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rushdenx1

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  1. I have a Bachmann Class 37 fitted with a Loksound V4 decoder. It is fitted with sound, but only has a basic small round speaker and sounds very tinny. I have read with interest about the EM speakers but do not want to get involved in modifying the loco. I am therefore looking for the best speaker that will improve my sound and fit without any mod, accepting it will not be a match for a EM1 or 2, but will reduce the tinny sound. I have heard about bass enhanced and bass reflex speakers but do not know the difference or even what Ohm to get. Any help appreciated. Thanks Kevin.
  2. I have a OO Gauge Layout which has scrap metal yard. I am looking for a suitable model vehicle that would depict taking scrap metal out of SSA wagons either by grab or magnet into the yard or vice versa. Can anyone suggest where I can buy a suitable vehicle in the right HO/OO scale. Any help appreciated Kevin.
  3. Personally I prefer a bit of variety when it comes to the sounds on offer. I have a number of Class 37's and have at least one fitted with Sound from the main suppliers: Digitrains Active Drive, Legomanbiffo Drivelock, Howes, SWD and Olivia's. Each have their own merits and I still enjoy the range of different sounds you get and the different driving techniques required. Yes, the sounds and speakers have improved, but unless you're a connoisseur there's no need to start replacing or upgrading your whole fleet. One of my favorites is still a Loksound 3.5 with SWD sound. Kevin.
  4. I have a weathered Class 37 but at some time a couple of the horns have been re-glued and where this has been done the shiny glue residue is visible. What can I use to cover this so that it is matt again and does not stand out. I have never done weathering so an easy solution would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin.
  5. Many Thanks Paul for your detailed response. I have tried the F5 / F6 combination and it works a treat. Thrashtastic !!! . I also tried opening the throttle more quickly and that also gives an excellent quicker ramp up. Thanks again. Kevin.
  6. I have a Class 37 fitted with Digitrains Zimo ActiveDrive Sound v16.03. I love the sound but was wondering if there was a way of adjusting a CV value to make the sound step kick in at a lower speed. My layout is not very long and on my NCE PowerCab I currently have to be around 60 and 80 steps before the sound goes to the next levels. Thanks Kevin.
  7. I have a sound fitted Hornby R2510 Class 121 single car DMU which I am interested in getting directional lights and internal coach lights fitted. Does anyone know someone who offers this service. Contact details appreciated. Thanks Kevin.
  8. I have a Class 37 fitted with Digitrainsound Multi-Drive Version 2.0. Is there a Class 37 ActiveDrive version available? Thanks Kevin.
  9. I have a Hornby R2510 Class 121 DMU 'W55021' in BR Blue. I want to get it fitted with sound. I am aware that this can be obtained from both Howes and Legomanbiffo. My dilemma is that my 'shelf' layout is only 6 feet long and therefore probably not long enough to reach the speeds required to hear the classic gear changes. I have now seen that Digitrains offer Class 128 sound with the ability to manually change gear at any speed. I am not a connoisseur when it comes to DMU sounds, so could the Class 128 sound be an option or would it sound totally out of place in a Class 121. Alternatively is there a way to get Howes or Legmanbiffo sound adapted for my short layout so I can hear the gear changes. Any advice appreciated. Kevin.
  10. Great layout. What are the car park yellow barriers made from ? Kevin.
  11. My OO Gauge layout now has over 80 led and grain bulb lights on it. They are all powered through a cheap 12v three pin adaptor. I have noticed that the lights have also dimmed since I first started adding the lights and therefore assume that the adaptor is not 'fit for purpose'. What sort of 12v power source do I need that is capable of dealing with so many lights and where can I buy one from. Thanks Kevin.
  12. I have a OO Gauge DCC layout and want to wire in about 8 12v street lights to be turned on and off using a switch . I have attached the lights to two parallel wires. Can someone advise me as to the best switch to use and how to wire the 4 wires onto the switch (2 from the 12v power supply plus the two wires from the lights). Thanks Kevin.
  13. Thanks for the response. A couple of questions: 1/ Is a RJ10 telephone cable suitable or is the current/voltage insufficient ? If it is ok, do I connect all the wires to the CDU / probe. 2/ If I use a kettle lead, what core (colour) cable do I connect to the CDU / probe. Kevin.
  14. Following on from my last layout 'Gonerby Lane' in 2010. Here is my latest OO gauge DCC Shelf layout. It measures 8' by 1' with a 5' x 1' (fiddle yard) extension connected at right angles. The layout was built with a number of key 'personal' requirements which some purist may frown at. 1/ A layout with as much track as possible to allow for a variety of train movements (clearances are therefore tighter than in real life). 2/ In amongst a number of shunt signals, two colour light signals are fitted with feathers as I like them, although again probably would not appear in a goods yard. 3/ As it is permanently on display in my work office I wanted it to look good even without any trains or wagons on it. 4/ The fiddle yard has been finished fully landscaped to resemble goods yard sidings, rather than being left bare. Again as it is in view permanently. 5/ The layout is fitted with a lot of lights, in buildings, on street, yard, cars. With flashing police lights, crossing lights, beacons, welding etc so it looks good even at night. The first picture is the main layout. The second is the landscaped 'fiddle yard'. Any comments good or bad are welcome. Kevin.
  15. I have fitted three buffer stops with 3v red stop lights. I have used the 'daisy chain' method for connecting the lights together with one resistor fitted at the end of one wire. The light is still however too bright. How can I reduce the brightness. Thanks Kevin.
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