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wainwright1

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  1. I have three of the H's and two out of the three have had problems. The first one in original full Wainwright livery was used on my exhibition layout. It did one complete run with its train in and out of the station without problem,. The second time it emerged from the tunnel giving a very realistic cloud of smoke from the chimney, unfortunately without a smoke unit ! Fortunately it did not do any damage to the body. The dealer I bought it from was standing in front of the layout when it happened and saw everything. He returned it to Hornby for me and they replaced the motor. No problems since. The second one was the collector club model, also in full Wainwright livery. This one faired worst and seemed to get hot much quicker causing the boiler in front of the dome to sag. I phoned Hornby and returned the model. They replaced it completely and I have had no further problem with it. I have seen on another thread that there may have been issues with the assembly of the motors causing problems. Screws not properly tightened up ? RB P.S. Also had one of the front steps fall off. That went back into its slot with a spot of superglue.
  2. I would just mention in passing that one of my club colleagues recently built a replacement Ratio signal for a club layout. The kit was moulded in white and black plastic parts. The white parts were fine, but he found that it was impossible to cut the black plastic parts from the sprue without them shattering. Luckily he was able to replace the cranks etc with brass ones and was able to complete the kit. So problems with plastic are not a thing of the past. RB
  3. I believe that they were also used by the ROD, so another livery option. RB
  4. I know a modeller who used to scratch-build wagons in gauge 1 from polystyrene and he found that after a couple of years that these tended to fall apart generally where they had been stuck together using solvent. I think that it was the plasticiser in the styrene that had evaporated out of the material that caused the problem. I am not sure if the problem is the same with ABS type plastic as used in Plastruct or Evergreen. The type of solvent used may also have implications. He now builds his wagons with wood and metal. I built many Airfix kits over the last 50 years and do not recall any of them falling apart, although they were mostly constructed using the old polystyrene cement rather than solvent. I suspect that once they were painted it substantially reduced the migration of the plasticiser. I also have many old Tri-ang and other brands of plastic bodied locos, coaches and wagons and do not remember any of then going crumbly or soft. Obviously prolonged exposure to direct sunlight would be likely to cause damage on more than one level, but perhaps storing models somewhere where there might be exposure to some kind of fumes or vapour which might otherwise be considered innocuous might cause damage over a prolonged period of time.
  5. You are probably right about Ratio clearing old stock for the LNWR kits, I recall that there was either a small add or part of a main ad in I think the Railway Modeller stating they had a limited quantity of the kits and that they would be discontinued. The transfers were definitely PressFix which I use for all my Southern pre-grouping wagons and I think I still have the remains of some of the LNWR ones. I think that they even had made up very small tare markings for the solebars which I found useful. These transfers seem to adhere very well to most surfaces, but satin and gloss are best, and I find that if I apply the smaller lettering lightly, I can manoeuvre it with end of a cocktail stick to get it into perfect alignment with no carrier film. RB
  6. I recall that the Ratio LNWR wagon kits that were withdrawn were offered in a plastic bag without instructions, but with the standard transfer sheet which was PressFix and very good, maybe just before the range was sold to PECO. I bought some and and have built them. I have not bought any kits recently, but I think that the current kits have water slide transfers which are not so good. Other kits which were discontinued were the NBR Open Cask Wagon and GWR Tube Wagon, although these may have been withdrawn earlier. I have an unbuilt Open Cask kit somewhere to add to my pre-grouping collection. RB
  7. It is a pity that they are doing Basra again as the Longmoor loco which was previously produced by Bachmann for Modelzone, although this will obviously be a more accurate representation. They could do the other one Bari, which was the one that was involved in the serious accident on the railway involving a number of fatalities. RB
  8. An interesting thread with some fairly local connections. I recall using Cow Gun in the mid-eighties for mounting materials, maps etc, to some display panels for an exhibition. Also seem to recall that it went mouldy after a while and stained through the displays, obviously due to it being a natural organic material. Always found the original Evo-stik contact adhesive very good for woodwork assembly and sticking on Formica laminates. I also use it for sticking brick paper onto scratch-built card buildings using the wall paper system. Coat both surfaces, allow to start going off, apply brick paper. It gives you time to straighten things up and any excess can be rubbed of cleanly after it few minutes when it goes rubbery. RB
  9. The cattle wagons would look something like this when lime-washed.
  10. The only one which had the panelling picked out in brown against the cream panels, but no lining, was the one in the Thomas range, but that had a face on the end of it !!!
  11. I have had another testing session with my original S.E.C.R H which had the motor replaced and the Southern liveried one which did not display any problems. Both seem o.k. Mind you this is only running forwards and backwards on a fairly short length of track. The new S.E.C.R was collected on Monday. They are supposed to be replacing it, but have not heard anything yet. RB
  12. An informed sourced has advised me that Hornby received these locos before Christmas and have spent the time since then replacing the motors ! Apparently a lot of the motors from the original batch, the push pull set and now these were poorly assembled. Also seems that the replacement motors that they have been using are are a bit dodgy. Anyone else heard about this ? RB
  13. I had a similar problem with my first H from the first batch, also full Wainwright livery. That took longer for it to start smoking on my layout at an exhibition and did not damage the body. My retailer was standing in front of the layout and saw it happen. It was returned it to Hornby who replaced the motor. RB
  14. Hi All. Received my Hornby Collector Club H Class yesterday. Looked very nice and was well finished. The two headboards enclosed are a nice touch. Took it down to the club to give it a test run. It ran a bit, stuttered and started, stalled and then I noticed it smoking. Took it off and brought it home. Checked it this morning and noticed that the area behind the dome had started to melt. Also noticed that one of the front sand pipes was half broken off. It seems that Hornby still have a problem with these motors. Spoke to the repair section this morning and will have it collected for replacement. The very helpful lady on the phone said that she had only one other faulty one reported, although they have only been sending them out the last couple of days. RB
  15. Hi All. This is regular problem with Humbrol paints. I did a test a few years ago for matt varnishes trying enamel, acrylic and some artists types and found that the Humbrol enamel was the best for drying to a dead matt finish if you got a good tin. Now the problem is that the production appears to be inconsistent and sometimes it does not dry fully matt or it has creamy steaks in it. I have therefore produced some test cards with patches of dark coloured matt paints on, dark brown or matt black are best and I always mix and test the varnish on them before risking it on a model. This way you should be able to determine if there is going to be a problem. You must mix the varnish thoroughly and if it consistently fails to dry properly I take it back to the retailer and ask them exchange it for another tin from a different batch. Note that all Humbrol tins now have a label on the bottom which shows a batch number, so make a note of any dodgy paints and avoid buying any from the same batch. N.B. I did also complain to Hornby about one tin and they told me to send it back to them with a description of what was wrong with it. They sent a replacement through the post, which I did not think that they were allowed to do, but did not comment on the problem. I have not tried airbrushing varnish, but do not think that there should be any problems once the base colour is fully dried whether it is enamel or acrylic. Here is an example of what can go wrong if you do not test the varnish properly before applying to a model. These are two Bachmann models that I weathered. The one on the right was done with untested vanish and got a patchy bloom on it. Fortunately, I was able to touch it up and make it look like a well weathered wagon, but it could have been much worse especially on a prized locomotive or similar. I hope that this helps. RB
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