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Chas Levin

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  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    LNER and constituents (especially the GNR), building stock from kits & modifying / detailing RTR, plus the occasional excursion into Victorian steam and even Swiss railways...

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  1. Thanks! I did thnk about nicking the footplate, but I've never seen that done on any loco (though to be fair I don't routinely look out for it) and it looks / feels wrong to me. Looking at just a few this morning, none had anything interfering with the line of the footplate's front edge as far (as I could see, given the limitations of the photographs) and several definitely didn't, plus no RTR locos seem to have that, so on the whole, I decided not. Many locos of this sort of era were I believe built before these pipes - and the new-fangled 'vacuum brakes' were in use and they were a
  2. Yes, seconded here - I only just had look, very smart
  3. Back to the world of piping (sounds like a discount plumbing store ) and the front vac standpipe. First, the components: The small rectangular piece of NS 0.5 mm etch is to bulk out the difference between the vertical plane of the buffer beam and the footplate's front overhang, so the pipe can sit against the edge of the footplate and on this piece and be vertical. The L-shaped piece of 0.4 mm wire will provide the pin to hold that piece of etch and the pipe in place. The longer piece of 5 thou etch with the kink in it will be the strapping over the pipe. It's 1 m
  4. Very interesting, thank you Stephen, makes a lot of sense. Is it also the case that signals in general decreased in size over a similar period? I have the impression that earlier signals were taller, with more repeating posts, but were gradually scaled down and subsumed into the landscape somewhat...
  5. Sorry to hear supplies have got so difficult Chris and like many others, I hope things are up and running again soon!
  6. That's very interesting - I hadn't thought about some locos being LH and some RH drive and how that would affect things. It's got me wondering though: the C12 was an Ivatt GNR and I see the C15 and C16 were Reid NBR designs - did those two men favour opposite sides to drive, or is the difference down to GNR and NBR practices? And if N2s were LH, was that a Gresley preference? And if so, was the Ivatt N1 (on which the N2 was based) originally RH drive? Something for future reading, I think...
  7. So, a quick detour from piping to do the front lamp irons (as mentioned above because I didn't fancy doing them with the vac standpipe in place), using 0.4 mm pins - my new Secret Weapon . First, the holes are drilled: I got the front four almost perfectly aligned: three are 3.25mm from the front edge of the footplate, one is 3.15 - I can live with that . Then, 0.4 mm wire up from underneath and nipped off at slightly longer than the thickness of the lamp irons' etch material (with a generous amount soldered flat under the footplate to anchor them and prevent them
  8. I filed a small flat to help the drill start, but also using a fresh sharp drill makes a difference. I have a tendency to try to keep using things to make the most of them, but doing that with small, cheap drills is not a good idea so I'm prioritising getting the job done and if that means using a up a drill or two more...
  9. Excellent: I'm glad I suggested something you found useful, having been the recipient of so much useful help from you! Here, the piping continues its slow and careful course: Not fixed yet, partly because I want to assemble all the parts before fixing anything, partly because the Hobby Holidays' 4 thou strip is on the way. It certainly encourages slow and careful working, dealing with things on such a small scale: the difference beween filing the right amount and filing too much is too tiny to allow going at it with any speed, not to mention the recurrent
  10. Well done! I built a Jidenco 5 Ton GNR/LNER fish wagon a while back and would have to agree, that was a pain too!
  11. Thank you: your system for making them is excellent and once I'd got the hang, I got it down to about 20 minutes. Yes, the C12 has prominent elbows (there's a 'Yes Minister' line or two about having policitcal elbows that keeps hovering just out of recall, on the edge of my memory...). Can I just check something though: you say the S/H pipe is under the RH valance on the C16, but it's on the LH side on the C12 (I'm assuming we're both using the same convention of sides being determined as if we were standing in the cab, facing forwards?). Were they on different sides between the C
  12. Good evening Tony, that's a lovely model; I think I'll have to build one at some point... Your recent postings of 'locos in motion' photos reminded me of one of my all-time favourite photos and I wanted to share it here. I think it's very well known and has been widely disseminated before (I have it in at least two books) so I hope - in light of recent discussions about copyright and the posting of images online - that it's OK to post it (with apologies for my poor quality reproduction): my apologies if not, I just think it's a lovely example of the full-sized version of this type
  13. I can confirm that it's fine drilling through the first soldered wire and on through the second side of the elbow and it makes fixing the second wire much easier. Here's today's crop: I used 188 on two, which will be the ones attached to the standpipes, but for the rest I stayed with 145 because your point is a very good one David that the fixing points for the whole assembly should be far enough away from the elbows to avoid problems. I did one extra elbow while I was set up, in case of accidents of carpet losses: no use searching for one of these with a magnet,
  14. Ok, we're in business: my first elbow joint, in 0.9mm tube: As you said David, difficult to get decent focus! I've left the wires deliberately long at this stage as it was easier to hold and clean up that way. The difficult part is setting the second piece of wire in and straight, because it can't go right through the elbow like the first one does. Actually, having said that, can it? Have you tried, after soldering the first piece of wire through the elbow, drilling right through the elbow again the other way, including through the first piece of wire
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