[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

21 minutes ago, gr.king said:

Presumably not 110V at the track...

No but it went into the transformers so a max of 6v came out. Not enough for some old motors and the points went across very slowly.

it was also 50amps not 13 but my electric knowledge is not good enough to know if that makes any difference beyond how far it knocks you across the room if you touch it.

richard

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

I had the dream team around to address issues with the layout from trips across the Atlantic and being forced to run on 110v for 5 years. 

Whilst it has run in BR steam condition this is the moment the first GCR only sequence is able to be started. Fittingly it is the inspection saloon.

thank you Clive and Andy.

richard

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Transfers irritate me as they try to fall of models later in life when being handled.

I have decided to try to do as much of the lining on this as possible with paint. Previously only the black outer line was masked in this way to paint. I have now tried the white tender buffer beam lining.

more to follow as it becomes necessary.

some will still be lined/ transfers. I am aware I do not have infinite ability. I would also be annoyed if it looked rubbish.

let’s see how this goes.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Taping of the engine done. 
three or four hours to tape. It will take about five minutes to spray the green paint.

I want to get it sprayed on one of the few remaining days before the weather completely turns. 
Fingers crossed

richard 

[Wright writes.....]

10 hours ago, A Murphy said:

Tony, didn't you also run a GC special for the GCRS a few years back? 

 

Best wishes,

 

Alastair M

Most likely John quick’s loco with a barnum and a six wheeler. It made the GCRS forward magazine as photographed on little bythem too. 

[Wright writes.....]

My dettingen layout is in oo. It is pre grouping GCR.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

In discussion with John quick today we reckon the most likely option is black for the tender top. Green for the front top piece and black for the rest of the front. 

no red front. That was only for Atlantics, improved directors (maybe the originals too) and the Lord faringdons.
lining on the D7 tender was limited to the double lined around the company name. Makes life easier.

I will therefore paint it up like this.

thanks for all thoughts.

richard 

[Wright writes.....]

Lner solebars red brown I think.

richard  

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

I apologize to anyone who is not a fisherman for opening this can of worms. I do however find it interesting so thank you for all the thoughts. 
I had not heard before of older paints not being waterproof. when did that start then? Some Older paint colours faded more easily, did the change happen at the same time when the paint faded less and became more waterproof. We need a chemist for that question.

thanks

richard
 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

6 hours ago, billbedford said:

There are two things to remember here. One is that the Parker and Pollit tenders were built without coal guards and thus division plates. So tanktops were just one space. The other is that if five tons of coal is dumped on top of the tender every couple of days, whatever colour it's painted, it will become various shades of black fairly quickly, that is apart from the shiny/rusty bits where all the paint has gone. 

This is true but it would be nice to get the base right- if possible. Same reason I worked on the fireplaces in the buildings. Once weathered etc no one else might know it is there, but I will.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Thanks for the comments. 
as a class 2 it predates the 11b and the Atlantic and so would it have the same livery application. 
the models are interesting, they do have different livery application around the tender axle boxes and springs. 
I do have a colour image clearly showing red oxide on a black tender during BR days and the tender has a rear coal space divider.

hence my questions. How transferable are those ideas. Thank you all for your input

much food for thought

richard 

[Wright writes.....]

2 hours ago, polybear said:

Hello Tony/All,

 

This is a long shot (a very long shot)......

 

I'm currently building one of Jim McGeown's 4mm Wagon Kits (an LNER 20T Tube/Pipe Wagon - sadly no longer available as Jim doesn't sell 4mm kits anymore).

 

Unfortunately five of the eight door spring(?) damper(?) support(?) castings weren't cast very well and were unusable 😢;  they look like this:

 

 

 

The castings fit between the lower edges of the doors and the solebars - they can be clearly seen on the 7mm version:

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon Kit Pages/LNER Fitted Tube Wagon.html

 

I hope to ask Jim if he might just happen to have a 4mm castings spares box (highly unlikely after all this time I suspect) but I might just get very lucky.

 

So my question is:  Does anyone know where I might get suitable alternatives please?  (I've looked at the Wizard Models website with no luck)

I'd like a minimum of 8 if possible (a few extra would be very nice as there's a high chance the carpet god may try to claim some) to ensure they all match.

 

Many thanks

Use the one you have as a master and cast as many as you need.

 Richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Thanks for the advice. 
I had looked at butler Henderson but was dubious due to other anomalies in its livery eg the letter sizing on the tender. 
I have looked at old postcards and some do a green front and some red. 
the other issue is that the coal space Carries  through to the back and therefore would the coal space be Indian red?

I know we should not copy a model but I am sure I have a photo somewhere which is of three model locos and the one with a tender without coal divide had red oxide as the whole tender top colour. 
I will paint other parts until I can square the circle in my head here.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

6 hours ago, jimwal said:

What you have in the coal chute area looks fairly good Richard.

Really? I thought that would look too orange.

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

What makes a good red oxide colour?

we have light and dark brick and light and dark rust.

main colour is light brick. The coal hopper is light rust. Then going backwards some dark rust then dark brick.

I am leaning towards the light or dark brick.

red oxide 1910 style rather than 2023 style…if that makes a difference.

Any views gratefully received 

thanks

richard

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

The end result for the two colours.

A subtle effect but noticeable.

now the brush painted colours.

richard

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Reverse painting in action.

paint black and then mask off the black parts.

spray green and wait to peel away the masking tape.

I came to this way by mistake as the green did not look deep enough on a previous model. So I sprayed black, at which point covering that and spraying green seemed more efficient than spraying the green and then having to reapply the black.

loco to come once it has been masked up.

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

I will look at it again. It will depend on if it fits with the engine in place. 
richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

2 hours ago, gr.king said:

That grey part is nothing that I recognise. I have no idea what it might be or where it originated. I now make my main guard irons from a single strip of metal, bent to a goal-post shape, with the two uprights filed to guard-iron shape, the cross-bar drilled and screwed into a couple of small solid blocks behind the buffer beam. I wouldn't trust resin guard irons to survive use and handling.

That method was my original intention. I will have a go at making a set. There is some debate over their colour, some suggest bufferbeam red others Indian red, others polished metal. I might try to find nickel silver to see if I can replicate the polished steel look.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

Things have gone dark.

I do the black first and then use thin masking tape to cover it before respraying green to give the outer line of black on the green panels.

then the buffer stocks. As they are a different colour to the beam I thought I would paint them separately to give a crisp divide of colour.

I did notice that these locos have guard irons. Don’t know how I missed it when building. I will need to make some….or will I?

this piece was included in the kit of parts, to me it looks like it can be cut in the middle and make the guardirons. Am I imagining this?

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

The chassis fits together with the motor.

that was not always a given.

then proof it still fits inside the body

though it seems it will need a steeper angle than I expected to fit in the space.

need to work out that angle and solder on a support wire to hold it in place.

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

I enjoy finding solutions.

the bogie has side play. I fear under power it will allow the front end to wander around.

aiming to engineer best running from the start.

 

I feel it needs to have some spring side to side. 
would a bent wire give this or would it be too strong? 
curved wire?

only real springs do?

a wire running out of the main chassis to the centre line of the bogie?

 

thoughts? Anybody have a preferred method they use which is successful?

thanks

richard 

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

§€£¥###@###   !

trying to make sure the whole thing is at the correct ride height. 
the running plate was a tiny bit curved. Possibly from storing and moving it in the box of bits for the loco so many times. Tried to see if it would straighten.

turns out not.

clean breaks so I will look to use the boiler to offer it strength. Perhaps a brass over lap on the back of the join to add more strength.

fingers crossed it works.

richard 

[Wright writes.....]

18 minutes ago, Jesse Sim said:

Do the letters FO mean anything to you? 

Foreign office?

[Dettingen GCR might have been layout]

3 hours ago, gr.king said:

Looks a neat job Richard  👍

I do try, though it is always slow and steady. I can never seem to do the speed modeling that some others manage. Denny scratch built an engine in about a week!

I do need to play around with the fit of the chassis as the wheels seem to hit the splashed top. I must have over compensated for ride height. I need to check this. ( or did you fit undersized drivers? - ssssssh I promise not to tell if you did.)

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

 

I have a Really Useful Engine to accompany it and make sure it goes in the right direction.

great idea. The simple ones are usually the best.

 

Clive I will take your advice on board and follow Jim’s ideas.

 

thanks one and all

richard