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  1. I spoke to Dart Castings today and there is a possibility they are creating/replacing some white-metal moulds early in 2021, the GWR autocoach buffers are candidates. Suggest emailing them if you are interested.
  2. I recently bought a nicely made kit of an A28 on eBay but it's got two broken/missing buffers. I can't seem to find anywhere that makes or sells spares in 4mm. Any ideas? Or does anyone have any unwanted spares I could buy? It looks like the Dart Castings detailing kit no longer contains buffers. The 247 Components catalogue is here https://www.247developments.co.uk/4mm Cat September 2020.pdf but none listed. Thanks.
  3. My next one is a D114, brass sides and Hornby ends & roof. Using Ian Rathbone's technique again, but after much experimentation this time I mixed Humbrol 133 and 62 in roughly equal amounts and then added Precision GWR Chocolate until I got the desired degree of brown. Base coat is Precision M&GN Gorse Yellow which is orangey, and gloss. First attempt was too grainy, so started again. Second attempt I think is better. Lining could be better, still getting to grips with the pen.
  4. Thanks Jonathan. There seems to be some debate about the guards handrails colour - see https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches. I'd love to know the definitive answer. Agree about the rain deflectors; a casualty of using the Hornby roof & ends as a donor.
  5. Ian Kirk D212 sides onto a Hornby donor chassis, ends and roof. Teak finish is the method used by Ian Rathbone. I used PP Golden Teak mixed with Humbrol 62 as the brown. The colour is a bit on the orange side, next time I will use try PP LNER Teak. I have two more lined up, a Bill Bedford D114 and a Bill Bedford D144 (which I will make as a D10C).
  6. K38 finished, see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131072-improving-Hornby-restaurant-coach-and-other-coach-builds/
  7. Next project is finished (bar lamp irons). BSL GWR K38, bought part-built as per first picture. I also bought a BSL GWR underframe kit, but only used the truss rods, V-hangers and dynamo in the end, as the battery boxes and vacuum cylinder were too basic. The truss rods needed filing back to 1mm square from 1.5mm square. Battery boxes from Frogmore. Vacuum cylinders and running boards from spares box. Gangways from MJT. Door handles from Bill Bedford etch. End handrails, gangway arms and door grab handles from Hornby Collett. Bogies from Modern Traction Kits but I would avoid in future and use
  8. Sorry not to be clear Rob. It bonds all kinds of metal and plastic. I called out plastic as that’s where many superglued fall short.
  9. I use Zap-A-Gap Medium (green label). It's viscous enough to stay put. And it bonds pretty much all types of plastic.
  10. I tried removing the tyres from my late 90s Hornby version but it ran worse so I put new ones back on again. It’s running is tolerable. I tend to agree with the earlier post that blamed the trailing axle. One day I’ll go the HighLevel route...
  11. There's two in Russell. The second one (I think p182) is pretty good. Lining up my Comet sides with the drawing, all the doors and windows are pretty much spot on, except for the middle double doors, which are 6" too far to the left in the drawing. Here's my sides and the Comet drawing in case it helps.
  12. The Hornby Colletts make great donors apart from the continuous stepboards if the original didn't have them. I can't see an easy way to remove them, if you managed it please share! I lived with that for my H33 upgrade (see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131072-improving-Hornby-restaurant-coach/) but it's the one thing I wish I could fix. It wasn't an issue for the K38 as I bought it part-built and the sides, ends and chassis were all glued together. I'm going to fit door handles, grab rails and droplights after painting. (The latter I will paint before attaching).
  13. I picked up a brass part-built GW Monster at a show a couple of years back and finally finished it last month. It was only the chassis/body/ends shell so much scratch building needed. Gas pipes added to roof make a real difference. Queen posts modelled using split pins. (I do wish someone would make decent GW underframe trussing, of both kinds).
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