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Jan W

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Everything posted by Jan W

  1. It is not possible to compare slow running of these motors with the test you did. As you already said the iron cored motor will have to overcome the cogging where the coreless motor hardly has any resistance when running unloaded. So it seems to perform less well on slow speeds but you'll be surprised how well it will perform in normal use. Jan
  2. I really can't wait to come to the Diamond Jubilee meeting next year and see CF there!!
  3. It looks wonderful and I still can't understand how you chop up and modify existing structures and make them look as if nothing has ever happened. But... where is "Kings Cross Goods Station Refreshment Club”? Jan
  4. I have never printed anything (I only ordered from Shapeways until now) but from what I read here it seems that you should angle the workpiece relative to the build plate to prevent suction. The edge of your plate is now parallel to the resin and will stick to it. I think? Jan
  5. I solved this by powering all equipment on my workbench (lathe, mill, soldering iron, lamp, micro drill) from one switched socket block. I always leave the lamp switch on, I only use the switch on the socket block. Impossible to forget to switch off power because the lamp will stay on then. Jan
  6. I did a quick test with the Vivak sheet by clamping it in the inner ring of a ball bearing with a steel bush to press it against the bearing Then I put it in boilt water for approx. 5 min and cooled it with cold water. It works very well, it keeps its form without springing back, there is only a very small gap between the plastic and the bush: And this is the result. The surface is not completely smooth because I left the protective foil on. I think that a very smooth former will give better results. Jan
  7. You could try Bayer Vivak copolyester sheet. It is availavle in 0.5mm and can be formed when warm. I found some info in English here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.stephen-webster.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Vivak-PETg-Solid-copolyester-sheet-datasheet.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjih9j-lNruAhVFPuwKHWlBAPoQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0cHk9OH5DS4WzhcdnO11yh&cshid=1612783431178 My 'local' (15km from home) model shop sells it. I use it as glazing material but I haven't tried forming it. Jan
  8. I looked it up in Stephen Williams' GW branch line modelling, this confirms your suspicion: 'Standard arrangements show the rail immediately in front of the pens set in concrete with drainage gullies to facilitate cleansing'. Jan
  9. That's quite an impressive formation! What is the y-turnout top right in the last picture used for? Is it in some kind of run-round track? The bottom track seems to have nowhere to go to.
  10. Have you considered a modular concept? I have a similar 'problem', I share my layout room with the rest of the family. My daughter has her desk and a lounge chair and we also use it to dry the laundry. No space left for a permanent layout. I've recently decided that I will build modules that are easily set up and connected with some 'blank space' in between. Two terminus stations (one is a junction to the main line aka fiddle yard) and at least one station in between. Can be extended in the future or I can build more modules and use different modules in a running session. In your case it will be a bit more difficult with a four track main line but maybe u can use two lines for through running? Jan
  11. Richard, The december MRH magazine has a feature about making ballast in any colour from sand. https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/ Seems like quite a bit of work but the result is very nice. Jan Edit: your coffee ballast looks very good. It's a bit difficult to see but am I right that the loose grain effect is a bit lost because of glue or paint?
  12. Perhaps file or mill a 90 degree slot in the rear face? Then you won't have to bend the whole thickness.
  13. You often need a bit of luck to find something specific. Everyone uses a slightly different search text so it helps if other people give it a try. Most annoying thing is when you have seen something but can't find it again when you need it...
  14. Is this what you're looking for? https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Lathe-Round-Length/dp/B07KZHJ1HP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Round+steel+rod+1.2mm&qid=1606589312&sr=8-1
  15. Camera's try to enhance detail with a sharpening algorithm, I think that is what happens here. On more advanced camera's this is adjustable but I would be very surprised if an iPhone (or any other phone) had this option.
  16. The coaches are in the Shapeways marketplace so the designer also gets his fee. And shipping costs are rediculous (they are in Eindhoven, Netherlands so no international shipping) I just cheched at Shapeways, prices in dollars: 2 coach bodies $64.54, handling $1.96, shipping $15.72, total $80.26 So not far off the €75 I estimated. But since your experience is different I'll draw a simple box shape with the dimensions of the coach and see if printing my own design is more affordable. Thanks for asking! Jan Edit: Simon, I just noticed that the coaches I'm looking for are your SECR push- pull coaches! You offer a lot of very nice designs on Shapeways!
  17. I have a question about wall thickness for coaches. From what I have read it seems that a wall thickness of approx. 1mm is recommended. This would give problems with glazing, like the old rtr offerings. If I draw a coach with a recess on the inside around the window aperture and leave a wall thickness of 0.4mm, would that print well? I did something similar with a Dapol autocoach where I milled a recess for the glazing material on the inside. I seems that buying my own printer will also be cheaper than printing through Shapeways. The coaches I want to build are available on Shapeways but would cost around €75,- (incl. shipping costs). If I add that to the few parts that I already had them printed I would have spent half the cost of my own printer. And I would make more use of 3D printing because it would be affordable... Jan
  18. The -now retired- toolmaker at work recommended 2 flute cutters for milling slots. Idea is that the cutter deflects a bit when it cuts but when it only has two flutes the other flute doesn't touch any material. Must only be valid for shallow cuts because of the twisting of the flutes
  19. Julia, The brackets you made for te hob and the MF70 look like 3D prints. Are these accurate enough direct from te printer of do you have to machine them afterwards? And do you need a very sophisticated printer for parts like this? The hob looks very professional
  20. Here is a link how to reduce the speed of the MF70 adapting the original controller board: https://www.instructables.com/Reducing-the-Speed-of-the-PROXXON-MF-70/
  21. You don't need collets to machine wheels. It's just quicker if hou have to do many (and of different sizes). I usually chuck a piece of plastic rod, face it square and bore a hole in which the wheels are a press fit. Chamfer the inside corner of the hole with a countersink so the radius of the flange doesn't sit against the plastic. Use the tailstock center to press the wheel against the plastic, if necessary with a piece of rod between the center and the wheel if the center doesn't reach the wheel. This gives a 100% true running setup without any chance of the chuck marking the thread. Remove the wheel from the mandrel with your fingernails behind the flange or with a wooden or plastic rod through the spindle bore. Of course you will need a collet if you want to machine the wheel face but then a small size collet is all you need. Jan
  22. I switched from a Sieg lathe to a Taig (Peatol in the UK) and the Taig is much more refined (except for the large AC motor). The Sieg lathes are a bit rough but work fine. I had a smallish one, the C1. After a few years I replaced the spindle bearings with bearings from Arc eurotrade which were a huge improvement. I was not happy with how the tailstock was made, the barrel was a bit sloppy in the tailstock casting and there is no proper solution to prevent it from turning. The clamping screw runs in the keyway and that is it. Impossible to use with small drills, in the end I added an extra toolpost to the cross slide and mounted a small drill chuck on the second toolpost. ER collet chucks for the Unimat are available from RC machines in Luxemburg: https://www.rcm-machines.com/en/search?sSearch=collet%2Bchuck%2Bm12&p=1
  23. There's a prototype for everything.... Edit: what happend to the buffer of this wagon? It would not be used in regular traffic like this I think?
  24. There's even a picture of the Aerofilms De Havilland with photographers: https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/francis-lewis-wills-jerry-shaw-and-claude-friese-greene-in-a-dh98-biplane-aerofilms-ltd/kAH9r_6ojIczUQ
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