MikuMatt81

I too have noticed that Hornby use their Set track in all their marketing stuff, and I actually think the Peco set track looks quite a bit better than Hornbys, especially when carefully weathered down. Thanks for the link, really interesting to see!

Well look, I emailed Peco and they let me have the attached image (from a brochure I belive), not exactly a template per say, but they must think it OK for the intended purpose as I told them what I wanted to do. It'll be tricky printing it out to the right size though, I am told the straight section is 168mm long so thats something to go on. My next question for the community is, assuming copper clad sleepers throughout, and an un-powered frog like on the original ST point, where exactly will I need to make incisions throughout the point to avoid shorting? Also I assume the tie bar will the tie bar need a spring of some kind? thanks!

Hi Stu, Wow thats pretty much what I had in mind! May I ask where you downloaded the Peco template please? Also what is the process with regards to isolation on these? I just need mine to function like an insulfrog (as all my locos have Stay-alives fitted), but look similar to the Peco Bullhead Unifrog design.. im guessing its about cutting in specific places?

Hello there, I hear what you're saying about it potentially looking odd, I can definately understand where you coming from, but I think it would be a fun exercise to try out if nothing else. 😄

Hi Richard, I would very much like to go ahead and try it out, there are two things i need to clarify in my head first. 1. I would obviously need a template to work from, could this be put together in something like Templot (which I obviously have no experience of yet) ? or perhaps I could simply base the build off a template of the Peco set track point? (im not sure if Peco might have one handy?). 2. I would need to know what parts to buy, perhaps there is a suitible kit I could butcher? regards,

Hi everyone, So im two years into building my first layout, and in many ways im still new to the hobby so please forgive me if I ask a "stupid" question here... 😀 When I started my journey I didnt know the difference between code 100 and code 75, insulfrog and electrofrog, or much of anything really. Two years on and I feel ive learnt a lot, and I have taken a particular interest in modelling scenics, especially trees, foliage, flora, static grass etc, and I am really proud of what I have acehived so far. Now I have packed a LOT on a small 8 x 4 layout (because its all the space I have in the world), and as a result, track wise I am stuck within the geometry of Peco's set track, which is OK and its served me well, allowing me to focus on modelling my diorama's which is where most of the fun is for me. I mostly use my layout for taking snaps, and I feel the cod 100 insulfrog points whilst OK, obviously are'nt ideal for photography, especially given how finely ive modelled many of the other scenic elements around them. In an ideal world, I would like to slowly replace the main track with Peco or C&L Code 75 (OO gauge) bullhead track, but I know given the tight constraints of my layout, Im stuck within the geomtry of those 1st radius insultfrog points. Now Im sure this idea I have in my head is pie in the sky, but would it be at all feasable to hand build a sort of "faux bullhead" style code 75 point using say parts from a C&L kit? obviously it wont be prototypical geometry, but it really doesnt have to be... I just want something that looks a bit finer with the correct sleeper spacing, and nothing more. So is there any hope here for something better? or have I finally lost the plot? 😂

Hi Dave, Thanks for the tips, I will have a go at setting all these in the morning, and let everyone know how I got on 😁 Also thankyou to each and everyone of you who replied, everyone’s been so helpful it is much appreciated.

Hi everyone, So I’ve been using my trusty old Hornby Select for the last couple of years, and today I “upgraded “ to my new NCE powercab starter set. Now with the Hornby Select, as soon as I powered on at the wall, all four of my loco’s sat on the track would spring to life and the sound would automatically initiate - great. To my surprise when I turned on the PowerCab for the first time, sound did not automatically come on for any of my locos. I thought well that’s ok, I will turn the sound on my first loco using the function 1 key, but as soon as I select another loco, the sound on the first loco cuts out!! Then If I set the sound to on for the second Loco, that too cuts out as soon as I go back to the first etc What gives here please? Why is the sound not persisting between loco selection? Please don’t tell me this is a limitation of the NCE unit? Because for all it’s faults the budget Hornby controller even manages to retain sound settings after you turn it off. any help much appreciated!

That is very interesting also, because in the two years my layout has been in the summer house, I too have had an issue with the sleepers going bad. I think being in a summer house / shed its akin to an outside layout, because although fully protected from the rain, the moisture in the atmosphere makes things damp overnight. and of course when its hot everything bakes.

That is very interesting, I have a sneaking suspicion the damp atmospehre is a big factor in creating a natural weathering effect..... oh and LOL at the Hp sauce! XD

Hi Johnster, My layout is at the end of the garden, in the summer house (a glorified shed then!), so no grease or aerosol in the air that I know off. Because of this location, it is cold and damp in the winter time, and hot and dry in the summer time.... this rightly or wrongly led me to belive it might be a kind of oxidation that was going on with what I assume is nickel silver track. I should note that Ive spent so much time doing modelling over the last couple of years, that I very rarely get to actually run my locos for more than 5-10 mins a month, so its not like the track has had any heavy usage to date. I certianly think the crud theory holds weight, but im still not entirely convinced due to the lack of running sessions taking place.

Hi, thanks for your reply. Do you think any residue scenic cement plays a role in attracting the grime?

Hi Everyone, Please see the attached photos, the track on far left approx 2 years old, and the shiny track on the right a couple of months. The old track has *never* been painted, simply ballasted and left. And yet it has a pleasing and dare I say natural non-reflective look to the sides of the rails. When I went to paint a new section of track, I found I didnt personally like it anywhere near as much as the naturally aged track shown in the photos, which also pleasingly looks lower in profile when viewed in persion. So my question for the experts is, what exactly causes this phenomina? Is it natural oxidisation of some kind? or is it to do with residue scenic glue collecting dust etc from the atmosphere? or perhaps something totally different? I would love to know as id like my shiny new pieces of track to have the same look. I look forward to hearing your thoughts :)

Thankyou very much to everyone who replied - I really did learn something from you all! The general consensus is that the sleepers/timbers are indeed thicker on real life points, which makes sense. So my follow up question is then, what is the difference construction wise between regular sleepers, and "timbers" on the points? Are plain track sleepers not made of timber also??

Hi everyone, I purchased a yard of Peco sl-108f bullhead track, and an Peco sl-u1196 left hand turnout from Hattons ahead of a new project planned for next year. This is my first time ever handling anything from Peco's bullhead range, Im still relatively new to the hobby so please forgive my ignorance, but is it me or is there a mis-match on the sleeper width between the two products? The first thing I noticed on taking the items out the box was that the sleepers on the yard of track looks noticeably skinnier than the chunkier sleepers on the turnout? I cant have been the only one to notice this surley, or does the real thing have different sized sleepers on the points as well? Please note I am not talking about sleeper spacing, rather the width of the actual sleepers themselves! Thanks so much for your input, maybe I am being too cricitcal here....