grob1234

Hello. Back to modelling, and something I finally finished. Seeing as my New Years Resolution is to finish what I've started, then this fits the bill nicely. It's a D&S GNR Horsebox, number 265. I made it out of the box, just adding wheels and vac fittings. Beautiful fit, with complicated instructions! I sprayed it, and weathered it, and used methfix transfers and some from John Peck, commissioned by @jwealleans. Hope you like! Edit - Jonathan has just pointed out my (deliberate) mistake with the roof vents, they should be rotated 90 degrees. Too late for this model sadly, but something to look out for next time.

Would make a good time-team special. They could geo phys (whatever that is) the front garden to unearth the mysterious little train. Bonus points if they connect the hole in the wall with the model. Then they could link it to some ritual practise millennial man had, whereas they’ll never know that the bloody thing simply didn’t work properly!

Corrected for you...

The last time I smashed something was a model Concorde I was building. I'd got a glass like white gloss finish on the model, and had masked off the tail to spray on the 'Landor' tail livery. To prevent overspray, I decided to clingfilm the body. Good plan I thought. However, due to the humidity in Hong Kong, the white paint bubbled, ruining the glass like finish I had previously achieved. The model collided with the edge of the workbench (as it deserved at the time), with such force that it became a collection of warped and broken plastic, complete with bubbly paint finish. That was a good 6-7 years ago now, and I vowed to never do it again. I've been close, but so far have managed to restrain myself!

I like to think of myself primarily as a mistake corrector, model maker second. Knowing when to put said model down, before it takes a one way trip out the window is something I have learned over the years too…

That's exactly what I do. Apply the blackening agent to the rods prior to assembly, and polish with a glass fibre brush. As you mention, it helps resist solder too, an added bonus with the valve gear!

Glaze for me.

I shall be following this one with interest, Tony. I looked at these at the GETS and was quite impressed, especially with the range of products on offer, and apparent ease of construction. Looks like the roof could use a light sanding? I assume you'll replace the undersides with brass...?

Yes I use a 2mm chisel tipped bit for 99% of my work, and a 1mm chisel tip for the rest. I believe the pointy ones are for very fine electrical soldering work on PCB's ect but I'm more than happy to stand corrected!

It's a lovely video by a very pleasant chap by the looks of it.... 🤪 I get on with the high level boxes very well, can't speak for other makes as I have not tried them.

Hi Charlie I attended on the Saturday, and felt the same as you about the standard of the layouts on show. There were some very nice examples, but most if not all required the hand of god to appear in order to fix poor running. I thought Pete Watermans layout was very good, and when I was watching, nothing fell off the track. There was a very nice O Gauge Layout, which showcased the bulk of the locomotives in that scale very well. One thing I recognised was the importance of good lighting - the hall was very dark in my opinion, and the best layouts were the ones with the best lighting. Although I bought my wallet along with me, I purchased nothing. As you say, lots of very shiny boxes, but no kits that I could see, with the exception of Isinglass. I was impressed with their 3d printed coaches, and due to the size of their range, I'll certainly be buying in the near future. Little Bytham is a worthy winner - it luxuriates in not having to travel around, so that could be one reason for the good running - it certainly makes it fun to play with!

Good morning. Anyone off to Milton Keynes for the show today? It'll be the first show I have attended in over 4 years so I'm really looking forward to it, especially as modelling season is approaching! I'll be milling about somewhere! Maybe see some of you later on. Kind regards Tom

Yes exactly that. Also occurs with digital filming. I have some cheap led lights specifically for filming and there is no flicker visible on the video. However, I have an expensive LED task lamp, which is excellent for what its intended, but if used for filming produces flicker. There are flicker free LED tube lamps, however, obviously they are more expensive. I wonder if its to do with the frequency of the light produced by the LED's?

I have personally found filling out the order form and posting it off to him yields good results, and probably for him means he can spend less time on the order. I leave the price/total blank and trust that he'll tot it up and charge my card accordingly. Probably not ideal if you live abroad (as I did previously - in which case I phoned up and eventually had a good conversation with Mark). It's far from ideal and we are all used to placing orders online and getting the stuff next day, but this is one of those that's different, and actually I quite like it! Just persevere and it'll happen eventually.

With regards to tumblehomes (is that correct?), I use these: Simply a wooden bit of wood (!) with a rounded edge. Its then clamped on the top, then you use a hard straight edge like a worktop and gradually bend. There's zero risk of kink, and it is very repeatable. I have 2 different radii, however I just use one of them as I don't find it makes much difference.

Well done Frank, looks delightful. Glad you managed to overcome past setbacks and get this one complete (construction wise at least!)

A very happy Christmas to Tony, Mo and all the WW contributors over the year. The best railway modelling thread on the 'net!

I'm sure you never went over 50 in the McLaren....

Hi all, I got this comment on one of my videos... thought it would be good to see what the good people here have to say in regards to this.... "Nice, but I gave up building loco kits, because as exampled here, the (Mashima ?) motor although good quality is too small & will not be powerful enough to haul 12 car trains reliably, or smoothly enough. What's needed is a Coreless motor, which obviates trying to find space for a flywheel. Coreless motors are roughly twice the power of an equivalently sized poled motor ! But you also need a BEVEL gearbox to allow a Coreless motor to "run on" (coast to a halt). Sadly I'm not aware of any coreless motors or bevel gearboxes available for kit builders anymore, at least in OO or smaller gauges. In other words it becomes pointless wasting hundreds of hours building a beautiful kit model, if it can't be fitted with an equivalently beautiful and powerful mechanism !!!!" My response was that the loco (a DJH A1) will haul 15 kit built carriages with ease. Which it will... so not sure why I would need a coreless motor?

Fantastic images, thank you for sharing. Looking forward to Mr Kings description in due course. I'm expecting words like resin, custom, modified and scratch built.....

But if it works....

Yes it was all to do with that photobucket thing. I have added a 'job lot' as I cant be bothered to insert them in the right place!

As my chosen modelling period is represented in recent photographs, I cannot get enough of them. Thank you for sharing, it looked like a fantastic weekend.

Gentlemen, it looks tremendous. What a treat to see the images, and get that real feeling of 1930's elegance. I'm hopeful to be able to see it in the flesh at some point again in the future. Keep up the great work. Tom