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k22009

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Everything posted by k22009

  1. That's the best photo i've seen, it certainly shows far more detail than the pixelated ones i have previously garnered. Thanks for all the info everyone is contributing, there is something aesthetically pleasing about the V2 stop. Simple but effective. Not had chance to get anything done over the last few days, preparation for replacing a 30m fence with a mixed species hedge is taking up most of my time (until my back creaks and groans too much).
  2. Thanks for looking Dave it isn't clear below are a couple of enlarged crops from photos. Difficult to assess what it is, you can see the 2 bolts one either side, whether they were to bolt the stop on or not is a different matter, i'll make a piece as you say like a blind handrail knob shaped at the top and attached to a small strip which i can add 2 bolt heads. I have to make up a new hinge for the smokebox door anyway as the casting for that and the chimney were not great. Dave
  3. Does anyone have any info or a photo of the smokebox door stop that seemed to be on some GNR/LNER locos? From what i can deduce it appears to be a fairly plain T shaped casting with 2 bolts securing it to the smokebox front one either side. Dave
  4. I prefer the LMS and Midland locos normally but i just enjoy building anything tbh. We live here because i got fed up driving up the M6 to head to the hills. I think the C1 Atlantic has lovely lines and with no real kit alternative apart from Ace and DJH i thought i'd have a bash. I'd initially thought of making drawings for an etched run but not having dabbled my feet in those waters before i'm very cautious. So a one off it probably will be, although the drawings are available if anyone wants them (for a small donation to a good cause like BHF or Cancer research UK).
  5. Thanks Dave for that, it's a massive help. I have not found any pictures at all to go on, only photos of the Bachmann model which i can't rely on really. The person who does the etches only lives down the road from me, Perth is our closest town. I'd wondered where the name Silver Tay came into it. Etches are great just what i needed. Thanks for the offer of the backhead i have one in an A4 conversion kit in the to do pile that i just checked out. It is a bit bigger and with certainly more pipework than required but i could reduce it and remove the parts not req
  6. Etches arrived from Silver Tay. There are 8 mudhole doors on the sheet all were cut out, those that are on the edge of the firebox were rolled around a needle file handle before attaching. I'm pleased looks better than my home brewed parts. I've a small pile of detailing parts to make up so i thought i'd start with the basic backhead, cab floor and steps. The backhead will have pipes, fire door, gauges etc added once i've digested an enlarged print of the Isinglass drawing. Dave
  7. Thanks for spotting that i'd forgot to radius the tank ends on plan though although i've allowed for them in the layout of parts hence the fingers at the corners which will need filling with solder, the vertical lines on the developement are the centre point for starting the curves. Cheers guys Dave
  8. Was at a loose end last night for a couple of hours, it has been raining here for 36 hours non stop so i wasn't about to venture out to the shed to do some more work so i decided to draw up the tender. I was thinking of buying a kit from John at London road but as things have gone ok so far i'll try the scratch build route first. Dave
  9. I've ordered an etch of the steam chest covers from Brassmasters along with a few other bits that may be useful for other projects. In the meantime i've added handrail pillars to the boiler, the axle boxes on the the trailing wheel outer frames. I've also sorted out the pickups and brake gear. As i've got the pickups on the top of the frames next to the splashers it leaves a little more room in the frames to get the 2 brake cylinders and brake gear (2 cylinders positioned between the rear bogie wheels and front drivers and the rear cylinder is under the cab this actuates the brakes
  10. They certainly look better than my efforts and would be the correct dimensions too as the cylinders are 20" dia. Wouldn't it be nice if we had an online catalogue with all these misc. parts logged in one searchable location. Dream on.
  11. Perfect, i'll hot foot it over to Ebay. Thanks very much.
  12. I added brake hanger wires to the chassis and painted it over the last 2 days so that i could get the wheels on. The brakes between the drivers will only fit once the wheels are in situ as its just too tight. High level Roadrunner gearbox made up. I've used a Mabuchi motor and just tack soldered it onto the gearbox as the mounting screws are too big and foul the gearbox side frames. The centres of the drivers is 27.8mm. it should be 27.33 but the rims would foul, there's just about a fag paper clearance between them. I made up coupling rods from some unive
  13. Splashers and tops cut out of 0.25mm brass, i cut 2 lots of tops as these are set proud of the splasher sides and needed to be double thickness. I hadn't allowed for this on my drawing so i had to cut the sides down o.5mm to compensate. I laminated the tops and rolled them around a broom handle to get them somewhere close to the profile before soldering up, getting my fingers a tad warm in the process. But they came out fine with a prominent shoulder on the tops, they just need a little tlc with the file.. I then cut out the rear frame extensio
  14. I decided to form the cab sides and roof from one piece, the front was a little tricky cutting out the windows, i need some small files here really. Formed with the aid of some 3/16 bar, the cab front sits proud slightly from the sides. Beading added from 0.5mm wire. I'll get the splashers cut and formed next, these position everything on the footplate, as the firebox butts up to the rear of them. I'll also add the washout plugs boiler bands that will only leave the detailing parts handrail knobs, chimney, dome, a
  15. Thanks for the info regarding the GA, if i'd thought about it a few months back i'd have probably bought it but for know i've used the Isinglass drawing. I made up the firebox former, with a temporary stiffener between back and front ( it may have to come out if it fouls the motor) i also added some brass square bar to the leading lower edges which will need to be filed to form the transition curves. i decided to try to form the boiler and firebox in one piece, i marked out the band positions and rolled it up on the GW rolling bars. Soldered the seam up and
  16. Managed another hour this afternoon, enough time to get the 3 parts positioned and assembled together. A quick check with the frames and cylinder assembly first though to make sure they fit under the raised footplate before soldering up. I'll roll the boiler/firebox and smokebox next and make up the firebox former. The boiler and smokebox formers are plain circular pieces so they should be straight forward enough. Before i roll the boiler/firebox piece though i'll mark the positions of the boiler bands, safety valves, washout plugs and mudhole covers. I have some washo
  17. The footplate isn't continuous from the cab to the front buffer beam so i'll make it up in 3 units. The rear footplate, the saddle assembly with frame extensions and lastly the front footplate. I calculated the overall length from the drawing allowing for the bends in the footplate and added 0.5mm which i could file off if it were too long. As i'm doing this in OO the slots for the drive wheels didn't need to be too close to the footplate edge, i left a small stiffener in between the two which will hopefully clear everything. The valances were from 1.2mm strip and once these were soldere
  18. The weather was too nice to miss today so after a walk in Glenshee i managed an hour to get the wrappers and cylinder front cover. They are quite small cylinders being only 20" so it's a bit tight getting the wrappers soldered on with the piston tube and slidebars in there already. The rivets on the wrappers and the cover don't quite line up, i may file off those on the wrappers and add some transfer rivets during painting if they annoy me too much. I'm going to make a start on the footplate next. Dave
  19. The motion bracket is a fairly straightforward affair, some 1mm strip bent to shape, after a failure at my first attempt i found you just need to do the bends very gradually so as not to shear the brass, a few taps with a small jeweller's hammer to flatten it and then laminated both together. The cylinder side plates were cut out and drilled as a pair, and a 1.5 Dia i/d tube soldered between the two so that the crosshead has somewhere to slide, similarly the slide bars go through both ends to give some additional rigidity. A stretcher between the two will allow the as
  20. Thanks Mike, the photos are always a useful resource for close in detail. On with the cylinders and motion bracket tomorrow. Dave
  21. Thanks, yes as i mentioned i have some etched coil springs somewhere but have added the leaf type for now, they're shown on the drawing in the post above.
  22. I cut the frames from 0.38 thick nickel silver sheet with a slitting disk, piercing saw and files to finish off. I omitted the springs as i'd a few from old Comet etches leftover that i could solder on rather than try to cut these out too. The springs were added, the rear driver shouldn't be a leaf spring but i believe they were coiled, however they will not really be seen behind the wheels so this will be fine. If i find some old etched parts in my box of bits i may retrofit them later. and with a strip of 12mm nickel silver flat i made up several sp
  23. It's been a while but with time to spare during the last few months i've resurrected the build of the C1. I picked up a copy of Locomotives of the LNER part 3A which gives an excellent history and comprehensive building details which is impossible to extract from the Isinglass drawings. Like Guy Williams i will hopefully use the London Road Ivatt self trimming tender so i'm just concentrating on the engine. Updated plans and elevations with a motor and high level gearbox combo vertically into the firebox. It will also work with the motor horizontal too. I'm in two minds about the t
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