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richard i

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Posts posted by richard i

  1. 6 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

    Yes, the basic interior is 7mm strip along the bottom and bench ends, with 3mm (First class) and 2mm (Third class) strips for the internal window pillars, topped off with 1.5mm 'L' angle.  I did cheat with the faux-BTK, with that having the First class spacing in the compartments, those Thirds actually have the thicker pillars.


    Did you get to the bottom of why certain ones were derailing?

    Thanks for the numbers. I have the exact figures for each part of the compartment and they are within a smidge of what you are quoting. The derailing was for different reasons. A back to back had slipped/ bogie not quite squared. One was catching on the brake cylinder and one on the underframe/ solebars. I think they are all addresses now. 

    • Like 2
  2. 4 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

    Hi Richard, hope you don't mind my sharing the progress with my own interiors.  I started with measuring and cutting seating strips for each of the compartments (15 in total for my own 4 coaches), and then working out how they'll fit within the coach.  Each 'bench' is 20mm wide, which allows for a corridor width of 10mm (roughly, as at least one of the interiors is narrower than it should be for some reason).  A 7mm wide strip (cut to length appropriate to the individual coach) is glued to positon at one end 'bench', and the rest of the seating installed.


    Looking forward to seeing your own take on the interiors.



    This has given me an idea. I was going to cut out the windows but you seem to be doing it by using different pieces to make the down struts around the windows. 
    no interiors yet in mine, but glazing here for their portraits.





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  3. I got the chance to take the carriages for a road test. I spent the time trying to tweak them to improve running so did not take out a camera. Three ran fine, the others needed more serious adjustments which I have looked to do.

    I have started on the interiors which look like a confusing set of lines.


    these are the floors with marks for where the internal walls go. 
    here is hoping it all works out. Not looking forward to cutting out all the compartment windows. Flash backs to the Barnums.


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  4. We had consultants come in and insisted on giving feedback to the management in front of the whole staff. “So everyone was on the same page”  we grumbled about being made to go to the meeting beforehand. Was one of the best 2 1/2 hours of my life. It was great to watch. 

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  5. 7 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

    I've used Glue n Glaze for my windows, though any thick PVA glue should work just as well.  I've avoided using superglue for windows for a while now, as I got fed up trying to rescue them after the frosting got hold.

    It promises to not fog up but be stronger than other glue and dry clear so if some gets on the visible window it is unseen. I thought it worth a try. I will check tonight to see if it is worth keeping on going with.


    • Like 2
  6. Window trial. Using this glue.


    Trial stick is by the end of the words. Certainly sticks, is not as clear as they suggest. It needs pressure for that. Just use the glue on the unsighted overlap. It did not fog.

    it does need two hours to dry. That should not be a problem to leave and return to with 7 to glaze.

    should at least mean no windows fall out in a year or two time. 

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  7. Development phase.

    have tried to print gold lined brown panels from drawing in paint. It does not like telling you all the dimensions. So I have numbered and measured the prints to know which to keep and hopefully copy. 14 needed. 

    the colour is a bit off as it an old cartridge so that bothers me less. They were the right length according to the numbers but then I had to print in A4. It will be further complicated as I think the transfer paper is 8’ x11’ as it is from the USA. 
    I also need to see if the printer will print it flat or only take from the tray below. If not...plan C (?) 


    • Like 4
  8. 1. Did these chimneys and domes carry on through LNER days into the 1930s on some locos?

    chimney and dome were big to start and then got changed for a smaller flowerpot chimney before getting a smaller version of the original chimney shape. It depends on your year and number chosen.

    2. What sort of tender have I got? The green book talks about 3,250 and 4,000 gallon tenders but I can’t see any difference in the photos.

    would need to measure for which, but it is not an ex ROD tender, nor has it a water fill scoop. Difficult to tell if it has coal rails plated over on the outside or built from start with plate sides. 

    3. Did any carry two pot uncovered safety valves? Less likely they were being switched to Ross pop from end of gcr time. Again depends on date and number. 

    4. Are there other issues to catch out the less GCR aware modeller? Missing the handle to go behind the wheel on the smokebox door. I will look for others, but I think as others have said it looks more scratchbuilt. Dimensions of cab etc. just seem a smidge off. 
    Wish I could be more help.


    • Thanks 1
  9. Yes lner did have full stops on the very early paint jobs in 1923.

    the back head would be black but the cab inside might have to be gcr cab cream as sold by precision paints. Cream inside the roof and the top half of the sides. 
    The 3d printed carriages look great. As Andy says, a gcr 6 wheel set would be great ( in 4mm as well) hattons are just too generic. 


  10. 19 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

    You need to experiment to get the consistency of the paint right, slightly thinned.  Use a brush to load the bow pen (not too much) and wipe any excess off the outer sides of the pen.  It sometimes helps to just touch a scrap surface immediately before drawing the line, just to get the paint flowing off the pen.  Don't press with the pen, just let it sit on the surface under it's own weight and guide it.     At least these are my experiences.



    I will try this if that is my route. I am also thinking of looking at drawing it on the computer and then printing. Can guarantee straight lines then! I have the decal paper. 


    • Like 1
  11. Playing around with the lining for the solebars. 

    on here are many tries with 0.5mm pens. Lots of lines on the cardboard. However most are not visible on the black and brown paint. Those that are just do not have the right hue.

    the brass is possibly for the bowpen, but never got it to work so far and the brass paint comes out too inconsistent in colour.

    I might have to wait till shops open and get the mix of buff and yellow to do a proper job. 

    still need to work out how to make the bowpen do what I want in the mean time.


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  12. What about usa designers. The Pennsylvanian k4 was some of the inspiration for Gresley’s a1 pacific. Others went over too for ideas. Robinson for example is one. The USA had locos of any size long before the uk got round to them.


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  13. 32 minutes ago, James Harrison said:

    I'm envious (to the nth degree) of your coach building skills.  Very, very nice work.  Presumably the next project is a Parker or Pollit 4-4-0 (or even a Pollitt Single?) to haul them?

    Very kind of you to say so. They look rougher when you get up closer to them. The don’t half take a time to build too. There are plans for both those locos in the pipeline. I have a kit for the 4-4-0 and bits of tube and flat brass for the single. However as only an o4, d11 and a j11 are the only r-t-r then having to build everything else is taking a long time. Especially at the glacial pace which my build seem to move at. Then I attribute that partly to the job and kids.

    still have not fully resolved hove I am going to do the lined panel on the sole bar which will slow it down again.


    • Like 5
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