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JonKing

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    Warwickshire (& sometimes Tigley, Devon)

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  1. Well 31201 and 37719 are now complete having had a light dusting of brake dust to the lower bodysides, buffer beam details brake pipes etc have also been fitted along with a crew in 31201: Weathering has also started on 37412, an initial light wash of dk grey in the grilles / tumblehome area wiped off with a flat brush soaked in thinners and a wash of dilute matt black to the roof. A spare set of ploughs from the spares box has also been fitted.
  2. A bit more progress on 31201. Weathering has started with streaking / oil spills to the bodyside, these have been done using my normal method of dk greys / browns roughly painted on and then removed with a flat head brush soaked in thinners in a vertical motion (reference to photos is important here to make sure the streaking is in the right place!). Roof weathering has also started with diluted matt black painted around grills, hatches, panels etc and then wiped off again with a flat head brush soaked in thinners. I would normally avoid matt black when weathering however find its the only colour that really "works" on a exec dark grey roof ("roof dirt" shades are actually lighter than the exec dk grey and look odd in my opinion). This is probably as far as I want to take the weathering on this one other than a quick (light) blow over with brake dust on the lower bodyside. Those with eagle eyes will also note the yellow cab door at the non rad end on this side, there is also a BR blue door the other side. This is 100% correct for the prototype loco in its final years. Weathering has also started on 37719 using the same techniques. Weathering on this one is lighter with most of the streaking being confined to the tumble home, I want this to represent a bog standard 37 in its final years (e.g worn but not over weathered), I am however planning to add homemade "non-multi" yellow stickers in the centre windows at one end. The non-multi stickers, a yellow rectangle with black X basically signified that the locos multiple working equipment was defective at that end.
  3. Progress continues. 37719 and 37412 have had transfers applied, a filter coat (to fade the paintwork slightly) and a coat of matt varnish. The filter coat initially makes the paintwork look a bit washed out however some weathering will bring them back to life (hopefully). I want to make sure everything has fully dried and hardened so weathering wont start for a week or so. Transfers are partially applied to 37906, unfortunately I messed up the Transrail branding (twice!) and so have had to order some more transfers, Interestingly despite both 37906 and 37412 being in Transrail livery the details on both vary significantly - 37412 only has the "Big T" logo and no red repeater stripes or Transrail branding, good job I checked photos first!. 37100s chassis is complete (still needs all the wiring putting back together though) and nose end grills have been repainted grey. I decided to try and make the marker lights more like the prototype, the existing marker lights were filled and then drilled out to accept some brass tube (approx. the same diameter as a standard marker light). The brass tube was pushed through the hole so it stood slightly proud of the nose as per the prototype marker lights, this was then glued into place and trimmed at the rear so it didn't foul the nose lighting circuit board.
  4. Thanks for the feedback everyone. Painting of the TTG 37 bodies is now complete including the bodyside grilles. As expected the grilles took some time to paint (approx. 4hrs per loco). I brush painted these, trying to avoid seepage around the masking tape and also getting the paint to penetrate into the grille recesses proved quite a challenge (thanks to Stephen "AyrMRG" for his tip of using slightly diluted paint which really helped getting the paint into the recesses). I am quite pleased with the end result, not up to a factory or professional finish but definitely passable. 31201 is also progressing well and ready for transfers / weathering: All of these are now awaiting gloss varnishing prior to transfers and then weathering. There is a bit of a hiatus on the varnishing as my airbrush (a cheapo £10 ebay purchase) has finally stopped working as the rubber seals have perished from constant cleaning with solvent cleaner. I have treated myself to a new Iwata neo which is on its way. I have also started another side project having picked up a Bachmann split box 37 body from ebay recently at a reasonable price, this will become the rather unique 37100 in transrail livery with split boxes at one end and a flush front the other. 37100 also only had one underframe tank (the other presumably having been damaged in the same collision that led to its flush nose). I didn't fancy butchering a functioning 37 chassis for 37100 so decided to use a damaged one that had been sitting in my garage for some time. This one was knocked off a shelf some time ago, smashing one bogie and buffer beam. In a classic case of cut first check later I had also at some point tried to use this chassis under a heavyweight 37 and converted the wrong underframe tank to a flush sided tank. The DCC chip pins are seriously bent and the chassis has also been covered in overspray, dust and cobwebs!: First step was to check the motor to ensure it worked (it did after some cleaning) and then strip the entire chassis to its component parts. Underframe tanks were cut off and a spare was sourced from my spares tank and installed on the chassis. Wheels were cleaned, a spare bogie obtained (again from the spares box) and everything reassembled. Its now ready for final prep (sanding the filler) and painting but first I want to find some more photos of the prototype to see if there are any pipe runs, extra parts etc I can fabricate out of plasticard where the tank has been removed: The body will need its nose end grilles painting rail grey before transfers / weathering. Still some work to do on the flush nose end which is recovered from a heavyweight loco, door hinges have been added to the nose end doors using etched brass mk1 door hinges. At first I tried to replicate the central door lip with a strip of plasticard, this didn't look right (it was so thin it distorted when glued) so has been replaced with thin strips of brass from my spares box. The lights are not quite right - in reality these sit on 37100s nose and are not recessed in the same way as heavyweight conversions, I am in two minds whether to modify these or leave as is.
  5. Plymouth Friary was used to marshal goods trains up until the mid 1980s(?) following closure to passengers. Photos on this link show goods wagons / mixed freights stabled in the platform roads with station buildings / canopies still in existence: http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/p/plymouth_friary/ very modellable aswell as the bridge carrying Tothill Road makes a good scenic break.
  6. The scary thing is it feels like only yesterday!. I was looking over my dads photo collection the other day (I intend to scan them all electronically at some point) and came across the photo below of a young me at Peak Forest on 1st March 1998. I remember the trip well, we drove up from Devon on the Saturday calling in at Bescot on the way and staying the night at Tamworth services. On Sunday we first went to Toton, then Tinsley for one last time as it was due to close that week (it was possibly its last day of operation). At Tinsley Dad got talking to a member of EWS staff who, on hearing we had travelled up from Devon, kindly gave us a guided tour - much to my amazement there were still a number of RFD 47s stabled in the shed. We then went on to Peak Forest having been made aware of its existence in a Rail Express article a couple of weeks before, we weren't disappointed as there were 6 60s and 2 56s stabled up (in a range of liveries including EWS, TTG, Mainline & Loadhaul). I digress slightly, the point being I was shocked when I realised it was 21 years ago!. The resprays are progressing, all main colours done now other than the exec. dark grey roofs. Then I will have to bite the bullet and do the bodyside grilles on the 37s - a lot of fiddly masking, it will no doubt be like pulling teeth!. At least the 31 grilles pop out so they can be painted separately!.
  7. Thanks for the positive comments!. I do try and keep my weathering subtle and towards the "light" end - I find it very difficult to get heavy weathering to look right and scale correctly so avoid doing it.
  8. No 47s recently i'm afraid!, just quality English Electric traction: First up is 37886 and 37670 in EWS livery, both use the Bachmann EWS 37670 as a base (with the correct RSH cant rail grills), both have been resprayed with the appropriate windows / footsteps filled in on 37886 to make it correct for a heavyweight 37/8. Respraying 37670 may seem a bit counter productive as it is a standard Bachmann release already numbered 37670 in EWS livery - I resprayed it as the model had been purchased professionally weathered, there was nothing particularly wrong with the weathering it just wasn't to my taste (solely having been airbrushed on rather than washes in the grills etc). I tried to remove the weathering however it had been sealed with Matt varnish which bloomed necessitating a strip and respray, this also gave an opportunity to respray the gold stripe the correct colour as the Bachmann shade is wrong to my eyes. EWS livery must be one of the easier liveries to spray just need to make sure the gold stripe is straight!. Next a quartet of DRS locos. First up were 20901 & 20906, complete resprays into DRS livery with reinforced windscreens, headlights etc added as appropriate. Transfers were custom made by Rainbow Railways who were really helpful (thanks guys!). DRS locos, specifically Class 20s were not really seen in the South West in the late 90s (I will assume an alternative reality where they worked to Devonport regularly). I have a soft spot for Class 20s as I used to be heavily involved with diesel preservation at the South Devon Railway some years ago (before work, children, marriage, mortgages etc got in the way!) and regularly drove 20110 and 20118 when they were owned by SDDT (both are now owned by HNRC and 20118 is back on the mainline). Unfortunately these two tested my patience somewhat, during stripping the handrail knobs fell out and did not one to go back in during reassembly either breaking, falling out or getting lost. Getting the join between the light grey roof and dark blue was a complete PITA. I gloss varnished both one morning and left them in the garage to dry, a couple of hours later me and my eldest decided to build a baseboard for his Thomas train set - a good deal of fun was had in the garage cutting wood, drilling holes and making a lot of dust. When tidying up I noticed the two 20s now had a rather nice wood chip finish.... oh well, into the superstrip again for round 2!. 37612 and 37607 are Bachmann resprays / conversions both with the correct combinations of RSH / non-RSH cant rail grilles and nose end grilles and one bodyside window on each filled. Nose ends are from the excellent rainbow railways range and only required a small amount of fettling to fit nicely. Both are finished in early DRS livery, the best version of DRS livery in my opinion (partly because I don't fancy trying to get the DRS compass or newer style livery to lie nicely over the bodyside grilles / footsteps). Transfers are again from the Rainbow Railways range. For some reason I got a lot of silvering on both when the transfers were first applied (I don't think I used enough microsol), this was only visible after varnishing a didn't look good. In order to cure it I used a trick from an American forum and used a very sharp knife to pierce the worst silvering on the decals, I then flooded the area with microsol and repeated until the silvering had gone. Next up are these 4 TTG locos - 37412 & 37906 (slug 6) in Transrail, 37719 in RF Petroleum and 31201 in battered RF coal. 31201 has had the radiator grills enlarged to accept the revised type, as usual I cut one side perfectly square and the other was a wonky mess which needed building back up with plasticard and filler.
  9. As others have said, avoid humbrol enamel varnish!. humbrol enamel paints are pretty good but every time I have tried to use their Matt varnish it has dried with a white bloom, the rattle cans also suffer from yellowing see the photo below of 2 resprayed 47s where the varnish has yellowed turning the rail grey to rail beige!: If if you still have your model and haven’t stripped it yet try applying a coat of enamel gloss varnish over the Matt, this should remove the white bloom - I have saved a number of models over the years using this method. For varnishing I only use ready thinned phoenix enamel Matt varnish now - haven’t had any problems so far.
  10. Well 47224 is complete, its a complete respray of a Heljan 47 and represents 47224 as it was when it was transferred from the EWS LWCW pool to Freightliner (later on in its career it was tarted up a bit with nameplates, red buffer beams etc). Not much progress on the layout recently, it is pretty much complete apart from a backscene which I will add at some point. I have however been giving my Wessex trains 2nd generation DMUs a run. I have fond memories regularly travelling to Plymouth and Exeter on Wessex trains units, Wessex didn't really seem to care about the condition of their units and most were pretty grubby. I have tried to replicate this on my models, first is a Bachmann Regional Railways 150 with Wessex Trains patches (from Precision Decals) renumbered as 150232 and weathered: Next is Hornby Regional 153 renumbered and patched as 153329 in Central Trains livery. 153329 was one of two units transferred to Wessex from Central and seemed to run with Central branding still in place for years. Central Trains logos are again from Precision Decals.
  11. Thanks for the feedback everyone. The freightliner 47s are now finished, photo below showing 47303 with the others behind awaiting some DCC chips when I get round to buying some. Also currently on my workbench is 47224 in unbranded TTG and another 47 which will either become 47355 in worn distribution livery or 47358 in freightliner (I haven't decided yet!). I have also been working on respraying a Hornby 08 into BR blue to match a photo my Dad took of it at Bescot in the late 90s. The loco started as another ebay bargain Hornby 08 in intercity livery with damaged footsteps, I did consider leaving it in intercity livery however decided not to as freight 08s in intercity were very rare. This is the real 08623: This is my version: Following a rub down with wet and dry paper to remove the intercity livery I first masked off the wasp stripes (as I am nowhere near skilled enough to paint them!), primed with halfords primer and sprayed the body BR blue. I then sprayed the body again with phoenix faded blue in vertical motions this gives a good starting layer for the patchy / faded blue effect. I never use the faded blue as a base coat / single block of colour as it looks too homogenous and doesn't really replicate the differing shades of blue on a faded loco. I then sprayed the yellow ends with a filter coat of very dilute grey to tone them down. Once the base coats had hardened (3 - 4 days) I painted a diluted brown / dark grey wash around the engine room doors, equipment cabinets etc. This was then wiped off with flat brushes soaked in thinners to clean off areas whilst also leaving dirt in the panel lines / recesses, this was built up in layers over several days particularly around the fuel tanks and air filters. Once happy with the initial dirt wash I dry brushed standard rail blue randomly on the door faces to give a bit more variation to the faded blue paintwork. AK interactive fuel stains were then brushed around the fuel tanks working from pictures so that the fuel spillage / build up is in the correct location. The underframe was initial brush painted with a coat of frame dirt darkened by mixing in a bit of weathered black, once dry the more exposed areas (e.g front of the frames, sandboxes, steps etc) were brush painted with neat frame dirt to give some variation to the colour. The springs were then stippled with dark grey and AK interactive oil stains. Transfers are standard fox transfers, I didn't have a red BS depot sticker so just cut out a red area from a spare set of RTC transfers - it looks OK if you don't look too hard!. The cab side numbers were applied over gloss varnish to prevent any silvering of the carrier film. Silvering looks awful and is one of my pet hates, luckily its really easy to avoid which is why it amazes me that I see some supposedly "professional" resprays with extensive silvering. I don't bother putting the OHLE stickers over gloss varnish as they have no visible carrier film. The gloss varnish on the cab was then sprayed with humbrol matt to deaden it, usually I would finish the whole model with a coat of matt varnish but didn't on this one as I didn't want to loose some of the gloss fuel stains etc.
  12. Thanks Rob, I was probably trying to justify to myself to be honest!. Yes, unrefurbished SSAs in EWS livery were as rare as hens teeth however I think that at least one ran in EWS livery before they were rebodied by EWS (somewhere on the web there is a picture of it at Stanton Gate). Let me know if you want the .stl file for the rebodied SSA and I will send it to you, you will just need to upload it to Shapeways for 3d printing. I think its on a hard drive from an old computer so may take some time to dig it out. Meanwhile transfers have been applied to the Freightliner 47s and a start made on weathering. Here they are taking a piggyback on 47287:- Top of the pile is 47303 "Freightliner Cleveland" which will be in very battered / weathered freightliner livery. The paintshop must have been having a bad day when they did this one as it started to loose patches of its rail grey exposing rail blue beneath and ran in this condition for years. I have tried to replicate this on the model going off photographs. Streaking on the sides is excellent AK interactive dark streaking grime, dabbed on at cantrail level and then pulled down vertically with a flat brush soaked in thinners. Middle is 47337 and finally 47283, both of which will be slightly weathered. Like the prototype 47337 has a flush front at the non-radiator end and 47283 retains its buffer beam cowls (47283 also has standard underframe battery boxes without the long range fuel tank).
  13. Well, plans for the shunter changed slightly. Looking through some of my dads old photos I found this photo of 09203 on a local trip working around Newport during the late 90s (98 / 99 ish), further photos on the web show this loco running around in 2000 / 2001 with BR blue battery box doors (presumably recovered from another loco) and a freshly painted blue exhauster cabinet on one side. On a whim I decided I would model this loco instead. First up was to respray into departmental grey livery, I masked off the existing Hornby wasp stripes / yellow ends as my skills are nowhere near good enough to paint these!. The departmental grey was then faded with coats of light grey (not white) painted on and rubbed off. Photo below, as usual it looks a bit of a mess at this stage:- Dirt was then built up around the panel lines, cabinets etc using streaking dirt from the excellent AK interactive range. This was painted on and then rubbed off with cotton buds dipped in thinners leaving "dirt" in recesses, panel lines etc. Shades of brown where then used to weather the fronts and tops of the battery boxes and exhauster cabinets, again applied with a brush and rubbed off. These steps are shown in the two photos below. The exhaust was painted a rust colour (as per the prototype) and rust / grime streaking added to the cab and bonnet. Process for this was to roughly paint some rusty / brown colours along the centre line of the roof and drag downwards with a flat brush soaked in thinners, again building up the effect over several coats. The underframe was then hand painted with a base layer of weathered black tinged with frame dirt, once dry frame dirt was applied again (with a brush) to highlight areas less prone to "gungy" dirt (e.g the foot steps, sand box faces etc). AK interactive engine oil was then applied to the springs, axle boxes and connecting rod joints to give a greasy / oily look to these areas. Photo of the finished loco below. Next up on the workbench are these resprayed freightliner grey 47s (two of which were resprayed previously but suffered very badly from humbrol varnish yellowing). They will become well used / battered freightliner 47s.
  14. Next up on the workbench is this Hornby shunter bought from ebay a while back as an absolute bargain (circa £26.00). Despite having been dropped at some point causing damage to the steps and front end marker lights its a good runner which can be repaired quite easily. Unexpectedly it was also DCC fitted however the DCC chip has gone into 58045 from the previous post. Photo below shows the loco partially stripped of its equipment boxes which have been removed to make a respray easier. I am intending to respray this as 08792. A quick look shows that in terms of equipment box layout etc the base model is a fairly good fit, the model is however fitted with earlier style cab doors which will need to be filled to represent the later steel doors 08792 and the front of one of the exhauster cabinets will need to be filed flush to match the prototype. Photo below is 08792 taken in the late 90s at Exeter Riverside yard showing how I intend the finished model to look. 08792 was a particular favourite of mine being a long term resident of Exeter Riverside yard, it could usually be found stabled at the rear of the old goods shed easily visible from Red Cow crossing. I think the small Transrail logos on it were also fairly unique for an 08 shunter?.
  15. Rich, Something like this should do the job:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/On-Off-2Position-Rotary-Select-Selector-Switch-1-NO-10A-600V-AC-XB2-ED21-EJ21-YJ/263432827400?hash=item3d55d1f208:g:oO4AAOSwyXNZ8vQX:rk:44:pf:0 The example above is actually a SPST switch but that's all you need if you are using it to drive a DPDT relay (basically all you need is an on/off switch to energise the relay coil). This is the type of relay you should get:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-G5V-2-DC-12V-2A-DPDT-8Pin-PCB-Mount-Low-cost-Signal-Relay-VQ/163290799437?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D5e0b5b94abff4b0da9e1257f4a1fd47c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D121694775735%26itm%3D163290799437&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 When I got mine they were around £5 for 5 but I assume the increase is due to fluctuating markets, exchange rates etc. Jon
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