Spitfire2865

It is the combined hardbacked version. Its a deep brown cover under the jacket. Published 1986. Unfortunately when I purchased it, it wasnt very clear which version it was. The trouble of buying online from across an ocean I suppose.

I have a copy of that book, of what I believe to be the later combined printing, and there is hardly anything Pre 1930s which is what I had bought the book for originally when I was still building 4mm. So clearly Im missing something.

Ok clearly Im not in the know. Where is one to find details of GWR wagons in the Pre 20th century period? The book Ive got has barely a mention of anything prewar. Certainly nothing as useful as diagram numbers or drawings.

Well once the wagon is empty, theres not much that can fall on you being underneath it. The doors could "easily" be opened from the side.

Shame it cant be played outside the UK. And I dont have a VPN.

Have you checked the motors run disconnected from their gearboxes? Lubrication has not seized? Pickups making proper connection to the wheels? Wheels clean?

You do realize ads on youtube are a necessary evil as they continuously run at a significant loss year after year? Yes its poor programming to have them in no way geographically tied (unless in your efforts to hide all ads you have turned off geo-locating in browser OR are using a VPN).

Youre asking a foreign reseller to fix your items? Or how to fix your items? I can assure you, whatever customer service representative you spoke to has NO idea how model trains work and would NEVER offer advice on repairing it yourself. Thats something the manufacturer deals with. The Trainz CS is to deal with business and basic product questions. Now if you wanted a warranty, then their policy is fairly clear. 30 days since purchase, or its not their fault. Youve had the product for a year, and presumably used it for that year. Whos to say you didnt do something to make it stop working? After a year, thats not the fault of the reseller. They didnt sell faulty goods as it worked after you received it and continued to work through the warranty period. Youre asking some random CS rep information that they dont know, NO WONDER they couldnt help you. Frankly your complaint is ridiculous.

Well there WERE Live steam floor toys made and sold back in the day, usually spiraling in a circle while you hope it doesnt catch on the curtains. So live steam indoors isnt unheard of, nor particularly dangerous if youre careful about it. As for firing it, is there room under the boiler for a solid fuel burner to slide in?

Its how Amtrak has run all its services in the US. You book your specific train and route and you are guaranteed* a seat. (*train may be oversold, Amtrak® does not guarantee passengers a seat for the duration of their trip.)

For new builds, its definitely due to the density of the wood, paint, and assorted hardware. Remember, as "standard" as many wagons were, there was always variation. Rather easy to forget such variation can naturally occur in our world of computerized mass production. Even in my line of work, our products often vary in weight by a pound or two, and they only weigh sub 100lb! Once you scale that up to a few tons, its not hard to see the range that's possible.

I solely use enamels for painting have NEVER had issues like frosting. I use Tamiya, Testors, and Rustoleum (IIRC) brand matt and gloss aerosols to great results. Definitely do light coats though. I once laid a very heavy coat of matt onto some coupling rods and had to repaint them due to a light frosting.

If you play the .99 game, expect to lose sometimes. Ive had items that did not achieve prices I was hoping for, but that doesnt mean I cancel a sale. They won it, they paid for it, and I must abide by my agreement with eBay. Dont have to be happy but I DO have to ship.

Take the rods off, does it free roll freely and straight without wobble? If it curves to one side much, thats a sure sign the wheelbase doesnt match the rods.

Please dont use eBay again. If you cant be bothered to ship the items you list and sell, dont waste everyones time!

I think I may have the record for amount of time spent in Penn on this forum, and the description of "busiest" is quite fitting.

Ive done that as a seller before. Around christmas time, item wasnt particularly popular. One bid and a few days later I get a message asking if I could end it early as they bought it for a christmas present. I got my money, they got the gift to give to someone. Win win.

Ebay makes it very clear to both buyer and seller that using the service acts as a contract. To list you accept ebay will take their portion of the costs for hosting you and that ebay will hold you accountable for shipping items bought legitimately. To buy you accept that your bid is a contract and can only be taken back if all parties agree to it. As your wife agreed to the cancellation, there is no fault. If she did not agree to it, the seller would have been forced to ship the item legally won or face damages to their reputation. Still, its a pretty thing to do, list something, sell it, then decide against actually losing it. Perhaps it would have been a good lesson for the sellers daughter that not all decisions can be taken back so easily.

Probably why they built dedicated manure wagons. Mustve not been too fun unloading them as they had no doors!.

What kind of figure? Ive glued figures in with plain PVA glue before. If you dont knock it, itll stay in place fairly ok but removal is clean and doesnt leave marks. Or if youre not afraid of drilling into the footplate, you could mount figures on pegs and then theyll be pretty sturdy.

Sellers ARE able to select at what minimum price offers can be given. However I find it more and more people will not respond to counteroffers once they submit an honestly stupid price. If you cant be bothered to reject, thats a block from me. I just yesterday had an offer on an item listed as auction with a $18 starting price. I get an offer for $10, I counter with $16, and am ignored. Later in the day, it sells for the opening bid by someone else.

Ideally before I begin this little micro layout (if it ever even happens) Ill rebuild the points to have more reliable switch rails. That last point though is a concern for all small scale models and why I will never understand why some people on this forum will always insist that you should use as few power feeds as possible whenever the question of wiring comes up.

Ive yet to actually USE the Shinohara points on a layout and I havent any Minitrains stock. What Im planning is all scratchbuilt so stock is irrelevant. However Modern US wheels went through the points perfectly fine when I was just testing them. And one of those nice micro Japanese mechanisms went through perfectly as well under power once I corrected the BTB on one of the axles. I think the Shinohara point is a little off on the curve around the frog, but not enough to foul properly adjusted wheelsets. But I will have to modify the switch rails on the points to give a little more definite contact between switch and frog. Not pleased by the "fishplate barely holding the two rails in alignment" method they used.

I think the trading standards bit. Regardless, I dont think the "liberating" bit would go well for any party involved. Especially if there is no bits to "liberate".