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richard i

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Posts posted by richard i

  1. 7 hours ago, AVS1998 said:

    Hello all, I just wanted to chime in and say I've been watching this thread with great interest.

     

    Richard, it's been really useful reading your coach construction techniques, it's given me some ideas of how to approach some brass kits I have myself. I'm still not entirely confident with the medium, but I'm getting there!

     

    I just wanted to ask quickly, seeing as this seems to be 'the place' where GCR knowledge is abound, does anyone have any further information on GCR excursion stock? I've managed to piece together a vague idea of what may have been used during a particular period (1905-7, 1910+), but I've not got anything concrete. The implication of twelve-wheel dining cars from circa 1906 particularly interested me, as they were constructed at the beginning of the matchboard period but apparently still followed Parker practice. 

     

    I can't wait to see more developments, it's definitely motivation to get back to my own modelling.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Alex

    Thank you for you kind words.

    there are photos of excursions run by the GCR to Plymouth and they ran elsewhere. There were twelve wheel diners from earlier too which were joint stock so traveled further around. I have not looked specifically at long distance excursion stock to see exactly what was in the train consist. However, pictures of local excursions from the northern heartland to the coast for instance had anything which could turn a wheel in their rake. There are a few photos of a series of boots excursions from the midlands in the early twenties (I think) which used match board stock. I do not think there was special narrower excursion stock built. However, I would need to look further to give a more accurate/ concrete answer.

    richard 

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  2. 7 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

    I suppose that is the answer I should expect from one of our children's educators. :good:

     

    What is like being back at proper work again?  :scratchhead:

    Never stopped, not that the media would acknowledge that. Unless you are trying to light a touch paper, in which case I am to tired to respond. Working two schools one on line and one in school has been exhausting for the last 2 1/2 months. 

    • Agree 2
    • Friendly/supportive 5
  3. Quick quiz. Gcr tail lamps’ bodies. Red, black or white?

    I know the lenses are red but were the tail lamps like the side lamps on the brakes? Or black like loco lamps, but that makes them harder to see for the signalmen. Or white so easily visible like br era tail lamps? 
    only images I can find on line are auctions of hand lamps which are balk bodied. 
    many thanks

    richard. 

     

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  4. 46 minutes ago, Manxman1831 said:

    Done a little more perusing of blown up photos from Mr Banks' collection, in particular one showing 11B at the head of a 6-coach train.  My educated guess is that the crests on the compartment side go on the plain panels between the doors - the corridor first only has two on that side (going off the smudges on the B&W photo), but it is hard to tell as it is the fourth coach back.

    Thanks I have been playing with these too and like you have found that any of the other side are of the carriages of interest have them far back in the formation. I am reaching the point of making a decision based on best guess. 
    in better news the others have had their transfers. From four different manufacturers just to get all the right ones. Plus some great advice about transfer restorer from John. 
    E9D7BBF1-7F57-4446-B8E2-708E615F40CD.jpeg.64cf8cbba0f057581acd82e492bf72b4.jpeg
    8EA3855D-1EB6-4F5E-BCFD-EB60B07C7084.jpeg.bb0c5bf27b025a813576bf1da66f9968.jpeg

    09ECCCC3-A263-4D3A-849E-46B2BBDC615E.jpeg.fdbd7d4aa74ec7845a40ff3537db0834.jpeg

    464ACD19-2DF3-41ED-8083-CD76B36C3DB4.jpeg.c3f6ee63295f8b9b33e5b7086c3df467.jpeg

    including the buffet carriage with all the correct labeling, except for one “kitchen” transfer in gold for the door I can’t track one down. 
    richard 

    • Like 9
    • Informative/Useful 1
  5. Almost all numbers fitted. Some had up to three a side. Most individually fitted. Though I did fit a 21 upside down to give me 12 though I challenge anyone to spot which it is.

    2CD40D8E-7BE9-41A7-AB82-7FFC3ABBDCC2.jpeg.4f3199a4e691d778ba4c726657fb3c6e.jpeg

    still can’t work out the first.

    9CCCE50E-F48C-428E-9961-B73AF1930505.jpeg.38b6920acbb71d03bebe0e0a69ab4391.jpeg

    it does not have the odd number of spaces like the third which makes one gcr transfer in the middle logical and simple. 
    D1AC233B-7294-4ADC-9528-51E28FE47EC7.jpeg.decf562f3cd15c15c42ca071c2987e69.jpeg

     

    numbers on the outside with two gcr next to each other or alternate numbers and gcr branding? 
    ideas welcomed

    richard

    • Like 9
  6. Thanks for all the thoughts. Andy is right fox transfers for the crests, but the others are not water slide, they seem some sort of rub down style. I tried a first label like that and it adheres well, just a devil to position as Mr King has pointed out. So I do not think it is pressfix as we know it as most have been pointing out. I wondered if anyone else had had to fight with them before. 
    Also has anyone got a clear shot of the compartment side of the full first in either of these liveries as that is proving elusive for working out the positioning of the mid level detail. ( numbers/ name etc.) 

    many thanks for all your thoughts

    richard 

     

    • Like 2
  7. 47 minutes ago, Manxman1831 said:

    How old are the Pressfix transfers.  Certainly, whenever I've watched my dad doing them (and apart from one odd sheet in my own use) the transfer itself is usually printed on a thin sheet, that will lift away from the main backing paper - a sharp knife inserted between the carrier and the backer is all I tend to use.  A headtorch (in my own case attached to a magnifier) is usually enough to allow some degree of accurate placing - light shines through the paper, showing the silhouette of the transfer for placing.

    Alas there does not seem to be a carrier film. Most strange, that’s what making me get stuck. 
    richard 

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  8. 3 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

    Sad news chaps if you knew Peter Smith, Bigwordsmith:

    Hi everyone, this is Peter's daughter Gemma. I just wanted to inform everyone that Peter caught covid over Christmas, and after a short battle passed away on the 6th Jan.

    He was so keen on the Waverley route.

    RIP Smiffy.

    Phil

    Such a sad loss, he was such a tremendous modeler.

    Richard 

    • Friendly/supportive 3
  9. 6 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

    No trains tonight, I had a DEMU committee meeting on Zoom.

     

    Wot about the news Sutton Locomotive Works are going to make a class 25 with a late body. :locomotive::locomotive::locomotive:

     

    Perhaps Heljan will listen to those who say, have another look at photos of the real ones and your model.

     

     

    Late body!

    does that mean they send you the chassis first and then the body follows in a later parcel?

    richard 

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
    • Funny 7
  10. 5 hours ago, cctransuk said:

     

    Waterslide - old and cracked.

     

    You need this - https://www.models2u.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p8449_micro-liquid-decal-film.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtAjiPMAiGYpaVeCiCstWcVXB_iVNJ1CnBI0W-cjyQAmkaP5zl8JzRgaAoYXEALw_wcB

     

    Paint it over the transfer whilst still on the sheet, and allow to dry.

     

    The transfer should now work as intended but, if not, apply another coat of the liquid to the sheet.

     

    John Isherwood.

    Thanks for this, this might be just the answer to my problem. 
    richard 

  11. 3 hours ago, Chamby said:

     

    Hi Richard.  Your photo suggests that you are cutting through the full depth of support paper when using the transfers.  With HMRS transfers, the instructions advise scoring round the transfer with a sharp knife and lifting the tissue layer off the backing card... if you do this, the tissue is transparent and locating the transfer on the model is a doddle.   (I discovered this the hard way too!).  Lift the transfers like this:

     

    IMG_4352.jpg.29502c72c3e15ea1afe4973480db4b88.jpg

     

    Hope this helps?

     

    Phil.

    I had looked to do this but there does not seem to be this mid layer before the paper, to be able to lift them. I might try the wetting or shaving the paper so it gets more see through. 
    thank you for all the advice from everyone.

    richard 

  12. 4 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

    Thanks, Richard (or is it Prichard? :))

     

    I've had to have a wee think about how best to respond to you as I don't have any particular secret, except perhaps one, which I'll come to in a moment.  For the sandstone, the basic colour is a base of white with a touch of black to grey it slightly, then a little yellow and perhaps some 'leather' (Humbrol 62), all matt, of course, and with some thinner.  I generally don't mix them too thoroughly so that there is a slight unevenness in tone, nor am I particular in applying it very evenly.  Sometimes I might add a little more of one or other colour part way through to add variety, or between doing two buildings in the one block.

     

    After painting the quoins with this mix, the random stonework of the house in this block was done by first applying a grey coat and then, before that dries, 'dotting' randomly over it with the same colour with leather and/or darker brown, well thinned, so that it all tends to run together slightly.  Once everything is well dried, and this might be the secret, I dust it over with some very light grey powder paint using a soft artists brush (c size 6), tapping it off the brush onto the building and then brushing it off.  Both this house and parts of the other block had a light dust of burnt sienna in places.  I find the powder paint gives a 'stonier' look to it.  I leave it for the moisture in the air to 'fix' it.

     

    HTH,

     

    Jim

    It is richard, the computer for some reason auto corrects it as it believes Prichard is a more common choice. 
    in all things this sounds reasonably simple, however the skill is in the eye of the artist to know when it is “just right”. 
    richard 

  13. I have asked on wright writes too as it has a wider audience but help accepted here too. I am not getting on with these transfers. The water slide are old and break apart when lifted off the backing. The pressfix do not come away from the paper so you can see exactly where they need to line up. The writing on the paper does not exactly match the transfer. What do people paint on to save old transfers? What is the solution to the press fix ones?

    4F7183B6-639E-42C3-9E46-C1F3AA141900.jpeg.582ee737f106ef94874cc51157eba285.jpeg

    many thanks richard 

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  14. Help please.

    there was discussion on transfers on here so can someone help.

    I am not getting on with these transfers. The water slide are old and break apart when lifted off the backing. The pressfix do not come away from the paper so you can see exactly where they need to line up. The writing on the paper does not exactly match the transfer. What do people paint on to save old transfers? What is the solution to the press fix ones?

    2CDFEB7B-716C-4447-9408-9343085223A8.jpeg.5c5d3a205100bf1368610d76e3caf952.jpeg

    many thanks richard 

    • Friendly/supportive 3
  15. I give up. It looks like some were fairly consistent in how many crests, but the brake third has photos of the same side with three, Two or one crest, with two in different positions. That’s before we get started on the fact that sometimes the middle panels were painted brown. 
    I am go to plump with the clearest picture and then publish and accept the brick bats thrown. 
    richard 

    • Like 4
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