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richard i

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Posts posted by richard i

  1. Done bar the couplings.

    FF824ABB-6882-48FA-8A1B-D956EE55E7EE.jpeg.86d39a11710400d808d614c1e2f18c92.jpeg

    a mixture of lettering. Some with big numbers some will have plates. Some with stars and some with out. Some with coal wagon lettering and some without. With wire mesh siding and not. Oh the variety from a humble 5 plank. 
    the NER lettering was from a sheet of BR restaurant car letter. It still has to have its outs side toned down with weathering too.

    richard 

    • Like 7
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  2. I hope it comes soon for you. If it is any glimmer of hope, I have been modeling with one eye for many a year. In fact I can’t remember having both to work with. It does make depth perception more difficult but a couple of extra angles helps get pieces to sit in the correct place.

    richard 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  3. The next project begins as paint is drying. 
    A question though. The drawing shows battery boxes below 

    95471C8D-3192-4B8E-B213-B3E0F82D0231.jpeg.4637930badc1cd6dbb972c749a9d4841.jpeg

    had them at the end of its life

    4AD858A1-9BA6-4CB1-B0FE-E7CEBB8FAAF8.jpeg.99d7443f633813cf7d51295468221ffe.jpeg

    however this build photo does not. Show them. 
    C61277A9-D152-4CEC-88BA-411D30377FA4.jpeg.9b40e90e58fca1c0c74399329a0b2edf.jpeg

    now I thought perhaps gas as the earlier builds had transverse gas cylinders. Later builds had battery boxes for the kitchen from the start. So what did this have to start? From the picture it looks like nothing! What am I missing? Anyone who is good at interpretations underframes on photos? 
    many thanks for any thoughts,

    richard 

    • Like 3
  4. 2 hours ago, gr.king said:

    Have you by any chance fitted the castings for the shoes and pushrods inside-out? Unless those brake levers both (unusually) have reversing cams at the base of the V hanger, hidden by the door springs, it appears to me that they will release rather than apply the brakes when pushed down.

     

    If it is an error it won't be the only wagon model to have been built that way.

    I followed the picture provided. Should have checked more photos. They will be staying that way now, but I will know for next time.

    have built a wagon in a day, it is foreign NER so I put it together quickly.

    40EEA185-7E63-4E94-AC15-5E0C701D50BF.jpeg.4a086d88d93597f411380a675a267079.jpeg

    On to painting.

    24D8A6FE-BD8B-4F4B-9B16-98885652DFFC.jpeg.9fdd36ab43759bcc9fe831f258f4057b.jpeg

    they now all need to go into the paint shop.

    richard

    • Like 5
  5. So I could show this and pretend things have all worked out.

    CB0F17C5-1AB0-4028-8D6A-DED738E61747.jpeg.9848a6e775749e3ec48bc034d7c21e2d.jpeg

    I do feel that it should be a warts and all tale. So, there is this. 
    A1AA0233-A498-4A6F-8B4B-33F75B6549F8.jpeg.3f7ef54fcfe8535648f9bbbcc485f930.jpeg

    iron lingering too long in the wrong place. Gap in the brake lever.

    I may just paint it black and have the brake lever merge in or try a bridging repair. Perhaps a little paper to get the paint across the gap.

    just to show progress has not entirely stopped due to work.

    richard 

    • Like 3
  6. 1 hour ago, James Harrison said:

    After a few months spent repainting and detailing some Hornby clerestories (nine of them, some of them completely rebuilt into 'proper' GC diagrams, the others just repainted), I've decided it's time to look at getting some more locomotives sorted out. 

     

    First on my list is GCR class 3 / LNER F1 #589, the only one of its class to retain a roundtop boiler beyond GCR days (by 1923 fitted with ross pop safety valves too).  I anticipate that this should be a 'simple' case of converting a Bachmann Lanky tank- most of the work being a rebuild of the cab and tanks/ bunker- being one of those of the class with the short bunker I won't even have to lengthen the donor loco.  

     

    And then I'll look again at that Cotswold whitemetal F1 I've got....

     

    I agree with your assessment. The top of the cab comes off the donor. So new roof, sides and cab front and rear to make.

    then it is how far you want to go. Move the water filler cap? Fit the reverser? Change the cab instruments? 
    look forward to seeing this.

    richard 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. 2 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

    A wonderful image Andrew,

     

    Many thanks.

     

    It also shows that Darlington painted the buffer shanks red on any locos shopped there; at least some of the time. 

     

    Regards,

     

    Tony. 

    Yes a minefield when trying to decide what colour to paint buffer stocks in the period. Even photos of your chosen loco might not help due to angles blocking line of sight. That happens more often than you might imagine.

    I spent a lot of time on the j39 dividing what was right.

    richard  

  8. 8 hours ago, James Harrison said:

    Where did you get the mesh from?  (thinking one or two of those might look interesting on a couple of my own wagons).

    They are good for adding variety and a little different. I think I have only seen it modeled on John quick’s layout.

    I used the top half of this wagon from wizard.

    BA2FAA69-E50D-4A10-8566-D11F11CA7133.jpeg.e6ce2010f8efd929245e4a46ea22781a.jpeg

    not exactly correct but passes at 3ft in my opinion. 
    on the plus side they also ran without cages so you can build up the NER wagon to add to the fleet too.
    richard 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  9. 14 hours ago, TurboSnail said:

     

    Good, because I've made a little bit of progress on that front...

     

    I tried painting the roof by hand, but couldn't get a finish I was happy with, particularly around the birdcages, so they're spray painted. Which resulted in a slightly weird colour scheme (I think the vertical bars on the birdcages should be body colour) but I'm happier with that than having an obviously poor paint job.

     

    Now need to think about how I'm going to do the glazing (inc. droplights) and interiors.

     

    IMG_20210903_210313.jpg.ff0b0d83feeb29ff20db1d5e4189aa1b.jpg

    Try masking the spray pained roof and then spray or hand paint the birdcage window surrounds. 
    richard 

  10. 8 hours ago, Ian Rathbone said:

     

    The model has the route disc on the cab side which would put it in the post grouping period, so between 1923 & 1934. I don’t know exactly when the portholes were plated over but Castles were being built with them in 1923. Let’s say it’s about 1925 but the green paint looks very light to me - not ‘bronze’ enough. It was quite a dark green back then. The buffer beams should be ‘China Red’ not the bright red it appears to be, or is that a result of the bright lighting Tony uses?

     

    For those who may be interested there is a full description of GWR liveries on my website. Meanwhile here is a really ugly outside frame loco - a scratch-built Kruger in 7mm.

     

    BEEAF57D-505E-4627-8F59-C38F00D42798.jpeg.51b81dc8762e523cfe0812905646a3ef.jpeg

     

    Ian R

    Tender and cab look nice. The smokebox and front bogie too. It is just the bit in the middle which looks like a dog’s  dinner. 
    wonderful model though.
    richard

    • Like 3
  11. Andy

    I did not use the chassis. I could get it to work fine but it had lumps in places which would have needed the body to be pulled apart again and I was not up for that so have it for the original conversion of mine and I stole the chassis out of that one to solve the problem of marrying up the chassis and body of this one.  If that makes sense.

    I have decided on green. No one has shouted yet so it looks like they will stay green.

    richard

    • Like 2
  12. Jim 

    I think you are right. I have started with r&e lettering and so should persist with those. The f1 will need to attended to. It will join the queue.

    the next project is a batch of 5 wagons. I needed the 5th NER wagon to give me a wire mesh to make the top of a wagon I have had a hankering after since seeing one running on John Quick’s layout. 
    AB4DDAD1-05D5-4E1B-9E36-C45853CC4CBA.jpeg.22f48437e309b64ca124019225f0b104.jpeg

    Using a gcr open and the top off the NER wagon. It is not a perfect fit nor an exact copy but it has the right flavour I feel.

    the others will be a pair of end door coal wagons. 
    wizard should be thanked and supported having put their faith in producing gcr kits.

    richard 

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  13. I would resist a full strip of paint as I do not know how it is put together and it is nicely built and do not want to return it to a kit of parts.

    stripping the transfers, adding detail and then building up the repaint from there might be the best way forward. Keeping the modeling but changing a paint job. 
    Thanks for all the opinions

    richard 

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  14. Andy

    Thank You.

    I did use the overlays. Just took a little time rolling to ease out a crease or two and a small strut inside the top edge of the cab. 
    the lining is all transfers from different sets to get shapes to fit. Mark’s for spotting A3 splasher lining. Corridor tender lining etc.

    it took a couple of weeks longer to paint than if I had gone for unlined black livery of later years, but where would be the fun in that. ( though that was not what I said when I realized I was only half way through the lining after a week of evenings already doing it.) 

    richard 

  15. On 27/08/2021 at 16:40, Regularity said:

    If it bothers you, change it.

    If it doesn’t bother you, leave it alone.

     

    Only you know that, and no one else’s opinion matters, unless you are building it for a competition, in which case exact fidelity to the prototype is your guidance.

     

     

    Thanks for your succinct summary. I do agree with your sentiments, however, I am conflicted about the best course of action and am open to hearing others thoughts on the matter to see how they view the balance between improvement vs keeping historical modeling. 
    richard 

    • Like 1
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