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  • Location
    Near the City Ground
  • Interests
    Daybrook. Colwick mpd.

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twiggyforest2's Achievements



  1. Hello Michael, Yes I did mean the LNER GC C14 can I order 2 when you have some available. Regards John
  2. Hi Michael, is the C14 kit available or if not can I put my name down for one. Regards John
  3. Hi Michael, is the C14 kit available or if not can I put my name down for one. Regards John
  4. Thanks for the update, the email address on the website still says @btinternet. Once more into the black hole of the internet. Thanks John
  5. Hi all, Has any one knowledge as whether Walsworth models,Telford are still trading, I wish to purchase a couple of their GNR J15 loco kits. Have been trying to contact by phone but always engaged and the link for the email address seems broken.Any help/advise would be gratefully received. Regards John
  6. Try Gibbs and Dandy, Queens Drine ind estate, Longwall Ave, Nottingham. I purchased some from there a while ago. Regards John
  7. Hi Bertie I am very intrested in your comment re ballrace bearings for the axleboxs, do you have a link regarding the supplier of same Regards John
  8. A1 models has re-released the etches for the prototype Deltic. John was at the Nottingham show last weekend, the etches contain the cant rail, bodyside grills and roof fans and grills also. Cost £10 which I think is fair value to inprove the look of the kit. A1 website A1modelsuk.com
  9. Hi, approx a year ago I sent a 90% built High Level Black Hawthorn chassis/motor to a gentleman called Adrian Coombs trading as Newport City models. I have trided to contact Adrian by email and phone but have had no reply, do any of the RMweb family know if Adrian is still trading or has a address for him so I can send a snail mail letter (just to say I find Royal Mail very efficent). Regards John
  10. There was a R1 loco kit advertised by Zenith Models a few years ago but unfortunately the gentleman passed away before it was released. The guy at CSP (Roger Slade) had a chassis and a test etch of the body which a friend of mine acquired and built a beautiful model. Bill Bedford once advertised what loco kits people wanted and I think I was the only one to show an interest. If you want a couple of kits and I want 2/3 that's 5 towards the project towards the total Bill needs to make it viable. Regards John
  11. Fettling to get the buffers to fit, I have used a fairly thick cyanoacrylate to give me time to adjust parts before they set. Be careful when fitting the buffers that you do not get glue on the shafts, did not do it this time but like most of us had done it before. Axle box/springs fitted, used same wire supplied with the kit as the cross shaft(?) making sure the 2 brake mouldings are attached to the wire. On the brass etch there are 2 pieces with 2 half etched lines that need folding up and attaching to the chassis around the 2 pieces that are the actuating levers with the brake shoes on.This photo shows better what I was trying to say, maybe the brass piece could have come slightly more towards the middle. Have given it a quick spray, will allow to dry 3 or 4 days then give it a identity, do not know what yet think I will ask GNRS members for help. Really enjoyed building this, kit was very good, all the parts fitted well just a pain getting rid of all the flash, but you are warned of this before starting.
  12. Be careful, the resin seems to go "floppy" very quickly even when the water is hot but you can still put your hands,
  13. Thanks to every one who has replied to my post. Reading your post Miss Prism, if I were to cut the single length beam in the centre would that solve the problem or do I cause more hassle than it is worth. As I stated in my first post I am using on SMP 00 code 75 track and hand built points and on the wagon I have built I am not having any problems John
  14. All 4 bearing holders fitted and chassis placed in body to make sure everything fitted. Body right way up. You will notice on the solebar there are 2 pairs of indentations, 1 under the centre of the drop down door which is for the bump stop to fit into, the second pair of indentations are to the right of the solebar for the brake lever support to fit in. On the opposite solebar there are 3 pairs of indentations the one pair on the left MUST be filled in as it is a mistake. The body was slightly bowed so following Bills instructions (Yes Bill Bedford does instructions) I put it in a bowl of hot water, be careful as the resin go's pliable very quickly, remove from water and gently ease into correct shape. Parts removed from fret, brake shoes and bar, bump stop, brake lever support and brake levers. Wheel bearings fitted, right hand axle box, bump stop and brake lever fitted. Notice the 2 indentations on the left of the sole bar, there will be filled before painting. I found that the rear of the axle boxes had to have quite a lot of material removed to allow the bearings to move freely. Hope to complete the body and chassis later today. John
  15. I have recently received a Bill Bedford kit for a Great Northern 4 plank wagon. This is the first kit I have built in resin and thought I would give a blow by blow account. This is what you get in the box Brass chassis etch, resin wagon body. resin fret containing axle boxes and other chassis components, wire and steel buffer heads and springs I have decided to built the chassis first as Bill uses the csb method for compensation, as I am building in 00 I personally do not normally use compensation. Chassis partly bent up prior to soldering. Bearing holders and springy wire Chassis soldered up and 2 bearings attached Enough for tonight, will post more another day John
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