Jump to content

Duncan.

Members
  • Content Count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

712 Good

1 Follower

About Duncan.

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Walking Music

Recent Profile Visitors

113 profile views
  1. Hi Simon, I would recommend that you use the real thing, twigs from the garden/park of diameter 1-2mm are best. I attach some of my otas for reference... cheaper than bought loads and individual too. We have since improved the vinyl tape strapping. I think you may find that twigs are less weight too. Cheers Duncan
  2. Thanks Rich and Martin, I think I have mastered the basics, but could do with some help with the finer points,no pun intended. I will check the various links when I have a little time, but thanks to both of you. Cheers Duncan
  3. Hi, A very suitable and attractive addition to your layout Simon. Cheers Duncan
  4. Hi Simon, I tried to PM you but you can't receive messages, can you check your settings so you can Cheers Duncan
  5. Hi Simon I am doing the 3 Peaks in early May, I practice on the 3 Peaks! Last weekend it was Whernside and Ingleborough. I will have a look through my etches on Sunday. Cheers Duncan
  6. Hi Simon, I like the 100 tonners, I have a box of etches , I'll take a look through to see if I have any for you. Little progress with my own projects I'm training for the 3 Peaks walk, which is taking much of my spare time. Cheers Duncan
  7. Almost any air brush will be fine... badger air brushes are my weapons of choice. They do (for the 150) fine medium and large heads , if you are using enamels the medium is good, if you are are spraying O gauge you may want a larger air brush such as the 175. I would say a dual action internal mix air brush is essential for weathering. Any airbrush is only as good as the compressor used, Best air brush in the world with a poor compressor without an air reservoir will never give good results, canned air should not even be considered. The other essential is a proper cartridge type face mask. Cheers Duncan
  8. Hi Imustbemadatmyage, I see you are in West Yorks... so am I. Perhaps you would like to come and see my N layout, if there's a mistake to be made I've probably made it.... you can check my model by clicking this link Have you a plan or are you 'winging it?' I suggest you start with a plan and to help avoid a toy train set image just ask this simple question, 'Ify model were real and it rained where would the water go?' If you have a flat baseboard and you lay the track directly upon it, the answer to the question must be 'nowhere' and your model would immediately flood. Lifting the track from the base by just 10mm will take away the table top look, you can build scenery and ground level up to track level where appropriate but you can also allow the track to be on a shallow embankment and the realism will increase straight away... Regards Duncan
  9. Hi Marc, Could only extend around 25mm, remember that a road passes under the truncated 'mainline'. There would be a retaining wall from the track level to the road below at the end of siding B. I envisage occasional traffic to siding B perhaps a single OTA for forrestry, or an HEA or MCV for coal for the Welsh narrow gauge... overgrown yes sounds wonderful... The dedicated road access to the power station and flask transfer crane would be security fenced off from siding B. I want to create the feeling of the damp mountain air, and a remoteness... yes in N and in this small space. Cheers Duncan
  10. Oh Marc you ask such difficult questions! It will definitely be set in Wales! Ok I'll talk about couplings. At first I thought standard Rapido style... as I considered using stock from Shirebrook and that is all standard N, but if you follow my Flickr link https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/ you'll see that most locos have a detailed end.....(no coupling) But then I thought that the layout requires such a limited amount of stock and if I have fine scale track that I would go for (is it DG) they give delayed action and stock can be propelled and then 'dropped off' and I hope that I can still add some brake pipe detail and the couplings themselves are quite unobtrusive. However on a replacement layout for Shirebrook (a large one) I would continue to use my current system. With around 300 pieces of rolling stock (I guess- not actually counted) it would just be mind blowing to try and replace the lot.... life's too short. Cheers Duncan
  11. Hi Marc, Thanks for your input. Shirebrook is sort of finished, 3 projects remain, all involve me doing the artwork for etches, they are ; Safety fencing for the viaduct, Radio mast and Water Tower.... Hobb's Bridge will partly act as a test bed for a future layout, and I really would like to improve the appearance of the track, point control will by servo motor, and I could go back to Shirebrook with lessons learned to get the signals operating. I have always supported and promoted N scale modelling and always railed against those that say you can squeeze the OO equivilent into 1/4 the space, you just get a train set then, but I believe that if you expand the N layout to fill the same space as the OO model, or model a real location to scale such as Shirebrook or Dallam sidings you can end up with a beautiful model. Shirebrook is rather large 22.5ft x 7.5ft so do go the the other end of the scale (29 inch by 10 inch) will be a challenge in it self. Watch this space..... Cheers Duncan
  12. Hi Simon, I have had problems with my Cawoods containers too! I will try this modification, and will check on the OTA's also. Now this is how RMweb is supposed to work, the exchange of info and ideas! Excellent, thanks Simon
  13. Hi NGauge Tom, What make are the buffers stops or are they scratch built? The trackwork is Finetrax -certainly looks good how are you operating the turnouts? Cheers Duncan
  14. Thanks Marc, I fully intend to make this little layout. It will be light relief after Shirebrook. I'm still considering which track type to use, I am tempted to use a mixture of finetrax for plain rails and hand build the pointwork. I have ordered a peco servo controller for point operation. The down side is that building time will be longer. Perhaps Phil Parker will build the peco code 55 version! See the link to Phil's thread. Duncan
  15. Hi Simon, The OTA's are by Slimlines. They are very nice model. Extreme care required when handling during assembly and painting -the stanchions are very easily broken off. They will only go round gentle curves I can't get them all the way around Shirebrook yet, I need to order some long 3D printed couplers and replace the ones fitted currently, but this then throws up the added difficulty of trying to avoid breaking the stanchions! It's one of those jobs that get put on the back burner. Another shot of the OTAs for you below. The strapping is vinyl tape cut down to an appropriate width. Cheers Duncan
×
×
  • Create New...