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DavidCBroad

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  1. Fits and starts at low speed sound like pickup issues. The replacement CD Motors have a lower current draw so they will suffer even worse from poor pick up. I have been using these motors for well over 10 years, they are great replacements for the cheap and nasty ring fields in Lima power bogies but the Hornby is much better engineered, especially the commutators. Common fault of Hornby Power bogies is the inability to keep the trailing bogie wheels clean enough to give a proper pick up. Most Hornby power bogies have tiny wheels, vastly under scale so they aren't that useful, I have use
  2. That operating well looks far too narrow to me. There is minimal stock storage. That is fine with 1960s trains but 2000s stuff really needs to be put on the layout and not taken back off until it needs servicing in my case 5 years later, otherwise you will break bits off. As a minimal fix I would extend the operating well and designate one side of the layout as scenic and the other as a FY where stock can be uncoupled and moved about with a Loco lift or similar. With diesel haulage a helix or even a ramp from low level storage sidings would be do able, my outside layout has a 1 in 1
  3. Usual problem is lousy wheel profiles and excessive back to back on the wheelsets. I usually go with 14.2mm and a nice sliding fit. As a check roll the wheelset through the point, It should not be possible for the frog side flange to strike the frog as the check rail will be holding the wheels away from the frog. My loft layout hidden siding approach is all Peco cured Electro frog points circa 25 years old and derailments are minimal. The curved crossover on the visible section causes continual derailments mainly because the track is ballasted and the points can't move sideways with tem
  4. I think its standard practice for dolls house electrics. It's got to be a good idea for DCC unless you are really in to drilling holes and soldering droppers while lying on your back under the layout. Insulation is not rocket science when its only 16 volt, bit of clear plastic packaging between layers should get it done. Just make sure there are enough isolatable sections to make fault finding possible.
  5. Concept is sound, space available insufficient. To be honest at 4ft long you don't really have enough length to really run anything in OO even if you used a Triang Perky and 4 wheel Clarrie and Annabel as a "Train" that's 1ft long which doesn't leave a lot of room for points. We pained our baseboard surface grey, White and black poster paint from Poundland mixed into 57 different varieties of grey with hardboard facing so it looks tidy, sliding cupboard doors below to hide some of the junk and the lack of much scenery doesn't bother me. Its about trains..
  6. The brush holders just push in to insulated bushes in the pole pieces . The motor has effectively come apart at the seams, it can be super glued back together but fixing it more securely with some bracketry may be a better alternative. They are pretty awful as tender drive units, smooth but gutless they make reasonable loco chassis and are excellent tender motors for driving loco wheels through drive shafts. However personally I would shorten the armature and use it in an X04 or H/D 1/2" Motor
  7. I reckon its the power unit's overload cut out, probably a polyswitch, the continuous load is too much for it. I would be very careful here, maybe try connecting to the variable (track) output and adjusting the setting so the lights are a lot dimmer. Hopefully this will remain within the cut outs comfort zone. If you substitute a more powerful controller then the whole damned lot might go pop. LEDs also pass more current as they warm up so backing the power off a tad as they get warmer might also help. At least trying this won't actually cost anything I can only assume the L
  8. Ah memories, the old diesel depot. Sadly last week the diesel depot was but a distant memory, buildings razed and just a 47 and a 37 stood cold and forlorn among a sea of red coaches while a Black 5 and K1 were being prepared for the days work.
  9. Flexi will bend to 8" radius circle on its own, a circle is the natural shape for it to adopt when the ends are brought together. the only issue will be the single join, I think I would fishplate it as normal 90 degree not staggered and solder some code 75 or 100 or even sheet brass to the sides of the rails to stop the fishplated joint coming apart or causing a dog leg.
  10. It's quite normal for published trackplans to not work. Both in Anyrail and the real world. Allow an extra 10% length and width and you should be all right as long as the track pieces used are still available, lots of C.J.Freezers plans used curved diamonds which are no longer available. Set track is ok for getting accurate dog leg free sharp curves and straight straights. The se track points are OK out of box for running Thomas and Perky around the dining room table or floor and for running pre 2000 stock but for serious modelling they waste width and are a constant cause of derailments
  11. Generally you get one chance to get the quartering right with a Mainline split chassis loco, Once the wheels have been turned on the axles they will continue to slip in service. Crankpins have to be at 90 degrees to each other on the same axle and offset the same way on each. The split chassis also have to be aligned accurately, they often get out of line which leads to really bad running not unlike quartering being out. I generally sight through the spokes when quartering locos but its a bit of an art with judgenent of what is half a spoke or even a quarter of the gap between spokes.
  12. Sounds like worn traction tyres to me, loose in their grooves and slipping on the wheels. My Hornby 47 was an old ring field monstrosity but with a 28XX tender drive and Flying Scotsman tender wheels in the trailing bogie it became acceptable. It hauls 13 boges around 2ft radius curves and prefers to run power bogie trailing as a 6-6-0 not an 0-6-6.
  13. Check out whether a epacement garage will need planning permission, some do some don't. A wooden building would seem to be a good idea, we are just having a stable built as a storage unit, 24 X12ft circa £3000 erected, The key is to have a standard size building, provided by a firm for whom providing and erecting are everyday jobs. Get a non standard size or have to have a new base built and costs rocket, I think our base is circa £1500. Your local bodge builder will quote to do it cheaper, except he will hit an expensive and completely unforseen snag or twenty which will bump the bi
  14. Nice bit of modern image, taken today 8/6/2021 Near Glenfinnan on Mallaig line.
  15. Can't wait for Hornby or Bachmann to make a repica, should sell like hot bricks on a welk stall.
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