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MartynJPearson

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  1. I wondered the same but after an albeit not too detailed search, dismissed them as perhaps being part of a generic 08 / 09 detailing pack forming part of the extra pipework on the 09 as you can see in the pictures here https://www.hattons.co.uk/11280/hornby_r2419_class_09_shunter_09012_dick_hardy_in_civil_engineers_grey_/stockdetail.aspx
  2. I didn't manage to reliably glue them so ended up putting a strip of plasticard at the back which chocked them straight. When I tried gluing I found that they soon broke free and pivoted again, so would be interested in which glue you used as I might have another go. Saves having them all upside down when I find a bit of plasticard on the tracks to work out which one it's come off!
  3. No, they were the old ones - although I did talk to someone at a show who was running long MGR trains and they said they were using the newer ones and had no issues. I did replace the wheels too which helped, but it seemed to be the chocking of the bogies which solved the problem.
  4. No problems experienced running : 8 car HST (Lima coaches, Hornby DCC power cars) 6-9 Mk1 coach trains with Bachmann 20, 45, 47 and Hornby 31 9 (would like to be longer, maybe one day) TEA tankers with Hornby 31, Bachmann 37 and 47 One minor issue I had with MGRs (16 of) was nothing to do with traction, more down to their stubborn insistence on following their version of physics and not mine. Periodically they would decide that the path of least resistance on a Peco diamond crossing was to take the track at the angle and not go straight. This was largely solv
  5. There is a sort of triangular relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO and they all hinge on the amount of light available. In low light, there are three things the camera will do... * Use a higher ISO, which results in lower image quality * Use a longer exposure (shutter speed), which can increase motion blur if you or the camera moves * Use a wider aperture, which reduces the depth of field What the camera does is probably down to the software, but I'd imagine it would prioritise ISO and shutter speed over aperture as with correct focusing y
  6. I've found that due to a general lack of woodworking prowess I have sometimes managed to move the Seep motor while screwing it to the board, mucking up the alignment. I've tried a new idea, using glue gun glue to hold them in place and once that is dry screwing them to the board - although I have left one to see how it fares with just the glue and no screws. Only challenge is getting the glue to flow uphill if you are working upside down on the bottom of the board, but I overcame that by using a strip of wood as a spatula to apply the glue.
  7. Seconded, really positive update. Just need to add a feature now that periodically says "Stop reading stuff and actually get on with some modelling"
  8. Is your bus wire insulated or bare? I use bare copper wire for the bus wire and just solder dropper wires directly to it - strip off a half an inch or so of insulation, wrap it round the bus wire and solder. Much cheaper. The only downside is that should you ever dismantle the layout and cut off the dropper wires, you'll have created some very effective barbed wire as my hands are testament to after dismantling some old boards.
  9. I've used Seeps for years without any more than a few minor problems so don't give up! Alignment is key, so if they were working and stopped, it might be worth checking that they are still in position. It's quite a jolt when the solenoid activates so if it's not firmly in place it may move - and it doesn't have to move far to stop the contact. Where I have had problems, a squirt of switch cleaner followed by changing the points half a dozen times seems to do the trick.
  10. Some of these little sponges will do the trick : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Sponge-Tip-Cleaning-Pads-Solder-Cleaner/164306684080?hash=item26417108b0:g:Z3oAAOSwztRe-8M2 Wet them before use, wipe the tip of the iron on them frequently while using it and it should keep the soldering iron tip shiny. The other thing to check is that you are using solder aren't you, not fuse wire?
  11. You can search for items included in the promotion, a search for "model railway" also reveals a whole load of railway modelling books too!
  12. Handy hint 1: A magnet helps recover track pins after you tip a tin of them all over the floor

    Handy hint 2 : Not kneeling on the tin after recovering them saves doing the job a second time

  13. Have you tried Railtec for the transfers? If I've understood "grey dots" correctly, I believe that this may be what you're after... https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=1386 They may also be able to help with the white stripe. Normal disclaimer, no connection, satisfied customer etc, but hope that helps!
  14. Many thanks for the information. Doh, I'd seen the reference in the paper but for some reason, failed miserably to find that page! My application is a 90 degree bend in a fiddle yard. By working out how far apart I have to space the tracks, I can work out how many storage loops I can accommodate in the space, so that is really useful - in fact I think it has meant that I could well have space for an extra loop. That will go down well when Mrs P says "Haven't you already got enough trains?" and I can point to the empty loop...!!
  15. Hi Andy, Don't very often head over the large print section (!) so missed out on Seven Mills. Looking really good, although given the video on Tuesday I think you need to call the tree surgeons in to do some pruning! Good to see your move went well and you lost no time in finding a new home for the railway!
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