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  1. Oh that wasn’t clear from any discussion to date
  2. how can the circuit illustrated actually follow the tie bar, as I understand it when you switch the " direction" switch the LEDs change immediately , even though the button to fire the point motors hasn't actually been pressed ?
  3. Interestingly, the Roco booster manual is entirely quiet on the issue of grounding ** seperate boosters , even though it’s exactly what the issue is. ** by grounding , I mean establishing a common 0V reference on the power supplies to the boosters. All the power supplies to any device feeding the rails needs to have a common 0V to prevent return currents finding incorrect return paths.
  4. My only comment would be that the direction leds will be wrong if the operator ever forgets to push the “ activate “ button , the usual way these circuits are arranged is to use a latching relay driven off the coil pulses , hence the led follows the point motor , not the switches you could also replace the led relay with a simple two transistor set/reset toggle from the pm drive which would do the same thing
  5. We use lots of tam valley juicers on our O gauge club layout. You should see the same voltage measurement as on plain track on the frog ( after a loco has run through the point )
  6. I still have my duettte , I still love the big chunky knob. I actually 3D printed some replica ones for other DC controllers. however the fact is the duette controller itself is very basic , and is easily bested by a simple electronic design from jelly bean components. good for nostalgia value , that’s about it.
  7. What do you mean by ” rattling across “. What’s actually happening
  8. Just in relation to ABC. You can get issues where metal wheels in the stock following the loco bridge the ABC track section and non ABC sections , causing errant behaviour and failure to stop. I’ve had to place very short insulated sections in between the two sections to prevent such issues , but it’s not a complete success , double heading ,carriage light pickups can all cause confusion
  9. Just by way of illustration. My friend has a large OO gauge fixed layout , 18by 12 , multiple levels all code 100 insulfrog it was DC with conventional isolating sections etc. He connected the dcc feed to the track and closed all the section /isolating switches dcc working fine now ( nce ) for several years is it best practice dcc wiring , god no. Does it work , absolutely dcc does not require u to do anything special if U don’t want to.
  10. No you just need the transistor circuit, per point , the capacitors can drive as many points as you need , the leds can be removed if not required hence you have a few jelly bean components per point to derive the advantage of low currents through the switches you do need a 2x transistor for each point
  11. All you ever need to know about CDUs. Near the end there’s a nice circuit that uses transistors to switch the CDU rather then the switches directly ( choice number 9) http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/75 Model Railway Projects/75 Model Railway Projects.html#Points PartB quite a nice circuit as it uses standard toggles and provides mimic panel leds as well
  12. Shameless self promotion you could build my dcc dropper boards, Optional dcc indicator led supported £3.50 each plus P&P ( not commercial , just covering costs ) simple to build connectors included etc.
  13. While there is definitely some difference in illumination , in many cases it’s irelevant ( mimics etc ) for example for blue , red, green and yellow I use 1k8 on 5V. Works fine
  14. Or use a CDU design that doesn’t pass the activation current through the switch ! There are several published designs where a transistor switches the output of the CDU and the switch simply switches the transistor. This removes the arcing and high current pulses from the switch
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