Its been a while, and like everyone else, making the most of the Covid-19 lockdown and change in jobs to make some progress. My apologies for the slow progress/updates
I think way back to August last year, we had a rolling chassis...now we have a fucntioning loco. Wins all round.
JE/Oxford Rail Janus
Springing - I used the 'compensated spring' method, using standard high level hornblocks + space saver tabs. It works great, but even with S4 spacers, it was a little tight when it came to the gearbox. I've used a High level Load hauler Compact+ 80:1 + 1220D + 10mm x 6mm flywheel. I am not sure the flywheel actually does anything, but its not doing any harm I guess. It is tight. In future I think I'd just use the Load Hauler part. I had to file the drive extender to allow some movement and the main gearbox itself to clear the hornblocks (not sure if this is normal?). In the end I had little space:
Marking where to file back the carrier, so it didn't foul the hornblock
I think in part this was to do with how I sprung the chassis - I am sure know what I know now, I would do things a little different - using shorter handrail knobs and slimliner hornblocks for example.
Gearbox in, wired up and run in on (in?!) the vice a'la Iain Rice.
Rudimentary pick ups - blue tacked in for some test runs. Inspired by a flick through Iain Rices' Loco Chassis Construction. I will use a 14BA nut and bolt to hold these in, plus a trim and a tweak. Will add a third pick up to the remaining axle, but I was pleasantly surprised how it ran with just the 4 pick ups. I cant ever imagine it would ever struggle over the largest (I tried a 3mm rail gap) gap.
I weighted the loco to 300g and it was a bit of a Brut - fully compensated and low gearing, it had heaps of traction, crawling over some pretty knarly trackwork, and then hauling some weighted and very un-free running hastily re-gauged hoppers without a problem.
Wired up on the test track, Torque link in (used 0.6mm wire and 0.8mm tube soldered to the frame. The torque link is slightly z shaped, to allow the natural springyness to hold it into position.
You'll notice I haven't used any bushes - yet - These are Gibson wheels with Gibson crankpins - I will bore out the outside to take the bush with the thread, and then that will leave enough space for the roller bearing cover....that will be the next chapter.
Quick question on DCC - Should I recycle the old PCB board? Or hard wire in a board +decoder? Suggestions on a post card please?
Janus Brake Gear
Next chapter - the tedious task of the brake gear. The brake gear on a Janus is fully compensated - meaning technically it is not 'hung ' from above, and it has dual shoes on each wheel (check out some photos here) - but to make it easier to remove to maintenance, I have. It has 2 shoes per wheel equalling 12 shoes in total. With the JE etch you get a shoes with the hanger plus a half etch lamination. You also get representation of some of the pull rod gear/brake rigging. The OR Janus comes complete with all 12 shoes, linkage and air cylinders, if a touch undernourished. You could simply recycle these if you chose, but I have decided to combine both. The brake gear to me is a pretty defining part of the bulk of a Janus, so I've decided to have a go at best recreating it as I can.
Yours truly in action
JE rigging top, OR below...
I opted to add some more meat to the JE brake hangers by soldering some spare etch to the top and bottom, drilling and filing to shape. Top modified, bottom original. Well worth it I think. Check out the prototype and you'll notice that extra "meat"
The JE laminated etches and OR brake cylinder. I have decided to use a mixture of 0.5mm tube and 0.4mm wire to represent the pull rod and turn buckle adjuster to give a little more depth to the brake rigging.
One quarter down three to go....
Impetus 165 DE
Dug this out the 'stash'. It was a eBay pick up - home brewed attempt at CSB springing and it came busted Mashima 1220 motor ( the commutators had been blown of the back and it ran like a 3 legged dog). As i slowly stripped it - it turned out that the CSB spring points where in the correct position, but the chassis was out of square by a good 1mm and the horn cheeks not square. I discard the home made spacers and used at set of spare P4 society 15.5mm gauge ones.Coupled with the the 0.8mm thick frame gave a respectable back to back of 17mm for P4.
It came with a 54:1 roadrunner, that i've coupled to a low revving Mitusmi. I may change my mind and stick a 80:1or 108:1 humpshunter in there. Watch this space.
What we start with - everything bar the motor
Only later, while browsing an old MJR I found its of 1987 vintage! No price, but I would have paid about double its original price, but that included gearbox and wheels (+broken motor). Judith Edge make the earlier version, which I will be getting my hands on shortly. I have decided which it to be, maybe Barrington Cement? Or maybe a suitable NCB prototype - suggestions anyone?
Started with a half built chassis....homemade hornblock and all
I had hoped that just replacing the hornblocks with some High Level ones would suffice, but daylight is a bad (especially for vampires...)
So apart it came - soldered the hornblocks to the chassis which is mostly the reverse of what the books say, but it had already been cut out
Some careful alignment and we have a square chassis. Maybe slightly unorthodox, but it worked
New spacers, new motor and off we go!
Started on the buffer beams following Mike Edges' advice - pinned the lamination together with toothpicks and then ran solder around the edges
Some filing tidied this up nicely
Next step is the brake gear and then body work....watch this space.
Hornby 4wd Sentinel
Drop in Utrascale conversion + extreme etching laser glazing. Relatively straight forward conversion. I ended up rewiring this loco, cutting out the DCC socket and FM AM?) resistor thing. It runs much better now. No idea why. I also found it was poorly assemble and the worm was not engaging with the main gear. After a good hour of back and forth on a 2m test track to bed the motor in it runs OK. Despite its short wheelbase and no compensation whatsoever, it does very well on my ropey and uneven test track, even managing a wheel in the air without problems!
Nothing to exciting here
Awaiting some glazing
At some point I'll need to learn weathering and build a layout
Hornby OC Sentinel P4 and OIC Conversion
So following Porcy Manes conversion, I've had a crack at my own. Except I've used a spare set of Ultrascale wheels, instead to black beetle solid N/S discs. In future , id use the solid N/S discs, purely on the ease of tweaking the original pick ups.
To add (also see West Halton Sidings) - RT Models Sides and Buckeye coupling pocket, plus laser glaze to add. Undecided to make this a 'girl' (unvac braked) or a boy' (Vac Braked) at this point
More to follow on this one
That is all for now. Hoepfully between all the action thats going on this forum I'll be able to get some more modelling done