Steve_Beattie
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I'm looking at the Dodge Chassis and as it's up for a refurb will print it at a new angle to see if that works. The distortion on the van body I didn't see so my apologies there I think that's one of the older prints but worth looking at. I think I know what the issue is.
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Please I'm trying to retire! An Ergo cab is on the list.
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The headlamp lenses should be pre-formed and are in with the glazing?
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I've used some low voltage LED's from Amberley Services in one of my old demonstrators. They show us the hidden inside quite well.
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I'd be interested to learn a bit more about these van interiors as they all seem to be quite different. I guess just providing a basic set allowing the modeller to customise works.
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I feel your pain. Everytime I make a demonstrater I think 'that's ok', then take some pics on my ageing Samsung S5 and - oh dear! As you can see by the parade of spills below! They look ok from a distance trust me.
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Hi no those don't it's only the Leyland 45/150's and Cargo's that do.
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OK hint on the glazing. The screen is oversize and pre-formed so cut around the base and reduce the material bit by bit until it sit's nicely. Some 320 grit abrasive paper helps. Std PVA wood glue is a good adhessive and dries clear.
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Top of the window screen? Hmm need to look deeper into this!
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This made an interesting read and I'm sorry the O/P had a couple of issues most notably the floor which I can only appologies for letting it slip through. I can't give exact product details for fear of advertising but the floors on all four vans I do are now ABS or PLA FDM printed (In plain English stronger and dead flat!) as is the tail lift. Big thank you to the person who posted interior pics as well very usefull. Does anyone have pics of the inside of any of the Re-railing vans too?
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I believe Pheonic Presicion Paints do the correct Leaf Green shade?
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I'm going to see if changing the location of the supports helps the body alignment. They matched perfectly on the test run I did so I think it's me being a bit heavy handed during the clean up! I'm also wondering if it's worth combining the wheel arces to the floor and the countersinking the body cross members into said floor while adding some details such as chassis and drive shaft etc. The AEC Swift I'm working on will feature that as the floor is quite detaild but that's for another day.
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I think I need to reposition the supports to inside the body when printing. This should help the mating of the sections as there'll be nothing or very little to clean. It's good to know the ribs are correct. Regarding the LV1 this question has been raised and I did investigate a couple of years back. The LV1 was constructed using bus techniques. Note the wording - very important - it's not a National on a wagon chassis. I need to get some quality info on it before I can proceed further but it's something that could be of interest.
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Hmm I wonder why there was a need to replace the roof struts, Where there too many? Where they the wrong width? What I could do is include a 3d printed 'Comb' to assist with filling. The lamps are a pain. Like the windscreen they're hot pressed and it's intended that the appatures are painted prior to fit. A lot of people have used 2mm LED's instead. I've been experiementing with clear resin with not the best results but there is some clear 3d resin around so I may try that.
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Morning everyone. Thought I'd come on and make a few observations. Firstly I did make an error when creating the Double rear wheel STL. file and forgot to take a slice out! I'll be correcting that! With regard to the floor section, this to me was a sticking point. During development tests I foud the U shapped body sections tried to warp and expand outward during the curing process. With FDM this doesn't happen but the detail is considerably less and the render lines are of course more pronounced. To stop this I needed to fit the cross struts in place. This of course causes problems with the floor. As you can't really see it, I decided to simply just cut a piece of plasticard and it was intended to sit above these struts. I didn't intend it to come out once fitted (This was a lesson learned from the first Resin Bodied kit.), if need it could be secured by using Copydex type adhesive. Regarding the comment that these kits are "an aid to scratch building", as I put in my corrispondence with the O/P, I challange anyone to scratch build a Leyland National in the time this kit can be put together. That asside I'm not allodoxaphobic and welcome and give consideration to all feedback.