Jump to content

richard i

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by richard i

  1. By the other one did you mean this one? would make a great little coach. There must be a drawing for it somewhere. I will look, it would be great to have both. richard
  2. It did, those fancy scrolls are the sides so you could get on to the next carriage/ wagon in the train without stepping down. ....or step of an end loading dock as here, or just get much closer to the ballast as the train rolls on. The other end does not have these. richard
  3. Directors saloon, you have my attention. It will happily run along side the gcr railcar I built from your 3d print. I was going to have to scratchbuild it, but you have saved that hassle. many thanks richard
  4. It’s true, many an honest feedback given. I had the brake gear pulled off my o4 because I had glued it on and was told to go away and solder it on properly. In fairness if it had been left super glued on it might not still be with the loco today. With two elder brothers and a boarding school education I was going to develop a fairly thick skin which came in handy. Under it all I knew it came from the right place no matter how it might have been phrased. richard
  5. Retracted gangways different width plasticard to look like the bellows, paper on top and brass front. Depth of plasticard was 0.25 and 0.5 alternating. not perfectly accurate but once mucky black and at speed..... richard
  6. A long list of of half done projects, I know that feeling. That’s why I try now to be disciplined and focus on one project at a time. It does not mean I don’t have a list which is quite long of future builds. richard
  7. That is a nice steam railmotor. I have a soft spot for them, not sure why.
  8. Carriage axle boxes and springs are the poor relation as wagon ones are definitely available. So a source for those would be great. The 3d print ones I think are from Mike trice, but I could be wrong. They are cosmetic sides so need a sub structure. it is really not intrusive. If it is in any way connected and helps someone then happy to have comments on the thread. I enjoy seeing others work as it spurs on my builds / standards. I have enjoyed some of your builds immensely. richard
  9. Streak lines in the clear might work in your favour as it will look like the uneven deposits of ash and soot / water run off which build up on a clean loco. As long as the lines go top to bottom to replicate gravity. richard
  10. Word on the street is that Worsley works are shrinking the 7mm suburbans they do down to 4mm and these will be available for 40pds each which seems reasonable to me for all etched bits floor and above. Drop him a line if interested. The more gcr people are buying the more who are going to want to make stuff to support it...........like 6ft, 8ft, 10ft6 bogies.......hint hint any manufacturers out there. Richard
  11. Thank you for these, as always some curve balls in there for bogies. I will have to look and see if any need different bogies as they are all on 8ft ones. Though if it is only 8ft6 I might ignore it, will anyone notice that little. I base mine around fox bogies of different lengths mostly from dart castings, which I add to to make them look right. I pick the most simple so that I have the least to cut back. Though these mostly have brass ones designed by Gibbs. richard
  12. I have not got as far as running numbers. I cross bridges as I come to them. I was going to look in photos, unless he has a list on the sheet. richard
  13. Thanks that lines up with the change is styles known from elsewhere, however, I do think he is being slightly short hand on the layout of the painting as there is clearly more brown in the cream days. I am going to settle on the arrangement I have in the post above, as it looks near correct, though the confirmation of lining colours is useful. Richard
  14. Circling round to weathering and the discussion morphing into pregrouping carriages. I happily weathered the dubdee but later Tony has admonished me for my pristine gcr carriages. I thought about it as I applied the second colour to this. now it needs cleaning up and between another 2 and 4 colours need to be applied to the side depending on how precise I want it,( up against what I am capable of doing). After all that I am not sure I want to hide it all behind grot. Even Tony admits to tempering weathering on a professional paint job. Now I know this is professional but it is takin
  15. Change of plan. I went with paint light colour and worry about dark one if necessary. this is as far as I got. I think the neatness is improving. It certainly looks more gcr. now touch up the brown and add any other colour as needed. unless anyone has more/ better suggestions. I am trying to get it to look good. behind the double doors handles in that panel - grey? richard
  16. Anyone taken 'extreme' weathering to this level on their models? Now Tony do we really need to ask that question? One clean Austerity shown at a club night, and one phrase of, “ it will need to be weathered to run on Stoke.” Led to one austerity which it is rumoured might once have been black. richard
  17. There is certainly far more detail there. Now to fill it with coal, but not so high that it covers all the detail just fitted. richard
  18. I like the last couple of posts. Carriages being built. The last definitely showing why they ended up being called carriages. great work there, more power to your elbows. richard
  19. I think I might have a solution to the cream window surrounds. James linked to a pen which could draw a 0.25 line which I could draw in once the window frame is painted a varnished wood. Thus getting two colours on something only 0.5mm wide. Maybe. I might do one side totally to see if it works and necessary go to plan C or D which ever we are up to now. richard
  20. The diners are very closely related and that close up photo of the window does give much food for thought about the way forward. I want to ultimately do 2 of them in brown and cream to match the dining set in that livery when I can get that set together. I like consistency of livery along a trains length though can have different liveries on different rakes of carriages. Though if I really can’t get it to work / live with the result I will have to look at doing them in French grey.......or mahogany.
  21. Thanks, this is sort of the method I was trying though I think my paint was thicker than you are suggesting. richard
  22. Better off with French grey. I keep thinking that as the livery gets more and more complicated. But then where would we be without a challenge. richard
  23. Thanks for your take on it. I just feel I am missing something as my side, ( yet to be cleaned up), seems to be too brown. That is the colour which hits me first, where as in the photos I see a lot more cream. if so what of what is brown on the model should also be cream? A line under the windows? If so how does that relate to the panels and the uprights? any thoughts gratefully received. This might be why some modelers do not paint their carriages, it saves these questions needing to be raised. richard
  24. Thanks, standard practice to have firsts at the London end for most railways. now I have another issue. Looking at painting. How long do carriages carry a paint job? I ask because I can find pictures in French grey and brown and in varnished wood, but am struggling to find definitive pictures in brown and cream. Built 1900 ish. Brown and cream comes in 1903/4 so too early for a repaint but varnished wood from 1910 so would they make the jump from first livery to third? 10 years between reprints? what I thought of as brown and cream have cream below the windows but not on the rai
  25. That is a great find. As I don’t smoke the lighter fluid would need to be found. Could be a fun experiment. And at just over thirty smackers not an outrageous purchase. thank you richard
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.