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  1. The scale of the chassis is 1/148 to match the locomotive body and is to 2mm fine scale wheel standards to run on 2mm fine scale track.
  2. I am currently converting a new farish 4f to an approximation of a SR Q class. I just wanted to check whether model strip is able to remove the paint finish from the plastic body shell or whether something else would be more suitable?
  3. Hi - can I ask what software you are using for your 3d printing work. Guy
  4. I've emailed mcschueler, modellbaushop-lippe.com to check what their delivery times would be like. I'll let you know how I get on. Guy
  5. Hello all, well its been almost a year since my last post - how the time flies. I wanted to purchase the same parts that I tried to buy last year; item Weinert 56520 9.8mm 9 spoke wheels. I had an email from wagenwerk back in september saying the item had finally come through and that I could place my order when I liked. I emailed them back recently to check that this was still the case but had no reply. As weinerts' shop site isn't fully operational yet, I was wondering where best to order from as I don't want to deal with wagenwerk if they wont return emails and my german isnt up to a
  6. Hi Pete, I am using 11mm wheels as the Farish N Class originals are 10.8mm. These seem to fit without any clearance issues and I think this is the rim diameter John Greenwood would have used. I have also found that the 57xx coupling rods from the replacement rods for GF locomotives (3-205) seem to be an exact match for the N class (approximately 14.5mm +16.5mm) although the rod knuckle is around the wrong way. The rods are designed for larger crankpins for the old ballentine wheels I think, but as the original farish mechanism has alot of "slop" in the mechanism, I am hoping this wont
  7. Pete - I have taken one of the crank bolts out and measured the outside diameter as 0.97mm so I believe its an M1 thread. Sorry to hear about your hamstring - I wish you a speedy as possible recovery Guy
  8. Nigel/ Pete/ Chris, Thanks for your advice. I am going to first try the re-rimming method and if that fails - I will probably go with Pete's solution. Can I ask Pete, what thread are the crankpins - M1 or 0.75? Guy
  9. Hi, I am planning to convert a farish N class to finescale much as John Greenwood did by fitting 2fs rims to the farish wheels. As these are reasonably fragile, I wanted to get some advice on what turning speeds to use on the wheels - treat them as brass? I'll likely remove one wheel of each wheelset from the axle to hold the wheel boss/bearing surface in a collet. I will freshly sharpen the tool beforehand. I imagine loctite 603 is a good bet to fix the rims to the wheels? thanks Guy
  10. Hi Jerry et al, Thanks for the tips. In the words of Columbo... just one more thing. I have been using Multicore 0.5mm or 0.7mm diameter solder for most tasks with frys flux if better flow is required. Is using multicore ok with phosphoric acid flux or should I be using solid solder - if so do you have any recommendations? Guy
  11. Can I ask which flux you use for this. I had some issues with the solder not flowing into the joint well enough with the Fluxlite solder paste I use for my soldering - should I be using phosphoric acid liquid flux perhaps for better flow? Do you try to get the solder to run to the front of the wheel around the crank pin. Also how do you hold them in place so they don't move during soldering? thanks Guy
  12. I would of thought you could use n gauge roller gauges and just work to tighter clearances on the crossings with 0.5 mm shim material at the frogs in place of gauges. I do actually have some FS 160 gauges for code 40 rail but these where produced a while ago by a member of the association. https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/roller-gauge-whandle-n-scale-standard-9mm-2-pack/
  13. Its a great plan you've got there, interesting and should provide good operational potential.
  14. I have now put a lable on my quartering tool to remind me
  15. I think nick may have hit it on the head - I didn't drill the hole ! I cant believe I didn't think of that as I have done it for all the previous association muffs I have installed. Thanks Guy
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