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Gilloverland

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  1. Just picked one up today to replace a hand built point which was destroyed when I tried to lift it to alter the track plan. They are pretty good but I think its a case of two steps forward and 3 back when it comes to this uni-frog. There are two locations where a short is possible, even with modern wheel profiles. I'll add that It hasn't shorted yet but having had a play with a few wheel-sets its looks more than possible so I'm not taking the chance! I'll add the pictures later but I have started to modify them to how I feel they should have been made - IE live frog. Fortunately the st
  2. Put me down for a J72 or two and I think those Thomson are stunning!
  3. Try this: https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/an-alert-regarding-roco-z21-accessory-addressing-problems/
  4. I agree that the videos I've seen of the mogul make it sound very similar to the 8Fs and Black 5s. I believe the main factors in a locomotive's sound (chuff) are the boiler pressure, super heating and cylinder number and size (all 3 are super heated and have a boiler pressure of 225lb, the 8F and Black 5s have 2 cylinders 18.5" x 28" and the mogul 2x 18" x 28").. When you think that in 00 the models are 76 x smaller than the real thing, it ought really to be close enough, especially if the project can be 'built' with the correct whistle. I'm currently using a BR std 4 sound for my mog
  5. Just a quick update to my tales of woe with the LMS models, I got a replacement BR early crest model and it runs a dream, no clicking and no wobble, yes there might be small issues around the valve gear but I know that if I attempted to build a kit it would A cost more and B not look as good as the Bachmann model. With that in mind I'm now happy.
  6. OK, I can give that ago. Just to clarify, the issue is the combination lever lifting up the radius rod slightly rather than swinging back and forth
  7. After letting the 2nd model run in a little, it does seem to have improved and is much better than the first (which had a loud clicking) although I'm still not 100% happy with it. I've taken a couple of videos of each side running at the same speed (ss17/128). https://youtu.be/1axCI13zACQ https://youtu.be/-5ykCaVnkdQ Please feel free to comment or compare to others, I need to know if I'm being picky or if there is indeed an issue with joint of the radius rod / combination lever. Nathan
  8. Well I'm disappointed to say the least! Picked mine up this afternoon and rushed home, fitted a chip and proceeded to 'run it in' and that's where the problems began. Straight away it was evident there was a clicking noise as it running, closer inspection showed it do be coming from the radius rod and combination link which was moving up and down rather than swing to and fro... so remove the chip, race back to the shop and exchanged it for another, back home fit chip... no click this time but definitely play / movement from the same place. This one runs smoother and quieter but it doesn't l
  9. The first thirty had a Midland-type “bell” whistle, but a Stanier Caledonian-type hooter was fitted to the final ten.
  10. Does any one know if the latest Bachmann 37s have a different wiring set-up? I've followed the 'red gate models' posts to the letter and got directionall cab lights that go out when it moves but at one end I have no tail lights or marker lights? Edit - for anyone else who finds this thread, the settings are indeed correct, just make sure that the contacts which spring down on to the pub pads at each end are making good contact - after a lot of head scratching, this turned out to be the problem!
  11. Sorry to drag up and old thread but would a sugarcane under the fan and a bass reflex in the tanks (in parallel) provide the best of both worlds?
  12. For me the only sound that comes close (and I have a few from different sources) are those from locoman, no other sound seems to create a 'chuff' like his, even when using a 'sugarcube'.
  13. Not much to it, I didn't see it with the body off but was told it has a small zimo chip hard wired on the side of the motor (where the standard Hornby 4pin plug and socket would be) and the smallest sugar cube at the front where the Hornby chip goes - there's a bit extra room as it was designed to have a fly wheel. Also Jeremy at digitrains had added some extra pickups to aid current collection as there isn't much room for stay alive, although when I do mine I reckon if I ditch the NEM couplings I might get a capacitor between the frames at the back maybe...
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