw bar arrangement. Mine used to manage 3 H/D coaches and now 2 railed and with modified drawbar pulls 8 up a 1 in 30, easily. Watch the power unit, H/D controllers have a great overload cut out. Modern ones have crap polyswitches, and you can easily damage an armature with a heavy load at low speed. If you get any rubbishy items stick them back on eBay cheap and I'll buy them to hack about for my layout!
  4. It is noticeable how short the trains are on these displays where trains run continuously like Pecorama and the Model Shop in Bucfastleigh. There are often similar motors to the "Thomas" motor but lower voltage available on eBay and elsewhere for about 50p each.
  5. I find sliding a steel ruler under the track base and lifting gently will usually lift the track with the pins still in. Be careful with the peco points, free the toe end first or they tend to snap where the tie bar passes through. Streamline track can usually be salvaged, I tend to treat rails and sleeper bases as separate units. Sometimes the rails have solder blobs which cannot be unsoldered, I cut the rails each side of the solder and slide the sleepers off the shorter side. Cut the sleeper base and pop out any damaged sleepers and push the rest up to close the gap, then thread on some more sleepers to fill the length up. I generally scrap any short lengths 9" or less, pull the rails out and save them and save the sleepers separately for repairing longer lengths. Whether using DC or DCC its best to minimise the number of rail joiners, making up lengths from lots of little bits is a good way to get poor running and of course it reduces the number of droppers needed if you wire every bit of track separately for DCC.
  6. A spot of Loctite will stop the screws going walk about. Best of luck with 6 wires and the plug, I think I would settle for just two and have separate sound etc on each car.
  7. You have an enviable space for creating a great realistic main line wayside station, but not a lot of opportunity for running lots of trains simultaneously. The 4ft would give room for four parallel tracks round the dumb bell, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 2ft radius. which would mean you could store 1 train clear of the running line at each end. I suppose you could squeeze in a 4 track main line but with the dumb bell shape that means you would lose the storage loop. Realistically some form of computer control would be necessary to run 4 trains at once. Lines down the other side of the loft would make things a lot easier for multiple tracks. Proper 4 track main line, but still you would need some storage.
  8. I noticed a photo of 63760 taken in 1962 in the current Back Track magazine. It has a vacuum brake hose on the front and another hose drooping down below the buffer beam, steam heat or possibly air brake? The caption says it was an ex ROD 04 converted to 01, (its definitely an 01, outside valve gear etc.) Now I understood the 01 didn't have vacuum brake and that even the ex GC built 04s had their vacuum brakes removed when rebuilt. I can't find any other pictures of an 01 with vacuum fittings in any of my books, I haven't really had a chance to look on line. Can anyone throw any light on this.
  9. I reckon if you shifted the platform roads closer together and widened the inner main platform platform you could get some nice sets of steps in which would disguise the corner and make it look like it was on a straight bit of track with the main buildings above. . see doodle Tracks coming out of the side of the building are a bit more difficult......
  10. Looks like 0 gauge. 3 link couplings. Stolen to order? Stolen by a fellow enthusiast? Bit too distinctive to shift easily. Not exactly easy to get shot of, not like bog standard Hornby 00. I reckon they would need to be repainted, and renumbered to sell on or stripped for spares. Might be in a skip by now if the burglar tried to shift them quickly to non enthusiasts. Its a bit worrying, 20 miles away from me. Still none of my "Collection" is worth nicking.
  11. For some reason the track seems to get much dirtier where sunlight gets to it. The shed has blinds permanently down but there are two high level windows and I noticed that just the tracks where sunlight could get to them in high summer got really filthy where that which stayed dark didn't. This on a mix of steel track and Nickel Silver points. I put up a piece of board to shade it which helped.
  12. If it looks nice in bare brass leave it brass. If its a bit scruffy prime it, if its really scruffy then it has to be BR Blue era matt grime with filthy yellow ends. Don't go for green, Its a sod to do nicely and then there is the question of yellow panels, Most steam era ones would be class 30 with Mirlees power units Green, no yellow panels etc.
  13. I went anyway. With my Son and Father in Law. It was a good show, bit downsized compared to usual. Wide variety of scales gauges and standards of running. Box and the Launceston Narrow gauge were really good, It was just about all over by 3.30 Sunday. Bought some useless stuff I will never get round to using and didn't buy some stuff I should have bought.
  14. You can't stop a thread that easily, they take on a life of their own and continue zombie like until the end of the Interweb, sometimes re surfacing 10 years after the last post.. St Ives was very weird, the front loco came off the train at the loco shed so the second one could pull the up to 12 coach rain into the platform to save length. I believe the train in the loop was not an arrival but was simply shunted into the loop to clear the platform while the locos went back to St Erth for a later arrival. There doesn't appear to be any signal allowing direct access to the loop on the signal box diagram I googled.
  15. I concur, with the addition of advising to keep daylight off the layout if at all possible.
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