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    Narrow gauge, Radio Control, Pre 20's and mid 60s road vehicles, Edwardian, The unusual

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  1. Brilliant Giles, I have been trying to work out how do do exactly this, but with V skip wagons. You are way ahead of me. That motion is perfect.
  2. Then you should visit us on the 'Radio Control' topic and we can show you how. You are right, it really adds another dimension.iframe widget
  3. Very nice. I have often thought that a combination of faller and radio control ought to allow larger numbers of vehicles, whilst maintaining the interesting bit. It also occured to me that a hybrid system using a Deltang receiver with the buffer stop function enabled could help to control the abrupt acceleration. Potentially you could use an extra servo channel to swap between servo and wire controlled steering to allow it to break free.
  4. Thank you for the thoughts, I shall have to look into the options at some point soon. I completely agree, I have an aspiration for a free standing yard crane. Although the temptation to knock up a building with an I girder crane out the door is very strong. In the mean time I took delivery of some large 6ft X 3ft crates to put in the back.
  5. it seems that what's needed is less a thread, which is a good source of transient info. But rather a list of the information collated from the thread, so that it can be referenced easily. A bit like the Henk of Holland website for 1:76-1:72 military models. Which is quite a useful resource, although it's hard to track down what you want amoungst the huge range of information, of which most is very military focused for obvious reasons. https://henk.fox3000.com/index2.htm On a different matter, KWtrams appear to have the ABS (plus a few others) range on their website, and all stated as in stock.
  6. A slight correction, the correct spelling is Roden, They also have a FWD truck with a choice of load beds. Which although American built were refurbished in reasonable quantities and sold ex WD after the war. Another similar company is RPM models. They do a Model T ambulance and a a less useful model T machine gun car, which provides a good chassis for kit bashing, but the body is of little use. Although it claims to be 1:72. The wheelbase is exactly right for 1:76. They also do a Mack AC truck with various body styles, although I think they were less common as civilian vehicles. Note, they don't have a website, but if you search "rpm plastic kits" you will find plenty of distributors.
  7. I also need to take up Giles' suggestion of upgrading my transmitter to something with more sensitivity and adjustment, whilst I dislike the idea of the transmitter being 4 times the size of the vehicle. I have to accept that my home made single stick units do not have sufficient sensitivity to get the best out of these vehicle.
  8. You are quite right, far too harsh a stop. Mainly due to the ham fisted, out of practise skills of the driver. Although it is capable of quite slow speed driving, the throttle is very sensitive. This has improved a bit since I took the video as a result of applying the Giles Favell trick of adjusting the PWM (although the RX47 doesn't get as low as 60Hz). Plus applying the "max speed" function to spread the available speed range across a wider percentage of the stick travel. Incidentally. I measured it last night at the top speed is a scale 12mph. The prototype would have been capable of about twice that. I think the rules on top speed were increased about the mid 20s. (But haven't double checked.) Assuming you were on rubber tyres and within certain axle load limits. You are also right, the brakes on the prototype were rear wheel only. The big drums are represented quite well in the kit.
  9. Finished at last, give or take some number plates and some plastidip on the front wheels to increase their grip for steering. I am not perfectly happy with the smoothness of operation of the tilt and tailgate, but they will do. I have enabled the servo slow function on the tailgate to make the operation less of a crash, and used the max speed function of the RX47 to limit the speed of the tilt, which only has an on-off-on rocker switch to control it. Since I have the decals from the kit, I have been able to finish this one and give it a little light weathering. On any layout I have planned from my armchair, this vehicle would be no more than a year or two old, (and that's the late era concepts). So I have assumed it is new, well looked after and therefore just some light road grime from the day deliveries, plus a bit in those hard to reach areas line the roof.
  10. There is a German company called Benedini that make sound modules for RC. They use the signal from the speed channel to control the engine noise and have options to add extra sounds including startup and horns. 3 problems, 1) they are targeted at military RC, so there are no railway sound files. But there is a very sophisticated software for the PC so you can make your own. 2) cost, 119euros! 3) size. The smallest unit is the TBS mini. Which is quite chunky for a OO loco. They used to do a TBS micro but discontinued it after it got cloned and ripped off by Chinese copies. Search for TBS micro. Same applies to making your own sound files. Caveat. I have not used either of these products. I have no direct experience, this is just the output of my research for a future project.
  11. Beautiful locos Giles. Looking forward to seeing this layout operational.
  12. Lovely work. Some nice brass engineering going on there.
  13. There is a discussion in the "road vehicles" thread on flashing lights which could do with your input on these rotating beacons.
  14. I used these switches in my radio control vehicles. Search 'micro slide switch' on your online auction site of choice. There is a wide range. Just be careful when glueing them in. It's quite easy to glue them solid, especially if you use low viscosity super glue. I've also used SMD LEDs, after carefully soldering wires onto tiny pieces of LED dust for many vehicles, I then started buying pre wired versions (same online auction site) it's just not worth the hassle. The wires are super thin and you can then just glue them where you need. Make sure you buy the right colour white for your era. You need warm white unless you are modelling modern image. I always add high value resistors, up to 10k Ohm, to adjust the intensity of light to a more realistic level. Finally, have you seen the rotating beacons that are available? I've never tried them, but they look so much better for the old style rotating mirror type lights.
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