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Jan W

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    Nieuwerkerk aan den IJssel, Netherlands

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  1. Tom, those look wonderful and it’s almost unbelievable that one can produce such trackwork on a small printer at home! One observation though: it seems the webbing between the sleepers is quite high, is there enough space to cover it in ballast? Jan
  2. Do you know what track voltage your dcc system gives? If it is around 16V or maybe more, could it be an idea to try to reduce it to approx. 12V? Safer for the capacitors. The zener still limits the voltage on the capacitors to the max. value. Jan
  3. The caption was: A view of ‘Copenhagen Fields’ on display at the Warley Show. No further reference to the photographer. Jan
  4. I like it, pm sent. Jan
  5. You’ll need a flangeway of 0.7mm minimum because N gauge flanges are approx 0.5mm wide. Jan
  6. Tom, I happen to have an almost finished chassis for a Farish SECR C class. I bought the C class as spare parts without the chassis with the intention to build a 2FS chassis for it. I never finished the finescale layout so I tried to make it run on N gauge trackwork with the finescale wheels I also bought for it. This was when I still had trackwork to NMRA standards (0.7mm flangeways) but I abandoned the idea of using it when I converted the layout to accept RTR stock out of the box. Maybe I’ll reconsider after the tests I just did. Here are some photos I just took on the N gauge layout with 0.85mm flangeways and a BTB of 7.9mm. There are definitely some pitfalls. Here you see the wheel hanging in the air. It works as long as the center of gravity is above the center driver. Flangeways are 0.85mm so you can imagine that the gap on Peco track (1.2mm flangeway on the crossing) is A LOT bigger. This is what happens if the center of gravity is above one of the first or last driver. The wheel falls into the gap and lifts the flange of the driver on the opposite side of the chassis off the track. (Here the rear left falls into the gap lifting the front right flange above the rail). Using a BTB distance of 7.9mm gives enough clearance on the crossing. It can work as long as you can keep the center of gravity above the center drivers. Can be a challenge but it’s up to you if you want to try it. A cheap way to try if a chassis can work on Peco track is to make a chassis of evergreen square channel (6.4mm I think), drill 3 holes through it at the correct dimensions for the loco you want to build and put 3 axles with wagon wheels in it. PM me if you want a few axles (at the expense of p&p from the netherlands) Jan
  7. I have tried to run 6-coupled locos with 2FS wheels on scratchbuilt n gauge track to NMRA standards and it works on normal track and standard points. However it won’t work on more complex pointwork like 3-way or double slips. But this was on track with flangeways of 0.7mm where Peco track has flangeways of 1.2/1.3mm. In the end I decided to convert the layout (just four points) to standard N gauge so I can run stock straight out of the box. This also means that I have to build new chassis for some locos using Farish or Dapol wheels that are available as spares. My advice: if you want to keep using your code 55 trackwork accept that the wheels have to be a bit coarser and use standard N gauge wheels for your locos. Modern wheels don’t look bad especially if you keep in mind that they are tiny when in use on the layout and not blown up in a photo like in this link: https://www.ngaugenews.com/post/new-efe-n-gauge-j94-liveries-and-additional-pba-wagons-announced Jan
  8. I’m afraid that the finetrax system still has oversized flangeways. The rail section (code 40) may be to scale but the flangeways are still quite generous. Problem is that the back to back dimensions of rtr rolling stock is set to work well with the coarse standards of the mainstream railsystems. Often approx 7.3-7.4mm In order to allow stock with these back to back dimensions to traverse the finetrax points the flangeways have to be approx 0.85 mm if I’m correct. On the finetrax website you can download printable templates, you can then compare them with your code 55 points. Jan
  9. Free to a good home (only p&p from the Netherlands): converted wheelsets for a Dapol terrier. Original wheels turned down and association rims fitted. Wheels run true and quartering is fine. Jan
  10. Trespa is a Dutch brand of HPL panels (high pressure laminate). This seems to be a leading UK brand: https://www.elspanels.co.uk It must be widely used in the UK too, here in the Netherlands it seems as if everything that people don’t want to paint is clad in Trespa (HPL of course…) panels: dormers, roof gutters, boards around the flat roof of house extensions etc. Jan
  11. Richard, I think @Yorkshire Square didn't suggest changing the track radius but shifting the whole track circle towards the front of the layout like this: Jan
  12. I had the same problem for a very long time but I recently noticed a notch in the shoe of the jigsaw. If you follow the line with this notch and don't look at the saw blade it is much easier to cut 'straight'. Not really straight but much better than I ever managed before. Grabbed this image from iFixit: Jan
  13. Klaus, Did you think about glueing 2mmSA tophat bearings in the original bearings? I did this with a Farish van and it works fine. IIRC I used some plasticard shims to get the axles to fit corectly. No idea what axle length you would need with the Minitrix coach but you can simply try it without glue first of course. Jan
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