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Junctionmad

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  1. Just in relation to ABC. You can get issues where metal wheels in the stock following the loco bridge the ABC track section and non ABC sections , causing errant behaviour and failure to stop. I’ve had to place very short insulated sections in between the two sections to prevent such issues , but it’s not a complete success , double heading ,carriage light pickups can all cause confusion
  2. Just by way of illustration. My friend has a large OO gauge fixed layout , 18by 12 , multiple levels all code 100 insulfrog it was DC with conventional isolating sections etc. He connected the dcc feed to the track and closed all the section /isolating switches dcc working fine now ( nce ) for several years is it best practice dcc wiring , god no. Does it work , absolutely dcc does not require u to do anything special if U don’t want to.
  3. No you just need the transistor circuit, per point , the capacitors can drive as many points as you need , the leds can be removed if not required hence you have a few jelly bean components per point to derive the advantage of low currents through the switches you do need a 2x transistor for each point
  4. All you ever need to know about CDUs. Near the end there’s a nice circuit that uses transistors to switch the CDU rather then the switches directly ( choice number 9) http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/75 Model Railway Projects/75 Model Railway Projects.html#Points PartB quite a nice circuit as it uses standard toggles and provides mimic panel leds as well
  5. Shameless self promotion you could build my dcc dropper boards, Optional dcc indicator led supported £3.50 each plus P&P ( not commercial , just covering costs ) simple to build connectors included etc.
  6. While there is definitely some difference in illumination , in many cases it’s irelevant ( mimics etc ) for example for blue , red, green and yellow I use 1k8 on 5V. Works fine
  7. Or use a CDU design that doesn’t pass the activation current through the switch ! There are several published designs where a transistor switches the output of the CDU and the switch simply switches the transistor. This removes the arcing and high current pulses from the switch
  8. Or use a CDU design that doesn’t pass the activation current through the switch !
  9. It’s such a corner case it’s around the corner in real life electronics with similar leds , one resistor will “ work” Yes it has certain specific drawbacks but in practice it actually works. Yes it’s not a Recommended approach but for leds from the same family operating well into their safe current zone it will work and no I’m not recommending it
  10. I have done this also , here Les the fusion 360 cad , I just finished the software
  11. If you look at the characteristic curves of leds the VF rises with current , Hence your sceanario will not occur
  12. My experience is I don’t rely on the peco wires and i solder on my own I would always recommend bonding the switch blades to the stock rail and switching the frog as the optimum approach, but as has been said the points will work out of the box also.
  13. If you points and signals are electrically operates then , other then having a particular interest , there no advantage in building mechanical interlocking in our case we have a bicolour led at each lever , red locked , green unlocked , red flashing , lever out of position simple and easier to understand
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