[EMU - ex-SECR 4SUB Drawings]

The Golding drawing also has vent hoods for the doors that are squarer than the ex-SER style. It's a little like what would happen if ex-LCDR coaches were converted to EMUs. Was that ever done?

[Day 88: which SE&CR wagon livery is correct?]

3 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Hurst Nelson had the practice of painting wagons to be photographed in "photographic" livery, with black ironwork, shaded lettering, etc. and sometimes apparently very light body colour. This has led some manufacturers of RTR PO wagons astray. Anyway, may be no guide as to appearance in service.

Certainly, and H-N's practice for photography contrasts with Ashford, who seem to have used the service livery for official photographs.

[Day 88: which SE&CR wagon livery is correct?]

The darker grey is about what comes out of a tin of Precision "SECR Grey", so that's a vote in favour. It's certainly better for the Maunsell livery than the Wainwright.

 

I agree with Invicta that your lighter grey looks a little too light; possibly also a little too blue. If you oil-wash it black it will darken to something a bit closer.

 

I now use Tamiya "dark sea grey" for Wainwright light grey. It's also a little too light, but varnish and oil-washing bring it to a shade that pleases me.

 

The black-painted ironwork is probably not accurate for either livery. I've only seen it on trade-built wagons painted by the builders (Hurst Nelson, mainly, who painted as they saw fit and no mere customer was going to tell them different). I presume that even then the ironwork would be painted over grey when the SECR next painted the wagon. In particular, I've never seen a picture of a Maunsell-livery wagon with the ironwork black. Further, the blacking of the ironwork makes the light grey look even lighter.

[Day 79: SER brake progress (at last)]

I'm considering to do the hand-brake wheel, bevel gears and associated crank as an accessory pack in my Shapeways shop. I suspect that they were standard parts in the full-sized railway and one model will do for most goods brakes, PBVs and brake coaches of the SER/SECR; but I need some drawings to check this. I want these bits for some coaches I'm building.

 

Branchlines had a casting for the gears, vertical shaft and crank in some of their kits. This might be available separately.

[Day 79: SER brake progress (at last)]

OK, then I'd like two, please, in due course. If you have any more with broken buffers I'll take those off your hands as I have sprung buffers to fit. 

[Day 79: SER brake progress (at last)]

Which kind of brake is this: passenger or goods? It looks a bit like an 1860's passenger brake. Either way, I'd like one please,  if you get to selling the prints.

[GWR: Low Tech Wagon Improvements]

On 18/05/2020 at 22:31, Magdalen Bridge said:

 

Tomorrow's task is to work out what is the best household material to make tarpaulins from!

I'm considering printed transfers (on white decal-paper) applied to aluminium foil. The decal paper is due in tomorrow and I'll let you know how it went.

[Day 7: livery help request]

I think the blue livery looks nice unweathered. You should probably find out what it looks like when dirty before deciding. If these are your predominant PO wagon then having a distinct colour to them might alleviate the sea of grey ... but your company wagons are red, so maybe that's less important.

 

Interiors should definitely be unpainted wood. Paint flake contaminate the load; creosote more so. Even coal may need to avoid contamination if it's for the brewing or food industries --- that's why brewers liked Welsh anthracite, since it brought less poison into the mix. If you ever do a metal-bodied open, then that would probably be painted inside, but as noted the paint would scrape off quickly.

 

A really easy way to paint dirty wood inside a mineral wagon:

1. Base coat of Tamyia acrylic "wooden deck tan" which looks nothing like wood by itself, but...
2. Dense wash of burnt umber artists' acrylic paint, splodged on with a brush and then partly wiped off along the line of the planks with a cotton bud.
3. Repeat step 2 until it looks woodish from a safe distance. Maybe vary the mix with a little raw sienna opaque and/or black between washes.
4. Successive washes of blackish artists' acrylic until it looks dirty enough.

This will not get you highly-accurate colouring (see learned discussion over on the S4 society forum for more realistic weathering) but messing about with washes is really easy and cheap, and looks highly plausible even thought it's not really right. And you don't need an airbrush to do it, so that's pounds saved and a lot less pain in your life.

 

HTH.

[Day 5: Coaling]

Many Ashford-built "coal" wagons had sheet bars, since all such were dual-use wagons.

 

Suggestion for why Kent Coal needed sheeted wagons: they deal in lime as well as coal.

[Day 3: Wagon liveries]

I use a Posca pen for this rather than a Sharpie. With that pen, it's very easy to neatly paint the top of ironwork. This can be important when colouring internal ironwork as I find it hard to invisibly touch up flaws in the painted wood.

 

Posca pens are very cheap and available on-line (if the supplier is trading during the crisis).

[Tenshodo 14:1 Worm and Wheel.]

Why was the hole in the axle cut with a burr rather than a drill bit?

[Time to tidy up]

Fox have GPV sheets. The HMRS sheet for GWR wagons doesn't have GPV markings.