Jump to content

doilum

Members
  • Content Count

    1,597
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

896 Good

4 Followers

Recent Profile Visitors

659 profile views
  1. Just asking the question. Were the tiny anthracite sizes ever delivered loose or were they always bagged at source. My brother had a solid fuel central heating system that ran on a couple of scoops of beans each day. It's satanic heat eat grates for fun.
  2. Assuming the brass comes in the usual 10x 4" sheet first step is a simple long cut that will give the necessary height for the sides (just). The full height is achieved by soldering the top valance to the outside. The GN style tender sides are curved at both ends. The 10" length allows you to start at the front end with a generous 10mm overhang ( trimmed off when all is complete). This can be tried in position to confirm the rear bending point leaving the surplus for the time being. Once both sides are ready the rear section can be trimmed to the best joint possible in the middle. This can be
  3. St Frusquin used very small dress making pins with each head slightly filed down. The pins were pushed in using a soldering iron. I would give myself a B minus for the final outcome and doing it again might look for those American decorative rivets. This is not going to stop the job and there is a good case for adding them after you have located the period correct dome and chimney.
  4. Or hammer a 2,3,4" nail into a lump of scrap wood. You now have a set of formers to bend round. The trickiest in any scale are the ex NE locos that have a one piece handrail from cab, round over the smokebox and back to the cab. Order in several extra long lengths from Eileen's and accept that you will need several attempts. The failures are then salvaged and added to stock.
  5. Can strongly recommend the Roundhouse kits. I sold a few locos to fund a Katie in order to get a tick on the bucket list. It was a very straightforward and educational build, the hardest part being finding the factory using the postcode. Being a resident of God's own county I wasn't paying postage. Seriously, the factory visit was most worthwhile and is recommended. The simplified Walschearts is the way to go as it allows radio control of the reversing gear. Be warned, these are hot, heavy and very powerful so not to be used on loose set track on the dining room floor. We ended up buildin
  6. St Frusquin used a similar JH set up on the middle axle with the motor behind the gearbox. The motor is anchored to the plate above the rear axle using a plastic cable tie via a pair of strategically drilled holes.
  7. So you accept that you cannot have two pieces of 24" out of 48" and plan accordingly. The wood butcher's method is to cut one master piece and use this to measure out subsequent clones. When hand sawing we were taught to cut slightly to the outside of the pencil line and then sand back until the line disappeared*. If your hand saw isn't a joy to use, bin it. Most DIY stores have saws for £10 or less. They will not last for ever, but at this price they don't have to. If you intend building many boards a chop saw is a good investment, better still is a radial arm saw but it may be difficult to j
  8. Because the Finney 7 example will work out north of £250 ? It will need the special Slater's axles and wheels to complete. The conversion for St Frusquin left all the tender body parts untouched in case I messed up or got the opportunity to build another A4.
  9. Sorry shouldn't have used an abbreviation. Bought mine about 25 years ago from London Road Models when I was faced by a triple etch overlay on each individual window on a rake of four Thompson suburban coaches. When I finally killed it a couple of years ago they took it back and rebuilt it for a fraction of the price of a new one. It doesn't do everything and I still need a conventional iron to tin one of the surfaces but I wouldn't be without it. That said I sometimes attempt a full job with the ordinary iron for the fun of it.
  10. At the risk of reigniting a settled thread, I could make a strong case for a cheap iron and investing in an RSU.
  11. Looking much better if still a tad on the generous side. With foot steps try soldering from the under side. This will make cleaning up much easier. The good thing about this kit is that if you really mess up spares are easily found from eBay.
  12. Can't remember the brand but I currently use a Chinese item that cost around £15 from the bay of E. It has a stablemate as I had an accident with the flex and needed a soldering iron to repair it. This one cost around £20 as part of a comprehensive soldering kit. At this price they are almost disposable but I have a sneaky suspicion that they may outlast some much more expensive examples I have owned.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.