Jump to content

grob1234

Members
  • Posts

    769
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by grob1234

  1. Lovely sweet sound coming from the Mogul there Frank. Definitely no wasted effort for a loco that runs as sweetly as that one. Hungerford is a layout I would love to see, so I am very hopeful you will get an invite, and shows start to become more common. I'm also incredibly impressed with your etching. Very crisp. 3 hours a day modelling... I'm lucky if I manage 3 minutes!
  2. Looks fantastic Frank and a nice enjoyable account of what you’ve done to date. Sadly my modelling time has been drastically reduced with my new work schedule but I live in hope of snatching a few hours at the bench from time to time.
  3. I worked that out subsequently, after building my own C1 (albeit in OO) because I incorporated too much unnecessary side play in the leading axle which in turn gave me clearance issues with the rods. I really like those flush fitting crankpin nuts too, they're great. Are they ultrascale too?
  4. Super stuff Frank. I suppose you have the luxury of not needing any side play on the leading coupled axle, nor much need for any on the rear either with the wheel base being so short.
  5. So for me, its about the 'tone' of the brown. The cleaner box on the right (look at the roof too) is more of an ex works colour IMO. The one on the left is definitely grubbier. I'm not sure the 'yellower' teak version somtimes modelled, would weather down to either of the colours in the photo.... Yes - gives justification for my pigeon van which is decideedly dark!
  6. Ah heres the photo scroll down to the pacific 2548 its there: https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches#close
  7. Its a similar colour to what Steve Banks has used as well on his website, and has also posted pictures of 'in real life' - perhaps what you're referring to in your book, Jonathan? https://www.steve-banks.org/modelling/131-gcr-lner-horse-box He does have a picture of a horsebox in colour, nestling behind a loco, but I can't find it ATM. I've got an almost identical horsebox, from a D&S kit that I'm just finishing, and I'll be going for a similar shade - more for variety than anything else
  8. Humbrol Gloss white - as per your 'good book'. The tender was done with a normal haff 228 ruling pen. I have found in use (probably my technique rather than anything else) that the blades are flexible, or rather, too flexible, which results in a sometimes slightly inconsistent line. Following some experiments, I found the much shorter blades of the bow compass to be far more consistent, and that is what I have used to make the decals for the boiler bands, which I feel are much more consistent. I've bought a new pot of gloss 22, though I prefer the older paint in the traditional humbrol tins, as I think the make up of the paint has changed over time. I'tt try the new stuff and see how I get on. I'm also considering a new pen, perhaps the cheaper 629, which looks to have shorter blades and presumably less 'whippy' than the finer 133AK. Any feedback always more than welcome
  9. I suppose a lot of that is personal preferance. I feel it looks about as good as I'm going to get since A) I have never seen a 'true' doncaster 1930's green loco, and B) comparing any colour to a photo is frought with danger. Having said that, next time I paint, I might add a few drops of yellow into the green to perhaps try and represent a slightly sun faded loco. As always, subtlety is the key.
  10. It's Phoenix Precision Paints Doncaster Green. Lovely paint.
  11. Managing any modelling time? I'm squeezing a little in in the evenings. Only trouble is that the modelling room is next to where my little boy sleeps, so I can't really do much painting with the airbrush!! I tend to set up a secondary temporary soldering station on the kitchen table after dinner, which works well
  12. Here's my example of a lined C1 3283. My first attempt and techniques from the accepted book on the subject. I found the Haff pen I was using too flexible, giving me inconsistent lines (probably due to uneven pressure on my behalf). So I used the much shorter compass pen, and made a suitable handle out of brass. Here are the results, obviously it needs weathering etc, which is what I'm doing now.
  13. Really enjoying seeing this come along. Super stuff.
  14. I fairly recently ordered a LNER group standard tender for my V2. Always really enjoyed dealing with Dave at SEF. A real gent, and a credit to the hobby. I'm not sure what the 'Nu Cast' range includes, but hopefully I'll do business with him again soon.
  15. Am I alone in loving the 'colour tones' in the older film colour pictures? Although modern digital cameras are able to capture wonderfully sharp images, for me there is something about the perfect imperfection that film images display, that adds to the atmosphere. I also love the colour images of F1 in the 50's and 60's too.
  16. Basic drawing here. LNER Info. A4 Cab. Massive smokebox. Looks makeable?
  17. Very nice Tom. 7mm as well! You won't regret your conversion of the streamlined P2. I made a W1, and there is no chance I'd swap it for the Hornby one.
  18. Just a quick one from me regarding the discussion back in June/July about the Comet V2 chassis which I’ve had a few issues with. It merely backs up what others have said, so builders beware!! There is a problem with the motion assembly on the comet chassis. The relationship between the motion support and the slide bars was all wrong as I initially built it. Additionally, the crosshead was interfering with the front of the slide bars at the most forward portion of travel. After much swearing and cursing, (oh bother, and damn you for example) I did a bit of research, and found that the slide bars were about 2mm too long. So, I unsoldered them, lopped off 2mm and refitted them. Next was to tackle the motion support bracket. Measuring off the isinglass drawing, showed the depth of these to be about 8mm. Mine were closer to 10mm. So, I re bent the brackets, and trimmed off the excess. Now I feel that the relationship is correct (or less wrong) and the motion support bracket just touches the end of the slide bars. Now I just need to repaint the cylinder castings as the paint bubbled with all the extra soldering I was doing, and then refit the valve gear. Simple. And the finished article, much better I think. Let's hope it works.
  19. Hello Despite not posting much, I have been busy in any spare time I’m lucky enough to get, and have been making progress with various projects. I like to have a few on the go at any one time, as I find that I come up against natural barriers in construction. I then leave that project, and come back to it in a few days, and the problem often seems to solve itself. One thing I have been working on is the chassis for the V2. I’ve installed pick-ups to one side, and have also installed pick-ups to the outer tender wheels using DCC concepts pick up pads. They worked quite well and give a neat result. The power from the tender is fed through a micro JST connector and to the loco. I think its quite useful the show the underside of a chassis as this is how it actually works. In the loco, I have fitted a high-level high flier gearbox and a great big Mashima round can motor. There is a problem with the motion assembly with the comet chassis. The relationship between the motion support and the slide bars was all wrong as I initially built it. Additionally, the crosshead was interfering with the front of the slide bars at the most forward portion of travel. After much swearing and cursing, I did a bit of research, and found that the slide bars were about 2mm too long. So, I unsoldered them, lopped off 2mm and refitted them. Next was to tackle the motion support bracket. Measuring off the isinglass drawing, showed the depth of these to be about 8mm. Mine were closer to 10mm. So, I re bent the brackets, and trimmed off the excess. Now I feel that the relationship is correct (or less wrong) and the motion support bracket just touches the end of the slide bars. Now I just need to repaint the cylinder castings as the paint bubbled with all the extra soldering I was doing, and then refit the valve gear. Simple.
  20. Hi Tom, If memory serves correctly, I used Pheonix P56 for the bogies and skirts, and P54 for the main body colour. It's all a little bit iffy, as any colour renditions/pictures of the coaches show a great variation in tone. Best to go with what you 'feel' is correct. Either way, you can be guaranteed that someone will disagree
  21. I have to say that for a model of a human (is that right, Tony?!) that must be all of an inch tall, it does look EXACTLY like you. Incredible really!
  22. Hi Frank Didn't know you started this thread, so I'm very happy to have found it. Hope you had a good Christmas and New Year. Very much looking forward to your work bench updates.
  23. Pempoul looks to me the most natural of layouts. An incredible standard of modelling.
×
×
  • Create New...