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DavidCBroad

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    Cotswolds England

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  1. Oh well. lets hope the Bachmann 94XX mechanism is more reliable than the Bachmann 57XX version in our Limbach 94XX the motor of which expired. No sad loss as it had rice pudding skin removal issues and the Hornby/Farish/Airfix 5pole/Romford version just relentlessly gets on with the job of running trains.
  2. This wire snipping comes from scale live frog points where the gap between wheel back and open point blade is so tight the flange can touch the point blade while the tyre is on the rail at opposite polarity and short it out. It can happen even on code 100 with DC where it produces sparks and on DCC where everything shuts down. Snipping the wires and having the feed to the blades always at the same polarity to the adjacent rail solves this issue. This needs doing before the point is used or the shorting can damage the blade pivot and blade contact. If you switch the frog with a separate
  3. To add to Pete's advice, why not get a job lot of broken points and practice ballasting them, I have had so little success that I abandoned trying to ballast points as I end up gumming up the blades or insulating bits of rail which shouldn't be insulated! Underlay starts looking like a great alternative especially for points. The old Peco code 100 was designed for late 1950s era TRI-ANG flanges. Triang and H/D are poles apart profile wise, H/D like code 75 track, a lot of Triang and some 1970 on Hornby can't cope at all. Peco code 100 has a deep groove between the check rail and runni
  4. That is seriously impressive. How much of a Princess did you use?
  5. Your 2nd Radius is likely to cause more grief than the choice between code 100 and code 75. There are quite a few post 2000 RTR locos which are marginal on 2nd radius, My 64XX can't get round, the Hattons 14XX struggles and the Q1 shorts out. 64 and 14XX are fine on 3rd. I have a few code 75 points and Hornby Dublo seems to be fine through them as do pin point axle Triang wheels, in fact they run better than on code 100 as the flanges run along the bottom of the flangeways, Triang locos needs re wheeling except the B12/ Hall etc take Hornby County / Castle tyres on their original whee
  6. A lot of US locos use a cardan shaft between the motor and gearbox and as the Buhlers I have acquired have spur gears I suspect the motors don't have the sort of thrust washers on the armature to allow them to run with a worm drive. I would mount the motor using the boss around the armature bearings and use a drive shaft of some sort either a short one or stick it in the tender and drive the loco wheels through a shaft. You could mount the motor in the loco and drive the tender wheels, if you wanted something different. Letting the motor move a bit in the mounting might help start
  7. Is your layout room damp? I have loads of Super 4 in my loft, some from my own childhood layout and very little has corroded, and that which has came from eBay in job lots. The track which has corrosion rapidly corrodes again after being cleaned. I believe the track had a coating which was worn off by cleaning with abrasives. I only use it for floor layouts when on holiday but now I simply discard the corroded track. Usual problem is loose corroded fishplates, I think Peco O gauge fit but I have not actually tried it. I did lay some previously corroded Super 4 in the garden and i
  8. I can't see any value in the bottom right siding, too short and close to the edge I would have thought. The point made by Keith about control is really more a DCC thing than DC. You can plug a DC controller into a Stereo jack plug or six anywhere on the layout and watch and operate from anywhere on the layout. You can do the same with DCC controlling from your phone but most folk don't and end up with something like mission control from the Thunderbirds TV program of the 1960. It needs thinking about or you will get a lot of exercise and or fed up walking around the layout incessantly
  9. Couple of wooden clothes pegs screwed to a bit of plywood possibly with a shallow groove to hold the wire should do the trick. Personally I reckon the £1 that I paid for a "Helping Hand" in Poundland was one of my best buys ever. Its just so versatile as you can configure it in so many weird ways.
  10. 30 to 40 miles is stretching it a bit for tank locos, however there were numerous cases of tanks on long runs, the Clyde Coast boat trains being the most obvious parallel with Caley 4-6-2 Tanks and GSWR 4-6-4 Tanks giving way to LMS 2-6-4T and BR Standard 4MT 2-6-4Ts. NB wise they had 4-4-0T and 4-4-2T locos replaced largely with V1 and V3 2-6-2T on the best services. GWR wise a 51XX 2-6-2T would be a likely candidate as they worked Taunton, Minehead but on that length of run you would expect them to be turned to face smokebox first after each run. The Southern had 2 X LBSC 4-6-2Ts and seve
  11. It all sounds horribly complicated. I would use a microswitch, or two, that is a switch which has a very abrupt over centre action and can snap over abruptly near the centre of its travel, not necessarily a small switch. For DCC 5 amp should be good. Wire board A through microswitch A so there is no feed down one of the two Bus wires when the flap is up and there is feed with it down and do the same with board B and switch B. All the electrics remain on the relevant boards . Springy strips and bolts are fine for exhibitions but get tired far more quickly than decent microswitches
  12. Or maybe think of it like building a new high speed cross channel Ferry for Dover - Calais in 1941.
  13. Watch out for the tender drive frame, I had a chinese 9F one crumble almost to dust, biggest chunk was about 2mm square.
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