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    Scottish Highlands

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  1. Thanks very much, I'm afraid there hasn't been any progress. I've been busy doing a GNR C1 scratch build followed by an X class Peckett. Also just finishing a major fencing and hedging project in the garden too (i need a new back!!) but fingers crossed i'll be back onto it before Xmas. Dave
  2. I've been rumbled, i have been making duplicates of some of the items and with the alternate cab etc it isn't a major scratchbuild exercise to hopefully make another. I started to look through all of the castings and especially those for the pipework etc Most are ok chimney is a little dodgy but i think it's workable, some duplicated so they're in the 2nd kit pile. But i have nothing like what i was expecting as far as injectors, chimney mounted lubricator and clacks. This is what i have and in my view they must be for a different kit so i'll have to make up something.
  3. So on with the saddle tank. You get an etched unit with front and rear fold up formers, a pre rolled saddle, boiler bottom and 2 front formers, one full height. A discussed above the rivet pattern has quite large spacings and the tank has been formed as though from one plate. So i've unrolled the tank and measured and cut out a new one from brass sheet, rolled it along with a thin overlapping center plate. I'll add transfer rivets from HGW Models after it's been primed. The fold up unit front and rear formers are quite a bit different to
  4. Yeah need to order a few more washers for packing though
  5. Worked on the cab this afternoon for a couple of hours. The beading and spectacles were soldered in before folding the sides up, i've just used a piece 1mm x 0.3 strip rather than wire as there was nothing supplied in the kit (i'll probably get the sanding disc in the mini drill to round the edges a little later). The spectacles were considerably undersize from the half etched recesses in the front and rear etches so i had to carefully flood the remaining recess with solder. I also added a strip of scrap etch to the top of the front and rear to give a little better area to glue the roof o
  6. Made a start this evening with the chassis, rods and footplate. Spacer tabs fitted nicely into the respective slots on the chassis so no problems getting it all nice and square. I've re positioned the one spacer as it would have fouled the gearbox which will be rear axle driven. Rods laminated together from 3 sections, sweated together using drills positioned in a block to keep everything together. With the chassis basics done i offered the footplate up to it making sure the axle bearings lined up with the splashers, screwed the 2 together and soldered the locating nuts to the top. Valences so
  7. Thanks guys. Adam as you say must be a trick of the light, photo's that have been digitised shouldn't really be fully trusted anyway in my view, you are relying on the scan to replicate and pick up everything, filtering and enhancing software can easily miss or remove "noise" in the picture which may be crucial. Cheers Dave
  8. Thanks Adam, i've had a good look at your impressive build of the "Marshal". I'll be happy if it turns out likewise. The photo above is the one i've been using and in my eyes seems to show instead of a center ring as you describe it which i've seen on many pecketts but the 2/3 plated section, there doesn't appear to be a step in levels under the safety valve cover similar with the below photo (different cab), not sure of the copyright but if anyone requests it i'll remove it. Hence why i wondered if they may have been restricted in rolling widths at the loco works.
  9. Some time ago i picked up a Mercian X class Peckett kit, i've done a couple of Mercian kits (a 50550 and a class 14 teddy bear) recently so while the manufacturers methodology is still reasonably fresh i thought i'd make a start on this. First up was a good look through all of the etches and components to see what was included. The kit enable builders to chose between the Metropolitan type cab or the Lord Salisbury type with the curved rear external bunker, which is the one i intend to go for. The instructions are only barely helpful so it's imperative you
  10. Added the tender axle boxes and brake gear, Cut some rod for the misc handrails and assembled it all together. Pickups to add to the tender once the chassis is painted but otherwise it's just about there i think. Plenty that could be improved on but i'm happy that my first scratch build has gone ok. It's pretty cool here 6 degree highs during the day at the moment so painting will have to wait a while. Cheers for all the info and assistance it's much appreciated. Dave
  11. The coal chute sides, bottom were assembled to the front bulkhead I made up the dome from a strip of flat rolled around an exacto knife and the filler was from a piece of brass tube. The mushroom vents were a bit of a fiddle made up again from 2mm dia tube, for the tops i cut out a small circle of very thin brass sheet made a cut to the centre of the circle and wrapped it around forming the cone. I tried several times as it was very tricky getting the cone fairly equal on all sides. Some lead weight was added to the tank base on th
  12. I've replaced the door handles on the smoke box door and in my eyes it's looking better, i'll take photos another time. In the meantime i've been cutting out the tender parts and getting those ready for assembly. The outer frames cut out and drilled as a pair, the slots in the tender base have been modified too to make it easier to solder the tender top, and coal chute from the underside. I scored the tender sides under the flare with an Olfa cutter as i prefer to form the flares from the same piece rather than try to form some very narrow piec
  13. The A3 boiler is quite a bit bigger but i may have an N2 somewhere that may be a possibility, Yeah your spot on with the door handle it's a monster. I'll rework that front end. Dave
  14. Rain stopped play, well digging the trench so some time was spent in the shed. Pretty much everything has been added now apart from handrails which will be fitted after painting. The castings for the chimney and smokebox door weren't great but i'll add a touch of filler once it's primed to tidy things up. The back head was a trial for my eyes but it looks something like, not perfect by any means, so i'll try to improve on that next time. All runs nice and smoothly with pick ups for the moment on the 2 pairs of drivers. I'll add pick ups to the tender wheels.
  15. That's the best photo i've seen, it certainly shows far more detail than the pixelated ones i have previously garnered. Thanks for all the info everyone is contributing, there is something aesthetically pleasing about the V2 stop. Simple but effective. Not had chance to get anything done over the last few days, preparation for replacing a 30m fence with a mixed species hedge is taking up most of my time (until my back creaks and groans too much).
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