Jump to content

meatloaf

RMweb Gold
  • Content Count

    521
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by meatloaf

  1. Might still be worth a call mate
  2. If you want to see a bad review see the one sams trains did on the Heljan 1361 tank loco
  3. when I was last in trident trains he had some in. Hes in the shop Wednesday to sunday and is still doing mail order
  4. Does it keep adding 2 to the basket by any chance or randomly adding extras?
  5. Ive had deliveries this week from Rails of Sheffiled, Track Shack and Gaugemaster. All received within a week of ordering. I had to order from more than one shop as no single shop had all the items I wanted in stock particularly peco points and metcalfe kits.
  6. Hi all Which decoders are recommended for the DJM 14xx and J94? Cheers
  7. Now in stock at rails of sheffiled https://railsofsheffield.com/news/articles/3351-Dapol-o-14xx-48xx-and-58xx
  8. Brilliant, I normally holiday in primrose valley and we come to Whitby to travel on the NYMR. I could drop my loco off on the Monday and pick it up either later in the day or on the Friday on way home.
  9. Do you offer a while you wait service?
  10. So to follow up I lifted my track this morning. I decided to mod the points as well but I struggled with bonding the stock rails using the thin wire. Big thanks to the chap at trident trains that did my half a dozen points in a flash. Whilst I was there I picked up the autofrog units and a couple of the DCC concepts bus bar units. When I got home I wired up the frogs and track feeds to the autofrogs and thankfully it all works as it should do. I decided to put the DCC80s in the non scenic area of the layout mounting them on the surface of the baseboard. All in all im glad I went ahead and did it.
  11. ive got a load of the Hornby point clips, I was thinking of using those after cutting them little wire links? bad idea?
  12. Ive decided im going to modify my points and add frog switching for maximum reliability. The medium and large radius points have an exposed rail and stock rail on the underside where they can be bonded together. The small radius are different - see pic. Do I need to cut away the plastic sleepers and if so where would you recommend doing it?
  13. Thanks for the advice im going to get some DCC80s at the weekend from my local shop and see what happens. Means lifting all the ballast to get the points up but I think id rather do it properly this time
  14. thank you for the reply. Will I need to modify the points or use them as they come from the box?
  15. I don't really need a point motor but if I use the DCC80 will it still switch the frog polarity? If so does that mean the point blade is only essentially there to set the direction the train travels thru the point? Will I need to make the modifications to the point ive seen online - bonding the rails together and snipping the little bridge wire? The instructions for the autofrog don't say. My points at present are exactly as they come from the box And finally it looks like the DCC80 only needs 3 wires - the track feeds and the frog wire. The track feeds can they come from the DCC bus or do they need to come direct from the point? Sorry for the newbie questions
  16. Hi probably easy questions but... Using electrofrogs for the first time and its all wired up and working. Occasionaly the loco stops on the frog and loses all power. If I touch the tie bar the loco carries on, so the blades either dirty or not making good contact. So reading up online ive seen people using point motors with a separate add on for the poliarity of the frog. I don't really need a point motor but if I use the DCC80 will it still switch the frog polarity? If so does that mean the point blade is only essentially there to set the direction the train travels thru the point? Will I need to make the modifications to the point ive seen online - bonding the rails together and snipping the little bridge wire? And finally it looks like the DCC80 only needs 3 wires - the track feeds and the frog wire. The track feeds can they come from the DCC bus or do they need to come direct from the point? Sorry for the newbie questions
  17. In the new 24 all you need to do is install the sound decoder of youre choice and youre ready to go
  18. So the layout is now up and running and all wired up correctly. Whilst at one of my local shops I saw the DCC concepts busbar and it tidied up the wiring no end. Whilst the trackplan is fairly simple I feel very pleased to have done it. I had wanted a DCC Sound 03 from Bachmann but feared that the old insulfrogs would casue issues, but now when funds allow it will be the next loco purchase.
  19. Ive finally done it... I ended up putting IRJs on all frogs. All the tracks at the B end now have feed wires at the ends of the tracks. Ive also pit a pair of feeds on the top part of the loop and a single feed on the lower part of the loop. The cabling will need to be neatened up a bit so ill get more wire tomorrow. But for now its all working as it should
  20. Im struggling with this. Ive slightly modified the trackplan and for now done away with the kickback siding. Ive highlighted in black and red where the track feed is and in blue where the insulated joiners are. Im struggling because if point A is set to straight the loco runs fine along that line but everything else below that point is dead. Change point A to curved route and everything is live except the top track which goes dead, apart from beyond the crossover marked as B which is live? When point A is curved the bottom two sidings are live even if there point is against them Help!!! Where should other track feeds be? What am I missing I bet its something obvious
  21. Apologis im on DCC ive posted in the wrong place. Maybe a mod can move it to the right section.
  22. thanks for the replies. The 2nd extreme seems the way to go. I don't really need to motorise the points but I am considering using dcc80 units to switch the frog polarity
  23. Decided to bite the bullet and get some electrofrogs. I have quite a simple track plan. I know I need insulated joiners on the frogs but where do I need power feeds?
  24. youll either need to get a prodigy advance or get an advance handset to work with your express control box
  25. Just seen this from hattons https://www.hattons.co.uk/newsdetail.aspx?id=749&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=mar-0595-dapolgwrmanorannouncement&fbclid=IwAR23krWFlpx2WOsBWZmuoGNn1CHq17NhaY86Mnzp7frTaWL3zH__tVUPEHg
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.