kasyjones

Cannot go wrong with "How to" DVDs from Tony Wright.................volume 1 available here, volume 2 available via google https://www.videoscene.co.uk/locomotive-kit-building-part-1-right-track-1 also check You tube for excellent builds with https://www.youtube.com/@cb01ttr

To members who have a Class 14 and wish to get at the cab to put figures in BUT body will not release from Chassis. It should be straight forward, remove 4 outer screws as per instructions in model and wiggle it free.............BUT as in my case, this is/was not the case? I jest you not, I struggled for 6-7 hours to jiggle free the chassis and it was NOT having it. So, decided to remove LONG bonnet to find out the reason it would not drop. Photos enclosed. On removing the bonnet, a gearbox lay shaft had drifted out of the chassis onto the body, effectively locking the body and making it impossible to remove body, pushed the shaft back into chassis and chassis dropped from body. This was my 2nd Class 14 as the first was defective due to parts coming loose on loco due to lack of glue.........advised Chris at Minerva of problem told me to return it for a replacement(they refunded postage of £15 for return)......no replacements available but brand new body fitted. Then had the fault where impossible to remove body, Chris said wiggle it. as reported above I found my own solution......sent Chris the photos and what the problem was, He mentioned in passing due to my drastic action, warranty now void!!! But, he did help out by sending replacement parts for the ones that I had broken in effecting the repair on my class 14 free of charge. Warranty was void anyway as painted cab correct colour.....Railmatch Sherwood Green with correct transfers from Railtec and crew from Modelu

Thanks to F-Unit Mad and Paul for there input into the fault and access to my loco Much appreciated Raymond

Due to change of server, most photos on this topic long gone. Can anybody offer advice on how to remove body from chassis? Spoken to Chris at Minerva and read instructions, they say, remove 4 x screws at end of body and body drops out............Chris tells me you have to stand it on its buffers and wiggle it out, so far, nothing has worked, trying to fit Modelu crew and cannot get at the cab without removing body. The body appears Jammed at one end and will not budge. Chassis drops out on short end but reluctant to release from long end. Chris says that the body must come out equally, both ends together........tried everything, something is stopping the chassis dropping out, can feel it jamming on something - loco does have sound and speakers, wondering if its jamming on these. Any help I would be most grateful Raymond

Try this previous article:

Hello Andy...............perhaps this can help

Many thanks for the replies guys, nice to know so much expertise is available at the touch of a button. I did forget to mention it was an O gauge loco, but being as I included Dapol in the title I assumed that everyone would realise it was O gauge as they make the only RTR Class 08 even though kits are available. Spamcan and Dave John.........thanks for your input, from various threads on here and members mentioning those inductors by name I reckoned they were inductors, although resisters did cross my mind and your input to me confirmed it, however I did think it a simple circuit, but mention of a fault after the filter sounds complicated so I will need more thought into the repair. Once I found the fault Phil, I contacted DCC for a replacement board......as mentioned in my intro, it arrived within 24 hours........just had my first glimpse of it and appears a repair may be out of the question as the new board requires me to transfer the cab switch from the old board across to new board - which is not a problem. See photos of old and new board

I am not sure if this is in the right place, but hopefully mods will correct my mistake. A Dapol class 08 Diesel Shunter that I have has a serious fault? It will not run due to burnt out Inductors on the PCB.............Not really into electrics, fantastic at soldering, but also colour blind!!!! You work out the size of the inductors by checking the colour of the bands on the Inductor............as I said earlier...........I am colour Blind and doesnt help at all. Can one of you electricians tell me what part I am looking to buy and where from I would be most grateful. Also what would be helpful is the possible cause of the fault? I bought the Class 08 sometime ago knowing it was a none runner and was hoping it was a bad solder joint or broken wire, etc, etc I have tested it and it runs with wires direct to motor............I do have a replacement part to replace it with(New PCB cost £30 from DCC and was delivered within 24 hours - very impressed)but I would like to see if I can repair it and keep as a spare. I enclose a picture of burnt out part - what could be the cause? A spike or a surge perhaps. I do have a rolling road, but not a layout.........at 74 years old to late to build a layout, I just like repairing Model Locos and displaying them........this will be my second Class 08 to go with my Little Locos Class 15, Class 17 Clayton, Class 05 and Dapol Pannier all memories from 84E/2A 21A in my younger years

True John, many, many variations, especially as a lot of those Presflos were recycled for other work Incidentally John, loved that sheet of Blue Circle transfers that you sent me. They went on a treat to my JLTRT Presflos

For an idea on the various liveries you cannot go wrong checking out this site..................owner is also member of the site I believe https://www.ellisclarktrains.co.uk/collections/presflos

bump

My O Gauge Class 15 is in need of a crew.....anybody know how to remove the cab from the body? Does it involve breaking glued joints or is it a matter of just removing screws(which I can see no sign off)