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Everything posted by JonKing

  1. Well 31201 and 37719 are now complete having had a light dusting of brake dust to the lower bodysides, buffer beam details brake pipes etc have also been fitted along with a crew in 31201: Weathering has also started on 37412, an initial light wash of dk grey in the grilles / tumblehome area wiped off with a flat brush soaked in thinners and a wash of dilute matt black to the roof. A spare set of ploughs from the spares box has also been fitted.
  2. A bit more progress on 31201. Weathering has started with streaking / oil spills to the bodyside, these have been done using my normal method of dk greys / browns roughly painted on and then removed with a flat head brush soaked in thinners in a vertical motion (reference to photos is important here to make sure the streaking is in the right place!). Roof weathering has also started with diluted matt black painted around grills, hatches, panels etc and then wiped off again with a flat head brush soaked in thinners. I would normally avoid matt black when weathering however find its the only colour that really "works" on a exec dark grey roof ("roof dirt" shades are actually lighter than the exec dk grey and look odd in my opinion). This is probably as far as I want to take the weathering on this one other than a quick (light) blow over with brake dust on the lower bodyside. Those with eagle eyes will also note the yellow cab door at the non rad end on this side, there is also a BR blue door the other side. This is 100% correct for the prototype loco in its final years. Weathering has also started on 37719 using the same techniques. Weathering on this one is lighter with most of the streaking being confined to the tumble home, I want this to represent a bog standard 37 in its final years (e.g worn but not over weathered), I am however planning to add homemade "non-multi" yellow stickers in the centre windows at one end. The non-multi stickers, a yellow rectangle with black X basically signified that the locos multiple working equipment was defective at that end.
  3. Progress continues. 37719 and 37412 have had transfers applied, a filter coat (to fade the paintwork slightly) and a coat of matt varnish. The filter coat initially makes the paintwork look a bit washed out however some weathering will bring them back to life (hopefully). I want to make sure everything has fully dried and hardened so weathering wont start for a week or so. Transfers are partially applied to 37906, unfortunately I messed up the Transrail branding (twice!) and so have had to order some more transfers, Interestingly despite both 37906 and 37412 being in Transrail livery the details on both vary significantly - 37412 only has the "Big T" logo and no red repeater stripes or Transrail branding, good job I checked photos first!. 37100s chassis is complete (still needs all the wiring putting back together though) and nose end grills have been repainted grey. I decided to try and make the marker lights more like the prototype, the existing marker lights were filled and then drilled out to accept some brass tube (approx. the same diameter as a standard marker light). The brass tube was pushed through the hole so it stood slightly proud of the nose as per the prototype marker lights, this was then glued into place and trimmed at the rear so it didn't foul the nose lighting circuit board.
  4. Thanks for the feedback everyone. Painting of the TTG 37 bodies is now complete including the bodyside grilles. As expected the grilles took some time to paint (approx. 4hrs per loco). I brush painted these, trying to avoid seepage around the masking tape and also getting the paint to penetrate into the grille recesses proved quite a challenge (thanks to Stephen "AyrMRG" for his tip of using slightly diluted paint which really helped getting the paint into the recesses). I am quite pleased with the end result, not up to a factory or professional finish but definitely passable. 31201 is also progressing well and ready for transfers / weathering: All of these are now awaiting gloss varnishing prior to transfers and then weathering. There is a bit of a hiatus on the varnishing as my airbrush (a cheapo £10 ebay purchase) has finally stopped working as the rubber seals have perished from constant cleaning with solvent cleaner. I have treated myself to a new Iwata neo which is on its way. I have also started another side project having picked up a Bachmann split box 37 body from ebay recently at a reasonable price, this will become the rather unique 37100 in transrail livery with split boxes at one end and a flush front the other. 37100 also only had one underframe tank (the other presumably having been damaged in the same collision that led to its flush nose). I didn't fancy butchering a functioning 37 chassis for 37100 so decided to use a damaged one that had been sitting in my garage for some time. This one was knocked off a shelf some time ago, smashing one bogie and buffer beam. In a classic case of cut first check later I had also at some point tried to use this chassis under a heavyweight 37 and converted the wrong underframe tank to a flush sided tank. The DCC chip pins are seriously bent and the chassis has also been covered in overspray, dust and cobwebs!: First step was to check the motor to ensure it worked (it did after some cleaning) and then strip the entire chassis to its component parts. Underframe tanks were cut off and a spare was sourced from my spares tank and installed on the chassis. Wheels were cleaned, a spare bogie obtained (again from the spares box) and everything reassembled. Its now ready for final prep (sanding the filler) and painting but first I want to find some more photos of the prototype to see if there are any pipe runs, extra parts etc I can fabricate out of plasticard where the tank has been removed: The body will need its nose end grilles painting rail grey before transfers / weathering. Still some work to do on the flush nose end which is recovered from a heavyweight loco, door hinges have been added to the nose end doors using etched brass mk1 door hinges. At first I tried to replicate the central door lip with a strip of plasticard, this didn't look right (it was so thin it distorted when glued) so has been replaced with thin strips of brass from my spares box. The lights are not quite right - in reality these sit on 37100s nose and are not recessed in the same way as heavyweight conversions, I am in two minds whether to modify these or leave as is.
  5. Plymouth Friary was used to marshal goods trains up until the mid 1980s(?) following closure to passengers. Photos on this link show goods wagons / mixed freights stabled in the platform roads with station buildings / canopies still in existence: http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/p/plymouth_friary/ very modellable aswell as the bridge carrying Tothill Road makes a good scenic break.
  6. The scary thing is it feels like only yesterday!. I was looking over my dads photo collection the other day (I intend to scan them all electronically at some point) and came across the photo below of a young me at Peak Forest on 1st March 1998. I remember the trip well, we drove up from Devon on the Saturday calling in at Bescot on the way and staying the night at Tamworth services. On Sunday we first went to Toton, then Tinsley for one last time as it was due to close that week (it was possibly its last day of operation). At Tinsley Dad got talking to a member of EWS staff who, on hearing we had travelled up from Devon, kindly gave us a guided tour - much to my amazement there were still a number of RFD 47s stabled in the shed. We then went on to Peak Forest having been made aware of its existence in a Rail Express article a couple of weeks before, we weren't disappointed as there were 6 60s and 2 56s stabled up (in a range of liveries including EWS, TTG, Mainline & Loadhaul). I digress slightly, the point being I was shocked when I realised it was 21 years ago!. The resprays are progressing, all main colours done now other than the exec. dark grey roofs. Then I will have to bite the bullet and do the bodyside grilles on the 37s - a lot of fiddly masking, it will no doubt be like pulling teeth!. At least the 31 grilles pop out so they can be painted separately!.
  7. Thanks for the positive comments!. I do try and keep my weathering subtle and towards the "light" end - I find it very difficult to get heavy weathering to look right and scale correctly so avoid doing it.
  8. No 47s recently i'm afraid!, just quality English Electric traction: First up is 37886 and 37670 in EWS livery, both use the Bachmann EWS 37670 as a base (with the correct RSH cant rail grills), both have been resprayed with the appropriate windows / footsteps filled in on 37886 to make it correct for a heavyweight 37/8. Respraying 37670 may seem a bit counter productive as it is a standard Bachmann release already numbered 37670 in EWS livery - I resprayed it as the model had been purchased professionally weathered, there was nothing particularly wrong with the weathering it just wasn't to my taste (solely having been airbrushed on rather than washes in the grills etc). I tried to remove the weathering however it had been sealed with Matt varnish which bloomed necessitating a strip and respray, this also gave an opportunity to respray the gold stripe the correct colour as the Bachmann shade is wrong to my eyes. EWS livery must be one of the easier liveries to spray just need to make sure the gold stripe is straight!. Next a quartet of DRS locos. First up were 20901 & 20906, complete resprays into DRS livery with reinforced windscreens, headlights etc added as appropriate. Transfers were custom made by Rainbow Railways who were really helpful (thanks guys!). DRS locos, specifically Class 20s were not really seen in the South West in the late 90s (I will assume an alternative reality where they worked to Devonport regularly). I have a soft spot for Class 20s as I used to be heavily involved with diesel preservation at the South Devon Railway some years ago (before work, children, marriage, mortgages etc got in the way!) and regularly drove 20110 and 20118 when they were owned by SDDT (both are now owned by HNRC and 20118 is back on the mainline). Unfortunately these two tested my patience somewhat, during stripping the handrail knobs fell out and did not one to go back in during reassembly either breaking, falling out or getting lost. Getting the join between the light grey roof and dark blue was a complete PITA. I gloss varnished both one morning and left them in the garage to dry, a couple of hours later me and my eldest decided to build a baseboard for his Thomas train set - a good deal of fun was had in the garage cutting wood, drilling holes and making a lot of dust. When tidying up I noticed the two 20s now had a rather nice wood chip finish.... oh well, into the superstrip again for round 2!. 37612 and 37607 are Bachmann resprays / conversions both with the correct combinations of RSH / non-RSH cant rail grilles and nose end grilles and one bodyside window on each filled. Nose ends are from the excellent rainbow railways range and only required a small amount of fettling to fit nicely. Both are finished in early DRS livery, the best version of DRS livery in my opinion (partly because I don't fancy trying to get the DRS compass or newer style livery to lie nicely over the bodyside grilles / footsteps). Transfers are again from the Rainbow Railways range. For some reason I got a lot of silvering on both when the transfers were first applied (I don't think I used enough microsol), this was only visible after varnishing a didn't look good. In order to cure it I used a trick from an American forum and used a very sharp knife to pierce the worst silvering on the decals, I then flooded the area with microsol and repeated until the silvering had gone. Next up are these 4 TTG locos - 37412 & 37906 (slug 6) in Transrail, 37719 in RF Petroleum and 31201 in battered RF coal. 31201 has had the radiator grills enlarged to accept the revised type, as usual I cut one side perfectly square and the other was a wonky mess which needed building back up with plasticard and filler.
  9. As others have said, avoid humbrol enamel varnish!. humbrol enamel paints are pretty good but every time I have tried to use their Matt varnish it has dried with a white bloom, the rattle cans also suffer from yellowing see the photo below of 2 resprayed 47s where the varnish has yellowed turning the rail grey to rail beige!: If if you still have your model and haven’t stripped it yet try applying a coat of enamel gloss varnish over the Matt, this should remove the white bloom - I have saved a number of models over the years using this method. For varnishing I only use ready thinned phoenix enamel Matt varnish now - haven’t had any problems so far.
  10. Well 47224 is complete, its a complete respray of a Heljan 47 and represents 47224 as it was when it was transferred from the EWS LWCW pool to Freightliner (later on in its career it was tarted up a bit with nameplates, red buffer beams etc). Not much progress on the layout recently, it is pretty much complete apart from a backscene which I will add at some point. I have however been giving my Wessex trains 2nd generation DMUs a run. I have fond memories regularly travelling to Plymouth and Exeter on Wessex trains units, Wessex didn't really seem to care about the condition of their units and most were pretty grubby. I have tried to replicate this on my models, first is a Bachmann Regional Railways 150 with Wessex Trains patches (from Precision Decals) renumbered as 150232 and weathered: Next is Hornby Regional 153 renumbered and patched as 153329 in Central Trains livery. 153329 was one of two units transferred to Wessex from Central and seemed to run with Central branding still in place for years. Central Trains logos are again from Precision Decals.
  11. Thanks for the feedback everyone. The freightliner 47s are now finished, photo below showing 47303 with the others behind awaiting some DCC chips when I get round to buying some. Also currently on my workbench is 47224 in unbranded TTG and another 47 which will either become 47355 in worn distribution livery or 47358 in freightliner (I haven't decided yet!). I have also been working on respraying a Hornby 08 into BR blue to match a photo my Dad took of it at Bescot in the late 90s. The loco started as another ebay bargain Hornby 08 in intercity livery with damaged footsteps, I did consider leaving it in intercity livery however decided not to as freight 08s in intercity were very rare. This is the real 08623: This is my version: Following a rub down with wet and dry paper to remove the intercity livery I first masked off the wasp stripes (as I am nowhere near skilled enough to paint them!), primed with halfords primer and sprayed the body BR blue. I then sprayed the body again with phoenix faded blue in vertical motions this gives a good starting layer for the patchy / faded blue effect. I never use the faded blue as a base coat / single block of colour as it looks too homogenous and doesn't really replicate the differing shades of blue on a faded loco. I then sprayed the yellow ends with a filter coat of very dilute grey to tone them down. Once the base coats had hardened (3 - 4 days) I painted a diluted brown / dark grey wash around the engine room doors, equipment cabinets etc. This was then wiped off with flat brushes soaked in thinners to clean off areas whilst also leaving dirt in the panel lines / recesses, this was built up in layers over several days particularly around the fuel tanks and air filters. Once happy with the initial dirt wash I dry brushed standard rail blue randomly on the door faces to give a bit more variation to the faded blue paintwork. AK interactive fuel stains were then brushed around the fuel tanks working from pictures so that the fuel spillage / build up is in the correct location. The underframe was initial brush painted with a coat of frame dirt darkened by mixing in a bit of weathered black, once dry the more exposed areas (e.g front of the frames, sandboxes, steps etc) were brush painted with neat frame dirt to give some variation to the colour. The springs were then stippled with dark grey and AK interactive oil stains. Transfers are standard fox transfers, I didn't have a red BS depot sticker so just cut out a red area from a spare set of RTC transfers - it looks OK if you don't look too hard!. The cab side numbers were applied over gloss varnish to prevent any silvering of the carrier film. Silvering looks awful and is one of my pet hates, luckily its really easy to avoid which is why it amazes me that I see some supposedly "professional" resprays with extensive silvering. I don't bother putting the OHLE stickers over gloss varnish as they have no visible carrier film. The gloss varnish on the cab was then sprayed with humbrol matt to deaden it, usually I would finish the whole model with a coat of matt varnish but didn't on this one as I didn't want to loose some of the gloss fuel stains etc.
  12. Thanks Rob, I was probably trying to justify to myself to be honest!. Yes, unrefurbished SSAs in EWS livery were as rare as hens teeth however I think that at least one ran in EWS livery before they were rebodied by EWS (somewhere on the web there is a picture of it at Stanton Gate). Let me know if you want the .stl file for the rebodied SSA and I will send it to you, you will just need to upload it to Shapeways for 3d printing. I think its on a hard drive from an old computer so may take some time to dig it out. Meanwhile transfers have been applied to the Freightliner 47s and a start made on weathering. Here they are taking a piggyback on 47287:- Top of the pile is 47303 "Freightliner Cleveland" which will be in very battered / weathered freightliner livery. The paintshop must have been having a bad day when they did this one as it started to loose patches of its rail grey exposing rail blue beneath and ran in this condition for years. I have tried to replicate this on the model going off photographs. Streaking on the sides is excellent AK interactive dark streaking grime, dabbed on at cantrail level and then pulled down vertically with a flat brush soaked in thinners. Middle is 47337 and finally 47283, both of which will be slightly weathered. Like the prototype 47337 has a flush front at the non-radiator end and 47283 retains its buffer beam cowls (47283 also has standard underframe battery boxes without the long range fuel tank).
  13. Well, plans for the shunter changed slightly. Looking through some of my dads old photos I found this photo of 09203 on a local trip working around Newport during the late 90s (98 / 99 ish), further photos on the web show this loco running around in 2000 / 2001 with BR blue battery box doors (presumably recovered from another loco) and a freshly painted blue exhauster cabinet on one side. On a whim I decided I would model this loco instead. First up was to respray into departmental grey livery, I masked off the existing Hornby wasp stripes / yellow ends as my skills are nowhere near good enough to paint these!. The departmental grey was then faded with coats of light grey (not white) painted on and rubbed off. Photo below, as usual it looks a bit of a mess at this stage:- Dirt was then built up around the panel lines, cabinets etc using streaking dirt from the excellent AK interactive range. This was painted on and then rubbed off with cotton buds dipped in thinners leaving "dirt" in recesses, panel lines etc. Shades of brown where then used to weather the fronts and tops of the battery boxes and exhauster cabinets, again applied with a brush and rubbed off. These steps are shown in the two photos below. The exhaust was painted a rust colour (as per the prototype) and rust / grime streaking added to the cab and bonnet. Process for this was to roughly paint some rusty / brown colours along the centre line of the roof and drag downwards with a flat brush soaked in thinners, again building up the effect over several coats. The underframe was then hand painted with a base layer of weathered black tinged with frame dirt, once dry frame dirt was applied again (with a brush) to highlight areas less prone to "gungy" dirt (e.g the foot steps, sand box faces etc). AK interactive engine oil was then applied to the springs, axle boxes and connecting rod joints to give a greasy / oily look to these areas. Photo of the finished loco below. Next up on the workbench are these resprayed freightliner grey 47s (two of which were resprayed previously but suffered very badly from humbrol varnish yellowing). They will become well used / battered freightliner 47s.
  14. Next up on the workbench is this Hornby shunter bought from ebay a while back as an absolute bargain (circa £26.00). Despite having been dropped at some point causing damage to the steps and front end marker lights its a good runner which can be repaired quite easily. Unexpectedly it was also DCC fitted however the DCC chip has gone into 58045 from the previous post. Photo below shows the loco partially stripped of its equipment boxes which have been removed to make a respray easier. I am intending to respray this as 08792. A quick look shows that in terms of equipment box layout etc the base model is a fairly good fit, the model is however fitted with earlier style cab doors which will need to be filled to represent the later steel doors 08792 and the front of one of the exhauster cabinets will need to be filed flush to match the prototype. Photo below is 08792 taken in the late 90s at Exeter Riverside yard showing how I intend the finished model to look. 08792 was a particular favourite of mine being a long term resident of Exeter Riverside yard, it could usually be found stabled at the rear of the old goods shed easily visible from Red Cow crossing. I think the small Transrail logos on it were also fairly unique for an 08 shunter?.
  15. Rich, Something like this should do the job:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/On-Off-2Position-Rotary-Select-Selector-Switch-1-NO-10A-600V-AC-XB2-ED21-EJ21-YJ/263432827400?hash=item3d55d1f208:g:oO4AAOSwyXNZ8vQX:rk:44:pf:0 The example above is actually a SPST switch but that's all you need if you are using it to drive a DPDT relay (basically all you need is an on/off switch to energise the relay coil). This is the type of relay you should get:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-G5V-2-DC-12V-2A-DPDT-8Pin-PCB-Mount-Low-cost-Signal-Relay-VQ/163290799437?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D5e0b5b94abff4b0da9e1257f4a1fd47c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D121694775735%26itm%3D163290799437&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 When I got mine they were around £5 for 5 but I assume the increase is due to fluctuating markets, exchange rates etc. Jon
  16. Well a new loco has arrived on shed - Heljan 58045 in battered mainline grey livery. I have a bit of a soft spot for class 58s as they suddenly started turning up on the Fawley to Tavistock Junction tank train in 1997/1998. During this time me and my Dad used to often walk to an overbridge over the railway line on Rattery bank in the evenings, for some reason I wasn't with my Dad when the first 58 worked the train and I didn't believe him when he told me!. This model has had a bit of a hard life. I first obtained it around 2016 in RF coal livery and started the process of turning it into a mainline grey 58 by removing the sector logos, partially repainting where they had been removed, painting the black doors (inexplicably missed by Heljan etc). New mainline logos were applied and then I turned to the weathering. The weathering was, to be honest, a complete disaster! - for some reason I used black for the staining around the bodyside doors which looked awful (when weathering I never use pure black or white as both colours don't "scale" well). I then tried to hide this with a heavy dusting of frame dirt at which point I stood back, realised it was a total mess and hid it in my spares box!. Fast forward 3 years and I had lost the glazing and door guard rails but decided it was salvageable. Door guards were bought from A1 models (not 100% prototypically correct but the best I could get) and spare glazing from Howes. The body was then coated in modelstrip (the white paste), whilst modelstrip isn't actually any good at stripping factory finishes it is very good in removing enamel and acrylic paints. After leaving in modelstrip for a few days the body was cleaned and all of my previous bodging had removed leaving the factory painted bodyshell. The body was then patch repainted (re-doing the blemishes mentioned earlier where the RF logos had been removed). Weathering was a variety of greys watered down and run into the panel lines then rubbed off, followed by dry brushing RF red on the solebar (where the old RF red shows through on the prototype), hand weathering the underframe with various shades of acrylics and tieing it all together with a fine spray of brake dust.
  17. Hi, No real progress since before the New Year. Whilst I do intend to finish this layout I have been slightly distracted by my existing layout (see Embankment Road thread!). The switches are SPDT rotary switches from a old industrial control panel (similar switches are available on ebay). They wont work tortoise / cobalt point motors on their own and have to be used as an on / off switch powering the coil on a DPDT relay. The output side of the DPDT relay is then wired in exactly the same way as you would if you were using a DPDT switch to operate the point motors (just make sure the DPDT relays are 12v and capable of 1-2 amps, again dirt cheap on ebay). Jon
  18. It should be on my "never-use" list due to past experiences of Humbrol Matt varnish drying white, satin drying gloss etc however due to laziness I have continued using it!. This will be the last time. Thanks for this, very interesting. I have never really got on with acrylic paints finding them difficult to spray and achieve a good coverage, based on the above it seems I should practice a bit more and start moving towards acrylics.
  19. First update for a long time!... As posted elsewhere on rmweb ( http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/136463-bury-interchange-in-4mm/ ) I had started building a layout of Bury Interchange with the intention of dismantling Embankment Road so that the new layout could be installed along the same wall in my office. Bury Interchange had progressed to a point where the control panel was built, the station "throat" trackwork was constructed (albeit not very well!) and the first class 504 unit was complete. I started thinking about building the new baseboards and dismantling Embankment Road when it dawned on me - I was actually quite happy with Embankment Road, it had taken me some time to build and with two young sons and a full time job I really don't have the time (or motivation) to start building another layout. So Embankment Road survives to live another day subject to a few changes. The first change I have made is to add a new turnout giving access from the siding around the back of the shed to the siding in front of the admin block, originally this siding was cosmetic only however adding this turnout improves the layouts operational potential. The track now also extends beyond the back of the shed giving a bigger fiddle yard. Photo below shows the new turnout to the admin block siding:- As a result of the new track / turnout the layout has been rewired and the unreliable (cheap!) DPDT toggle switches controlling the turnouts replaced with SPDT rotary switches acting as On/Off switches to DPDT relays which drive the turnouts. All this is mounted in a new control panel. When considering replacing Embankment Road with Bury Interchange I was very mindful of threads I have read on this forum (and elsewhere) comparing the popularity of TMD layouts to the past popularity of GWR BLTs, this comparison would them sometimes be backed up with some negative views around all TMD layouts being un-prototypical, poorly modelled and an excuse to show off the builders collection of out the box locomotives. (I hasten to add that generally the negative comments don't appear on this forum). It is very hard to argue with the first point as it is beyond doubt that TMD layouts are very popular and are the "new" GWR BLT. To my mind the preponderance of TMD layouts is purely down to the realities of modern life. Modern houses are not large and therefore limited space is available for layouts, consider that if modelled prototypically even a small station such as Bury Interchange would be approximately 8ft long (excluding fiddle yard), its not therefore surprising that people model smaller TMD layouts which will fit is smaller spaces and still enable locomotives to be shuffled up and down. If, like me, you also have a young family and full time job then TMD layouts are even more attractive as they take less time to make operational and are well suited to quick 20 minute operating sessions once the kids have gone to bed. Yes, some TMD layouts can be un-prototypical however I hope Embankment Road has some semblance of the prototype given that I have modelled only the rear area of the TMD and added features such as cosmetic sidings and sidings going "off scene" to give a sense of purpose for the TMD and an indication that it sits within the context of a larger marshalling yard. The layout is also rooted in the late 90s when smaller TMDs / LIPs still existed (a challenge for the modern modeller as nowadays locos are maintained and serviced by a man in a van typically at open air sidings, only returning to the larger Depots such as Toton when they require maintenance). A quick trawl of rmweb will show a number of other TMD layouts which are well modelled with a good prototypical grounding and well modelled stock - certainly not just layouts to display out of the box locos. Im not really sure what I am trying to achieve with the above commentary other than to explain my rationale for building (and keeping!) a TMD layout.
  20. Evening all, hopefully someone can offer me some advice. I resprayed these two Heljan 47s into Freightliner Grey around 18 months ago, painting process was fairly standard - halfords primer, phoenix precision top coat, Humbrol gloss varnish (from a rattle can), transfers, weathering and then all sealed with a coat of Humbrol matt varnish (again from a rattle can). Shortly after completion my second son was born and the locos were stored in a display cabinet in my office. Now that the chaos of having a new born has subsided I am "playing trains" again and decided to retrieve these two from the cabinet for a running session. As you can see from the photos the varnish appears to have yellowed, this isn't noticeable on the dark grey areas but the rail grey is now more like rail beige!. I have decided I cant tolerate this as it just looks plain wrong so the locos have been stripped of glazing etc ready for an appointment with some superstrip and a respray to put them out of their misery. Has anyone had this problem before and can it be rectified without needing a fully respray?. I am blaming the Humbrol varnish however any thoughts on possible alternative causes would be appreciated. (Please bear in mind however, they were definitely rail grey when first painted!). Thanks, Jon
  21. Well despite not posting much on here some progress has been made on the actual layout ... well almost. I have been building some of the key layout parts with the intention that once the baseboards are finished (sometime after Christmas) it will be a case of plugging all the main components together and then starting on the scenics. First up is the control panel, this is housed in a 6mm ply laser cut enclosure.The enclosure is a custom unit designed to suit my requirements, I would have used a off the shelf enclosure however none of them were deep enough to suit the switches I intend to use. Panel fascia is shown below. I wanted to give the panel the feel of a real IFS panel without being a 100% replica. Key to this was using some rather nice SPDT rotary switches I have had knocking around in my garage for some time (the switches are from an old industrial control panel and are rated at 415V hence the size issues mentioned previously). The switches act as simple on/off switches to the coil on 12v DPDT relays which then drive signals and stall point motors. I have also used DPDT relays to introduce logic functions / interlocking between signals, track circuits* and points. This logic will prevent signals being pulled off if routes are not set correctly, track circuits occupied or conflicting routes setup. Signals will also be held at amber if the next is not green etc. I am no electronics expert and I am sure there is a better way to do this which would also resolve some of the short comings of my system (e.g the setup does not prevent points being pulled under trains and whilst signals will revert to red if the track circuit in rear becomes occupied they will revert back to clear once the track circuit clears if the switch has not been turned back to red). Panel internals are shown below, my wiring is not the neatest: (* when I refer to track circuit I am referring to DCC block occupancy detectors) Signal and track circuit indications are repeated on the panel using LEDs in light bezels from the same industrial control panel. Eagle eyed people will notice that amber bezels have been used for the red aspects of the platform starters - when illuminated they are red its just I ran out of red bezels!. I have also started on the station throat trackwork. Photo below shows the 504 posed on the templot plan for scale. This shows how big "real" turnouts are especially considering that I have compressed the throat trackwork by around 20%. Construction has started using C&L components. It should be flat bottomed however I have used bullhead as I find it easier to build.
  22. Craig, Great videos - thanks for sharing. I do intend to add lighting at some point, however as it has taken a couple of months to finish the model I am a bit bored of it now!. Will do a bit more on the layout and come back to the unit to add lighting etc, luckily the Bachmann chassis already have lighting connections and a number of SMT LEDs ready to be cannibalised so adding lighting wont be too much of a challenge. Jon
  23. Goodness, I didn't realise that there would be any interest in these. If I have set it up correctly the bogies are available from here:- https://www.shapeways.com/product/J8QKKHAEX/class-504-trailer-bogies?key=ecb34eed4425411510f19b10efed0b2f Its worth noting that as these are designed to fit the Bachmann pickups other bearings (top hat etc) probably wont work as the bearing holes are oversized. Also, the models include shoe gear and cab steps / life guards (for the cab end bogie). If there is any interest it wont take much to modify the 3d model to exclude the shoe gear and cab steps / life guards. Edit - I should also add they are also fairly expensive for what they are, this is down to the shapeways pricing system. Jon
  24. The 3d printed gresley bogies have arrived and rather pleasingly look the part but also accomodate the Bachmann pickup arrangement. Unfortunately I did have to make a slight alteration to the pivot area as this was undersized on the 3d print, I had also omitted a notch detail on the original Bachmann bogies which prevents them from rotating too far - luckily these mods were very minor. The underframes were also completed using some 3d printed bits and EMU underframe components bought off ebay. The underframe arrangement isn't 100% accurate as its based on photos and a bit of guesswork. Photos of the Gresley bogies and WIP underframes below: The underframes were then painted matt black and weathered. Handrails have been added using 0.3mm wire and multi-working connector cable using 0.5mm wire. Cabs have been glazed using the transparent plastic from a Heljan 47 box cut to size and windscreen wipers added from a spare Southern Pride 304 etch, I have only added wipers to the drivers windows as it appears that most had lost the secondmans side wipers by 1991. The first 504 is now complete and, whilst its a bit rough around the edges, I am very happy with how it has turned out: Next task is to build the turnout arrangement which forms the station throat. The turnouts have been drawn in templot: I intend to build this as a single unit away from the layout. Whilst I have handbuilt turnouts before I have never built a diamond crossing so this is going to be a bit of a learning curve, one big compromise is that I am going to build the turnout using bullhead track components from C&L (the prototype being flat bottomed). I am doing this as most of the parts to build flat bottomed track require soldering and my soldering skills are not that good!, in the scheme of things however I don't think its too much of a compromise....
  25. Progress on the underframe continues albeit slowly. My focus over the last week or so has been glazing the cabs and installing the correct gresley bogies. I obtained some bogie frames for the motor bogies from DC kits which were then grafted onto the Bachmann bogies by cutting away the Bachmann bogie frames and retaining the centre pivot area and pickups. I also obtained some cast frames for the trailer bogies from ebay, these were very good castings however unfortunately I made a bit of a hash trying to use the Bachmann pivot areas and pickups etc resulting in some rather wobbly bogies (predominantly due to the trailer bogies being prototypically shorter than the motor bogies and therefore shorter than the Bachmann bogie units I was trying to fit them to). I had always intended to 3d print the new underframe equipment boxes so decided I would just 3d print the trailer bogies aswell. CAD drawing below showing current progress, the red bits are the existing Bachmann pickups - I have designed the 3d model to (hopefully!) accommodate these. I'm not really keen in knocking up 3d CAD images in the evenings as I use a computer most of the day at work, however it is a necessity where my modelling skills aren't up to certain tasks.
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