Junctionmad

As said above , you have conflict between feeds 5 & 8.

I do a lot of 3D printed parts (FDM , ender 3 , 0.2mm nozzle ) for my GWR 7mm signals pla is strong stuff Resin printing is definitely the way to go for 4mm

Absolutely , great idea.

I think you mean a potential divider, the issue is the current drawn has a big effect do you know the expected current I better solution would be a LM317 regulator a few resistors and capacitors

whats the intended scale and what 3D printer are you going to use

Very true , I forgot about the track bias option

All the MERG dc TOTIS to my knowledge use traction current detection the original circuits that got around this were based on Twin-T filter and injecting a high frequency signal , which can pass through motors etc. Have a google for Twin T DC model railway detection. Etc. I haven’t come across anything on the last few years

The car wiring is most likely Thin wall insulation , the current rating is better due to better cooling due to the thinner wall and also the nature of the current specification for car wiring is different to standard hook up wire , the 11A is actually a max figure and really half that is more applicable

Unless you are looking at high power white leds , most leds these days are happy at 2-3 mA , for standard 3mm red , green , yellow I use 1K8 at 5V

Note the red suitcase connectors are speced to 22AWG , which suits 16/0.2 wire , 7/0.2 wire has a cross section of 0.25mm2 and is considerably outside the scotchlok spec. ( the nearest AWG is 24 but this is actually wrong for 7/0.2 ) ive found such suitcase connectors when used on undersized wire to have poor reliability as the IDC mechanism doesn’t work well, with then becoming loose connections over time

You can’t drive leds from a constant voltage source , you need constant Current , of course there is a circuit configuration for the lm317 for constant current

What’s the value of the supplied resistor

If D is working when triggered from the output side of the diodes as you state . Then debug 1. test the input side of the diode ( note DL doesn’t need a diode anyway as it’s operation is not shared with another route ) 2. based on 1 , work back into the input wiring , if 1 passed , or forward into the point motor wiring of 1 failed

teh issue is for the Classic cobalt is the stall current can be very high , 90mA on 12V for example, ( a dirty little secret of Cobalts, as the internal voltage is clamped to 6.5V and the rest is lost in resistors ) ) , so if you have 50 of them ( as I have ) thats a big draw. the Analog IP drops this to 5mA . If you are using the " magic sleeper" approach , then the simple sprung steel rod is the best agree re startup ,

Yes the DCC80 will act as you say and yes you can power them from the DCC bus

The "feedback” terminal on the classic omega is merely a tap of the motor supply /2.

you dont generally need this switch as you can omit the isolators in the point if you wiring is like this ( as you show it )

Yes. I Have wondered how best to represent them.

There are two strategies with power boosters , leaving aside the DCC accessory bus concept one is a simple higher current booster, that assumes the duties of the existing booster/command station but has a current capacity of the existing system plus the additional headroom needed. This approach means no new layout wiring assuming your DCC bus wiring is capable of handling this higher current the second approach requires new wiring to run a second DCC bus to feed the power from the additional booster to designated track sections. If you have a demountable layout , the first approach saves adding more inter baseboard connectors while the second means less reliance on big DCC bus cables. In our O gauge layout we went with the first strategy and increased from 3A to 6A capable booster ( max capacity with a bigger supply is 10A. The layout wiring is good for at least 10 A

Just be aware the standard Omega has no digital mode , as mentioned by a previous poster there is not much point powering them from anything above about 7-8 V DC as the voltage is internally clamped by a Zener diode to 6.5V , and extra voltage just results in excessive wasted current which can be up to 90mA if higher voltages are used and this can all add up if you have a lot of motors as it’s a continuous stall current the Analog IP version is a considerable improvement and I think now is very close in price to the original Omega classic, it’s always worth choosing if you have a choice DCCConcepts seem to delight in long winded instructions , written in a “ blokey” manner yet contain very little technical information ( for example the actual operating current range for example ) . A stack of words and writing all adding up to a heap of nothing in my view i used about 50 of the classic Omega on a club layout recently

Very nice , it’s makes me up my game in my own 7mm signals every time I see your work I would have been under the impression the landing boards would have been a dark colour , as opposed to a nearly “ new” timber colour ??

Or 2x$1 SG90 servos ! Just saying

Sounds “ sorted “ to me

Yes , by an army of trained personnel , and over decades , not by an amateur during his lunch break