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Yardman

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  • Website URL
    http://www.a19modelrailwayclub.org

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  • Location
    East Boldon, Tyne & Wear
  • Interests
    BR, OO
    American HO, G.
    Electronics

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  1. From what I can see here dropping the lever will pull the brakes off not put them on.
  2. 60532 was effectively a preserved locomotive when it was altered and doesn't really count. The dreaded health and safety had come into play by this point. Once BR disposed of locomotives anything could happen to them. You cannot rely on preserved locomotives for detail accuracy, unless you are modelling a preserved loco. I refer to my earlier comment of working from a photo of your chosen prototype.
  3. Moving the top lamp bracket was mainly on the ex-LMR locomotives and Standards. They had overhead wires first. I don't know of any ex LNER locos that had brackets moved. All photos I have of NE steam carried top brackets to the end of steam. As always go from photos of your chosen prototype for guidance.
  4. Yes, Some LED's have resistors built in and are known as 12volt LED's , 5volt LED's etc. but a standard LED needs a series resistor. A 1k or 2k resistor is a good ball park figure to start with. If you are just putting them acrross the track you will also need a series Diode to prevent reverse voltage from destroying your LED's. I take it you are on analogue control? The LED's will only work when the track polarity is the right direction. You can just use a lamp.
  5. It all depends how accurate you want to be. All photos can suffer from lens distortion, focal length changes and distortion due to perspective. If there is a known dimension in the photo such as a building brick you can count them up and have a reasonable idea of the size of a structure. Other known factors like wheel diameter can be a help. A lot depends on what your photo is like and if you are building something from scratch or just adding details to a model.
  6. You need to re-gear it so it runs 10mph faster.
  7. You only need one risistor in the common lead for Bi-colour LED's. I take it these are common anode devices? Common positive. You need common anode for DCC. The common then goes to the DCC blue wire and the cathodes go to yellow and white wires.
  8. Yes all signals work, driven by servos, automatically controlled via a computer. More photos and video on this link. http://a19modelrailwayclub.org/layouts/alwinton/
  9. Its perfectly feasible to fit LEDs to 4mm signals. The signals shown here have two LEDs for each arm. One showing through the spectacle and one to the rear for the back blinder. Ones for a calling on arm have three LED's the third one has a “C” decal applied that shows when the arm is raised. I wire the LED's for each arm in series and then add a suitable resistor to limit current. All LED's are surface mount types. The hardest part is getting the wires up inside the lattice posts. The post is brass and this is used for the common return for all LEDs. The junction signal shown has a total of 12 LED's installed.
  10. True Jim, its just that this forum has a nasty habit of drifting off topic and never answering the original question. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is it is quite common for the cranes to have rail clamps to clamp the crane in position for loading/unloading together with screw down hand brakes on the track. Tony
  11. I'm not talking about that crane in particular, which is obviously a very old crane and nowhere near the same vintage as the proposed model Airfix/Dapol one. The propulsion method is irrelevant whether hydraulic, steam or electric. (Hydraulic is not a propulsion system in its own right it still needs a prime mover of some description to generate fluid pressure). It was the travel system we are talking about and in particular the support and guidance. There may well be removable rails, insets or whatever, but it's not normal practice. It is only required for the crane track to have a flange gap for the rail vehicles on the land side. Unless Ralf is intending to model a first world war vintage railway I would suggest that crane is not a suitable prototype to follow. There are plenty of rail mounted travelling dockside cranes still around they are not all in museums. Search the internet for photos.
  12. As I stated previosly , not needed the wheels running on this rail are flangeless!!!!
  13. Dock side cranes do travel down the quayside. In the picture shown only the wheels on the side nearest the ship would be flanged and the wheels are flanged both sides. The other wheel-sets that have to cross the railway tracks are not flanged and can cross other rails without problems. Dockside cranes had to be able to move in order to line up with the ships holds. A lot of dockside cranes are electric and run on trailing cables. Either from a powered cable reel on the crane or plugs and sockets on the quayside. It is common for dockside crane to straddle railway tracks for ease of transfer from ship to rail and vice versa. Only very small dockside cranes work from normal railway tracks and are usually for maintenance or ship repair. The Airfix/Dapol crane is fairly lax in its portrayal of a dockside crane and much simplified.
  14. It has the empty/loaded changeover markings and nothing else. The underframe looks completely wrong.
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