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Down_Under

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  1. As promised here are some pictures of the 90-1 and 56-1 gearboxes 90-1 has a worm drive and a milled brass gearbox casing. All shafts 1mm. 56-1 all pinion gears. 1mm shafts. The double gears come as individual gears that you press together (they sell these seperately). Interference fit. The larger tooth gears (20-30t) can all be reamed to take a 2mm axle. I'll use the 56-1 to test for a motor bogie. I will use some exactoscale parallel bushes to sleeve the 1mm axles as I will be using this gearbox as the test mule. I'm thinking custom box perhaps without the massive ratio so that the shaft will be bushed to take a 2mm axle. J
  2. The website in posted the link has some good gears. I’ll post some pics shortly of the gearboxes I got. Axle hung gears 100% possible from 14-90 to 1 ratio. J
  3. Mine turned up this AM, perfect day to sit on the veranda, listen to the kookaburras (the laughing kind) with a coffee and have a read
  4. Thanks for the reply. Thanks for the tips. Will give it a go. J
  5. A question > how many times can you keep annealing / bending brass? If i have a piece of work that has been bent wrong, can I anneal it, roll it flat and start again? I've picked up a kit and a curve has been poorly formed and I was hoping that I could heat, flatten, heat and then re-roll to the correct profile?
  6. Wanted pair of Alan Gibson F4/F5 milled frames
  7. Bring this back on topic-ish: I kinda like the rebuilt W1 in photographic grey. Looks quite smart. Torn between putting in a preorder for version or in LNER garter blue. Was there a point in time where all the streamlined designed (A4, P2, W1) all carried blue (P2 in green) Or is the only time after the valance were removed and thus BR Green is appropriate? J
  8. Wanted - pair or 00/EM 16 spoke Sharman 5’6” wheels as shown below if you have a pair, keen to purchase
  9. Well mine arrived last Friday, all the way down under. No broken bits to report. first impression - imposing regarding the trailing axles - perhaps they could have gone with a proper bissel/pony for the last one, with a fixed Intermediate with plenty of side play for the middle one. J
  10. Email from DHL telling me it’s left Blighty and due in Aus on Monday.
  11. Me too. Looks like it might get down under before christmas
  12. Very nice Mike, put me on the list for one of those sentinels please James
  13. While I have a think about how to fill the slight gap between the can front panel and body side, without unsoldering everything (low melt + heat sink?). I started on the underframe. The Undergubbins- Details are sketchy and most photos are just a black shadow. But that said, there needs to be a air brake actuation cylinder, some push rods, air receiver queen posts and truss rods. Also noted in some images are some square transformer like boxes at one end. The LOR are all air braked, having a large reservoir that stored the air for the brake system, enough for several trips. This was charged at the end of a run by external sources. The only image of the layout is one that appears in CE Box’s book of one of the very first units. The units did and where modified over the years, so this is at best a guide, which is what I have used. For example, is the large air reservoir under both driving motor units or just one end? If anyone has any pictures, please post or send me a PM! For the air reservoirs, I started with 7mm OD brass tube that is 35mm in length. 10thou (0.25mm) brass strip for strapping. Queen posts laminated from 0.4mm brass scrap etch and fashioned to 34mm x 3mm x 1.2mm.
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