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  • Location
    New York, United States
  • Interests
    Steam engines, British & American trains, Star Wars, and generally building things.

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  1. For new builds, its definitely due to the density of the wood, paint, and assorted hardware. Remember, as "standard" as many wagons were, there was always variation. Rather easy to forget such variation can naturally occur in our world of computerized mass production. Even in my line of work, our products often vary in weight by a pound or two, and they only weigh sub 100lb! Once you scale that up to a few tons, its not hard to see the range that's possible.
  2. I solely use enamels for painting have NEVER had issues like frosting. I use Tamiya, Testors, and Rustoleum (IIRC) brand matt and gloss aerosols to great results. Definitely do light coats though. I once laid a very heavy coat of matt onto some coupling rods and had to repaint them due to a light frosting.
  3. Take the rods off, does it free roll freely and straight without wobble? If it curves to one side much, thats a sure sign the wheelbase doesnt match the rods.
  4. I think I may have the record for amount of time spent in Penn on this forum, and the description of "busiest" is quite fitting.
  5. Probably why they built dedicated manure wagons. Mustve not been too fun unloading them as they had no doors!.
  6. Christ...my companys overzealous web filtering system is blocking RMwebs "new content" stream as gambling.  And Im not allowed to petition it...

    1. gordon s

      gordon s

      May be related to another post I have just seen and reported.....

  7. What kind of figure? Ive glued figures in with plain PVA glue before. If you dont knock it, itll stay in place fairly ok but removal is clean and doesnt leave marks. Or if youre not afraid of drilling into the footplate, you could mount figures on pegs and then theyll be pretty sturdy.
  8. Ideally before I begin this little micro layout (if it ever even happens) Ill rebuild the points to have more reliable switch rails. That last point though is a concern for all small scale models and why I will never understand why some people on this forum will always insist that you should use as few power feeds as possible whenever the question of wiring comes up.
  9. Ive yet to actually USE the Shinohara points on a layout and I havent any Minitrains stock. What Im planning is all scratchbuilt so stock is irrelevant. However Modern US wheels went through the points perfectly fine when I was just testing them. And one of those nice micro Japanese mechanisms went through perfectly as well under power once I corrected the BTB on one of the axles. I think the Shinohara point is a little off on the curve around the frog, but not enough to foul properly adjusted wheelsets. But I will have to modify the switch rails on the points to give a little more definite contact between switch and frog. Not pleased by the "fishplate barely holding the two rails in alignment" method they used.
  10. I think the trading standards bit. Regardless, I dont think the "liberating" bit would go well for any party involved. Especially if there is no bits to "liberate".
  11. Just messing about with Google Maps, I found something amusing. An almost perfect inglenook. https://www.google.com/maps/@42.6653051,-73.739102,143a,35y,270h,39.53t/data=!3m1!1e3
  12. May be wrong, but I think I remember similar happenings 3 Coopercraft threads ago, or there about. Didnt exactly go well to my memory.
  13. Looking at that video, it looks more like the wheel BTB doesnt match the points, If your check rails and BTB are properly proportioned, you should never be jumping the frog. If its the check rails at fault, a sliver of plasticcard or paper glued to them to beef them up may help. A bonus for minitrains points is their small radius at only 5". Shinohara HO2-1/2 points were 6" radius at the smallest, but finding them now that Shinohara have closed down will be tricky. Ive got a few stashed for a future micro layout. Peco points are at a minimum 9" radius (also dont look very narrow gauge-y)
  14. Well thats a shame. NWSL is a well respected name. Hopefully someone wants to buy it.
  15. For renumbering something at home, its much easier to find transfers or decals and apply those yourself. Tampo printing isnt practical for single home use. I am unaware of any single modeller who uses tampo printing for models.
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