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DavidCBroad

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  1. If it has sentimental value then an upgrade is a good move. Our Bachmann 64X doesn't like 2nd radius curves while the Hornby is happy on 1st and even 13" radius curves so the equation isn't as completely black and white as one being better than the other. I have a detailed Hornby 8750 with Romford wheels which looks the part until it is seen with a Bachmann pannier. . I did a 64XX conversion from the Hornby 57XX which ended up being scrapped when the Bachmann version came out, it was too wide, and the wrong wheelbase compared to the Bachmann, and succumbed when I tried to fillet the thing by sawing it length ways to narrow the body. It now has a Bachmann body and the chassis with 5 ppole Hornby Dublo 1/2" motor is being adapted to fit. The Chassis should be 7ft 4 +7ft 4, Triang is 8ft + 8ft 2 and the 57XX/2251/2721 etc 7ft 3 +8ft 3. Moving the splashers is not easy, mine had the splashers moved, tanks and cab lowered, bunker to cab curve added, and Romfords fitted and though intended as an Auto engine it was so sure footed it spent most of its time shunting. The Triang Ivatt Chassis is a lot nearer the correct wheelbase. 64XX has a prominent side tank support in front of the leading splasher while the57XX has a bracket on the smokebox side. The early 64XX also had a curve between bunker and cab rear which the last 10 64XX which followed the first 74XX did not feature
  2. Interesting, were any of them sold for Model Railways? If they are for computers, printers, phone chargers etc then I would expect the voltage to be somewhere close to that stated on the label. My collection of model railway power units shows even more variation than Teaky's, 21/ 24 volts off load, and my car battery chargers deliver around 14 volts on the 12 volt setting, measured by a variety of electronic and good old moving coil voltmeters. Junctionmad is absolutely correct. We had a lot of trouble in the early 1980s with flickering dashboard lights on some cars, it was really annoying rapid changes in intensity. Initially it was on Magnetti Marelli alternators, we couldn't find anything wrong, voltage was fine, bang in the middle of the 12 volt range of 13.8 to 14.2 volts in the specification as the charging voltage so the customer had to put up with it. Later Lucas started selling alternators of similar design under their brand and my MG Maestro had one and lo and behold flickering dash lights, headlights you name it. My voltmeter showed no faults, too well damped, so after a short while I binned it and fitted the old style Lucas alternator from an Ambassador and it was transformed. It must have been very high peak voltage, obviously, (or not) cars don't run at a fixed number of cycles as the number of cycles/ pulses is derived from an alternator with an operating speed range of from memory 2000 to 20 000 rpm, geared around 3:1 so its charges from tick over around 650/ 850 rpm. We used to test them by switching every electrical thing on and seeing if it charged at tick over. If the voltage was 13 and rising it was good, falling was a fail. Likewise exceeding 14.2 at high revs off load was a fail. To reiterate, a fully charged 12 volt car battery is around 14 volts. A fully charged 1.5 volt rechargeable battery is somewhere round 1.8 volts and, your computer 12 volt circuit will be 12 volts.
  3. My experience with DC is that tender pickups are a waste of time/ damned nuisance. However DCC experts always seem to advocate extra pickups so I hesitate to suggest deleting them on a DCC model. However it comes down to personal preference and I prefer 40% better haulage as in my County for instance now pulls 5 coaches instead of 3 up a 1 in 36. This is some way short of the 12 coaches up a 1 in 38 the full size locos were capable of.
  4. 100% of the "12 volt DC" controllers with "16 volt AC" uncontrolled outputs I have ever seen, Hornby Dublo, Triang, Hammant and Morgan, OnTrack etc have the "16 volt" AC uncontrolled output rectified via a bridge rectifier to provide the "12 volt DC" That "12 volts" is often 21 or 24 volts off load. Don't confuse this model railway "12 volts" with Computer 12 volts which generally is 12 volts or automotive 12 volts which is typically 13.8 to 14.2 volts The OP has no mention of 12 volts so If the turntable is for a model railway it should be designed for what could easily be up to 20 volts A "12 volt DC" wall wart designed for model railway use may be fine, I wouldn't use a scalextric power unit, If cost is an issue you could try a single diode in the feed and run it at half wave, it might turn at a slower, more realistic, speed. I await a learned dissertation on this suggestion which will surely follow, Absolutely NOT. You need a DC output. Don't use a 12 volt AC wall wart, it simply won't work. I think he means "Just buy a 12V DC wallwart" plug in power supply."
  5. That looks to me like it would be OK on 2ft radius. I have an old Triang Winston Churchill with a closer coupled tender than that which copes with 2ft radius Peco points, and has scraped round 2nd radius in its time.
  6. Feed the turntable through a bridge rectifier, they usually cost about £1 from a decent electrical supply shop, or make one from 4 X 1N400 diodes, look bridge rectifier up on line for instructions. Diode drop, the voltage drop across a diode, drops 16V AC to around 12V DC. If you get a wall wart make sure it is DC, a 12 volt AC one will be no better than your existing 16volt AC supply
  7. We had this with the 9F, the tender chassis had Mazak rot and had swollen so the insulated wheels shorted against the chassis. We crumbled the chassis into more or less dust, binned the wiring and fitted a Triang Hornby class 47 trailing bogie chassis which was a direct replacement. On the Black 5 removing the tender pickups and wiring increased the haulage by 40% so unless you are using DCC ripping the lot out is an excellent idea. We don't have a Hornby 8F, our H/D 8Fs are only 60 years old and are not due for replacement yet, they also haul 40 wagons where Hornby 28XX etc struggle with 20.
  8. It would not have been easy to get at the sloping bits to clean them from ground level, presumably it was based at a steam shed, Southall? and wouldn't have had shed days for boiler wash outs etc like the steam locos so the opportunities for cleaning were limited. That said the prototype photo has red toward the cab windows tapering to grime towards the ground where the model appears to be black, I believe the parcels car did a Southall - Paddington shuttle which would have been a real pain to operate with a loco and stock if it was out of service, another incentive to keep it moving. A Parcels Autotrailer with or without an Auto fitted Condensing Metro Tank would be a good model to bamboozle the know it alls with. Just a wicked thought.
  9. Probably a bit of overkill a circular table, but cut away most of the middle to leave a few spokes and a centre to mount a pivot and you could hang it on a wall when not in use. You could also power the table to revolve at the same speed as the test loco travels, that would be brilliant for trouble shooting. Long term this is one of my devious plans which has yet to be tried but still in the planning stage.
  10. Only if the chassis halves are not insulated Metal chassis halves with split axle wheels produces a very nearly friction free power collecting wagon, just make sure the chassis halves are insulated from each other.
  11. In 1918 the Midland already had a fabulous new mixed traffic loco in the brand new "Super" (heated) 4F 0-6-0 having tested the two prototypes for 6 years before starting series production in 1917. A loco destined to remain in production for some 20 ish years, twice as long as the Crab, and 775 units so why would they want a 2-6-0? Still the Fowler Mogul would make a nice loco and one Bachmann are not likely to bring out in 00 RTR before you finish scratch building one.
  12. Its an 8ft bufferbeam the same as 57XX etc The cab steps are the same as a 57XX at 8ft 7" but the cab is 8ft 6" wide as against 8ft for the 57XX /66XX /d51XX. The 94XX is noticeably wider than 57XX panniers the 94XX as wide as the tender flare on Collett 4000 gallon tenders, while the 57XX is the same width as the tank below the flare on the Collett 4000 gallon tender.
  13. The Buckdale method shown in the video looks good, foam board should be easy to curve roughly to shape and the Wills edging should take out any irregularities. The big mistake many / most modellers make is getting the platforms too high. Generally passenger platforms don't exceed 3ft to the top of the surface, many are much lower especially back in the 1930s and buffers centres are nominally 3ft 5 1/2 " inches so your platforms should be noticeably below buffer centre lines, with old small buffer heads the whole buffer head should be above the platform. Docks not used for passenger trains, often mistaken for Bays used by passenger trains were often higher to make unloading vans and wagons easier up to 3ft 6" and even more. I take buffer centre lines as a template. As did Triang Hornby. I have a chosen Hornby Dublo 00 wagon with buffers on one end only for a template, and currently arrange platforms 2mm below the buffer centres, fractionally below 12mm. Triang / Triang-Hornby did the same but they raised their buffers to suit the tension lock couplers and also used "Underlay" for their overscale track so their platforms ended up much too high for scale stock and scale track. The mistake I made years ago was using 1/2" timber and laying ply as a surface. It really annoys me being too high but I can't face ripping either the platforms up to lower them or the track to raise it.
  14. Yes the solder will oxidise and the connection fail unless you use some decent non EU approved solder. My experience over 25 plus years is peco railjoiners split and fail and mine don't take traction current. N/S Rails oxidise and cause derailments unless the "Gauge corner" the inside angles between rails is kept clean.
  15. Most controller have a dead spot at the end or centre of the control knob travel so the transformer windings are isolated from the outputs. Morley ( and OnTrack) is different, while There is a click at centre of the pot it does not disconnect the outputs from the transformer and that causes problems if two Moleys or one Morley and another controller are connected to the same rail. With every other controller I know of switching the knob to "Off" isolates the transformer from the rails, with a Morley it remains connected.
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