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richard i

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Everything posted by richard i

  1. Have started looking at the drawings and pieces to get the cogs turning. I like to think on things for a short while in the background and then attack them when an idea crystallizes to solve the problems. thank you for letting me have the pieces to play with. richard
  2. Roofs went ok, mixture of rattle can after masking and touch up with brush painting. The rattle can gave more trouble, but result looks a little like the covering roofs got so not unhappy. that’s a good question, i have done more measurements and am erring on the larger size. Thanks for the link, as said above the larger size look more likely. however where to place them? Photos and drawings conflict. here is my evidence so far. I will start with the more clear evidenced ones and then look for more proof of the others. enough questi
  3. Pictures as promised The first and third, then the brake first taking centre stage and lastly the buffet to the fore. The d&s third lurking in the background. Fit the windows and transfers to complete. At Times I did not think they would get this far. it is good to see them finally coming together. richard
  4. Measuring the top one magnified it comes out at 24mm is the panel so divide by 4 crest is 16mm so divide by 4 is 4mm this leaves us no closer as it is halfway between What I measured but neared small. But in this picture looks like the bigger ones. I wish I had true dimensions. however leave the picture small it is 6mm and crest looks to be 5 mm thoughts? richard
  5. Better images for working it out? any opinions gratefully received. richard
  6. Transfers time but which size? Small are 3.5mm large are 5 mm and the panel side is 6mm. the photo seems to suggest they almost fill the panel, so the large ones. I only doubt myself because in my head when I started the build I imagined it would be the small ones. oh and in other news the roofs are now painted. Pictures to follow. richard
  7. Buffet roof altered with vents in place. two torpedo vents might need removing, it has been detective work by a few people to work out what it exactly looks like. very busy any which way you model it. richard
  8. Taking advice from here I tried turning up the vents. 2mm wide by 3mm long. You might just be able to make out the bumps from the different cuts. the circle it is on is about an inch and a half diameter. It also shows I should clean my coaster more often. failure rate was quite high, either they pinged off when I cut too deep or the discs were too wide. So about ten made gives three ok ones. It is though about 10p worth of plastic rod and my time so much cheaper than buying bespoke ones ( if they even exist) sorry traders. jim I will follow up on your advice once these are fit
  9. You put them on eBay and then retire to a private island on the money you will make.
  10. Great to see train time, it seems slowly more and more stock is getting finished. I know others are following in multicolours, but it is really coming together. richard
  11. Just out of interest, why could you not get the lanky tank conversion to work? I had been eyeing it up as a possible route to save paying the 100 or so quid for the unbuilt kits. many thanks richard
  12. Few pictures of late because it has mostly been a case of chasing the line which separates the French grey from the brown. (some wet paint here) first the brown and then the French grey but then it covers over some brown so more French grey. However a small slip and then the brown again. And so on and on. To keep the colour consistent a panel needs doing for each slip. cleaning the door handles some paint chips off so repeat the process. no need to mention lining. Tried it and discounted it. It leaves ridge lines. next the roofs. To spray ( in this weather and all that
  13. Thanks, you always seem to find kits of the esoteric which makes this thread all the more interesting. richard
  14. Which is? looks like a circus props van or similar. richard
  15. GT3. Yes it appeared in BRM, but it is packed away at the moment in the garage so can not prove it exists. richard
  16. I had half tried this and it was hard to get thin and consistent cuts and to have them stick to the rod at consistent distance apart. I am pleased to see there might be mileage in the rod in the mini drill trick. I guess using a file to make the cuts? richard
  17. I will need to make three of the large vents, 2 can be seen here. ( not the torpedo ones) I have tried building them. I can see that brass rod in a lathe could be turned to make nice ones. No brass rod, and no lathe. I have plasticard but in a turned in a drill end I can see this all going wrong. It is really 2mm discs spaced apart slightly on 1.5mm rod. ideas? richard
  18. I was held up to the window on some non corridor stock in Germany for a pee by my mother in the mid 70s aged about three. I cursed the day my own kids could have done with the same ability when traveling on commuter trains home. All sealed windows and doors. Fortunately later NJ transit double deckers had one car with a loo. Even my wife got good a spotting which one that was to ensure kids could relieve themselves before getting in the car after a day in NYC. No public loos in NYC either so a real minefield of a day with three little ones. Richard
  19. Not as effective as pink all over but then they thought it would be bad for sailors morale. it was meant to make it hard to work out shape and therefore distance to target / direction target moving in for the u boats.
  20. Paint fumes in the house, I feel your pain. I spray in the shed with the heater on, she minds less about that because it is used by the kids rather than her normally. richard
  21. Any one know the colour of tail lamps and side lamps on brake coaches in gcr days. I have a nagging feeling it is buffer beam red but I do not know why. Also the lenses on the side lamps were both red or forward clear and rear facing red? any help gratefully received. richard
  22. To get round tighter curves you could file back the front faces of the front and back wheels to give the wheels more sideways movement. Even tighter you could juggle the frames behind the front and back wheels or fit narrower spacers all along the chassis to give more side play. You would also want to think about crank pin retaining nuts as there will need to be more slop here too. Ultimately you could have a centre driver which is flangeless. Triang did and the 9f on the real railway. however a lot of my answer is: why would you. 600mm is 2ft radius which is what even the rtr folks build t
  23. Roofs will all get mucky in the same way. Colour difference is length out of works not the company they belong to. I use precision br roof colour which seems to give a dirty grey colour. Even though it says it is for post 48 stock only. richard
  24. These are in the pipeline. Just as a lone modeler building most locos, all carriages and wagons plus the layout buildings etc. it is taking a while. The problem of kids and a job, they get in the way of modeling time. richard
  25. You are right in all observations. If run together the French grey would be more weathered. However, I will run trains in distinct periods as this transition era modeling really plays with my ocd. So the French grey will be set just after the London extension opened with fresh clean carriages with new locos. Or that is the plan. richard
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