richard i

Transfers irritate me as they try to fall of models later in life when being handled. I have decided to try to do as much of the lining on this as possible with paint. Previously only the black outer line was masked in this way to paint. I have now tried the white tender buffer beam lining. more to follow as it becomes necessary. some will still be lined/ transfers. I am aware I do not have infinite ability. I would also be annoyed if it looked rubbish. let’s see how this goes. richard

Taping of the engine done. three or four hours to tape. It will take about five minutes to spray the green paint. I want to get it sprayed on one of the few remaining days before the weather completely turns. Fingers crossed richard

Most likely John quick’s loco with a barnum and a six wheeler. It made the GCRS forward magazine as photographed on little bythem too.

My dettingen layout is in oo. It is pre grouping GCR. richard

In discussion with John quick today we reckon the most likely option is black for the tender top. Green for the front top piece and black for the rest of the front. no red front. That was only for Atlantics, improved directors (maybe the originals too) and the Lord faringdons. lining on the D7 tender was limited to the double lined around the company name. Makes life easier. I will therefore paint it up like this. thanks for all thoughts. richard

Lner solebars red brown I think. richard

I apologize to anyone who is not a fisherman for opening this can of worms. I do however find it interesting so thank you for all the thoughts. I had not heard before of older paints not being waterproof. when did that start then? Some Older paint colours faded more easily, did the change happen at the same time when the paint faded less and became more waterproof. We need a chemist for that question. thanks richard

This is true but it would be nice to get the base right- if possible. Same reason I worked on the fireplaces in the buildings. Once weathered etc no one else might know it is there, but I will. richard

Thanks for the comments. as a class 2 it predates the 11b and the Atlantic and so would it have the same livery application. the models are interesting, they do have different livery application around the tender axle boxes and springs. I do have a colour image clearly showing red oxide on a black tender during BR days and the tender has a rear coal space divider. hence my questions. How transferable are those ideas. Thank you all for your input much food for thought richard

Use the one you have as a master and cast as many as you need. Richard

Thanks for the advice. I had looked at butler Henderson but was dubious due to other anomalies in its livery eg the letter sizing on the tender. I have looked at old postcards and some do a green front and some red. the other issue is that the coal space Carries through to the back and therefore would the coal space be Indian red? I know we should not copy a model but I am sure I have a photo somewhere which is of three model locos and the one with a tender without coal divide had red oxide as the whole tender top colour. I will paint other parts until I can square the circle in my head here. richard

Really? I thought that would look too orange.

What makes a good red oxide colour? we have light and dark brick and light and dark rust. main colour is light brick. The coal hopper is light rust. Then going backwards some dark rust then dark brick. I am leaning towards the light or dark brick. red oxide 1910 style rather than 2023 style…if that makes a difference. Any views gratefully received thanks richard

The end result for the two colours. A subtle effect but noticeable. now the brush painted colours. richard

Reverse painting in action. paint black and then mask off the black parts. spray green and wait to peel away the masking tape. I came to this way by mistake as the green did not look deep enough on a previous model. So I sprayed black, at which point covering that and spraying green seemed more efficient than spraying the green and then having to reapply the black. loco to come once it has been masked up.

I will look at it again. It will depend on if it fits with the engine in place. richard

That method was my original intention. I will have a go at making a set. There is some debate over their colour, some suggest bufferbeam red others Indian red, others polished metal. I might try to find nickel silver to see if I can replicate the polished steel look. richard

Things have gone dark. I do the black first and then use thin masking tape to cover it before respraying green to give the outer line of black on the green panels. then the buffer stocks. As they are a different colour to the beam I thought I would paint them separately to give a crisp divide of colour. I did notice that these locos have guard irons. Don’t know how I missed it when building. I will need to make some….or will I? this piece was included in the kit of parts, to me it looks like it can be cut in the middle and make the guardirons. Am I imagining this? richard

The chassis fits together with the motor. that was not always a given. then proof it still fits inside the body though it seems it will need a steeper angle than I expected to fit in the space. need to work out that angle and solder on a support wire to hold it in place. richard

I enjoy finding solutions. the bogie has side play. I fear under power it will allow the front end to wander around. aiming to engineer best running from the start. I feel it needs to have some spring side to side. would a bent wire give this or would it be too strong? curved wire? only real springs do? a wire running out of the main chassis to the centre line of the bogie? thoughts? Anybody have a preferred method they use which is successful? thanks richard

§€£¥###@### ! trying to make sure the whole thing is at the correct ride height. the running plate was a tiny bit curved. Possibly from storing and moving it in the box of bits for the loco so many times. Tried to see if it would straighten. turns out not. clean breaks so I will look to use the boiler to offer it strength. Perhaps a brass over lap on the back of the join to add more strength. fingers crossed it works. richard

Foreign office?

I do try, though it is always slow and steady. I can never seem to do the speed modeling that some others manage. Denny scratch built an engine in about a week! I do need to play around with the fit of the chassis as the wheels seem to hit the splashed top. I must have over compensated for ride height. I need to check this. ( or did you fit undersized drivers? - ssssssh I promise not to tell if you did.) great idea. The simple ones are usually the best. Clive I will take your advice on board and follow Jim’s ideas. thanks one and all richard

Such small steps recently. Had to make a chassis. Which some leave like that. Not admitting the planning of shape, placement of frame spacers and motor gearbox combo. Brakes etc. it looks like this. and plonked together. much still to do, even though it looks nearly there. How do people ensure it goes in the right direction when power is applied with insulated wheels, wiring to motor etc.? thanks for looking Richard

Surely if it will go down, it can come up as the up side is a shallower radius than the down helix. richard