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  1. For general purpose heavy freights 2-8-0 locomotives were quite common. For example, assuming this is N scale: LMS: Stanier 8F 2-8-0 - Farish have a model due shortly GWR: Churchward 28XX class or Collett 38XX class, 2-8-0 (Dapol) Other: WD 2-8-0 built during WWII and used widely afterwards (Farish have a model) There were slightly smaller mixed traffic locomotives, used equally for passenger and freight: LMS: Stanier Class 5 4-6-0 GWR: 43XX 2-6-0 GWR: Grange 4-6-0 This wasn't just perishables, it could be used for most things and was intended to replace the 43XX There are others, but I'm not sure what is currently available in N. Nigel
  2. NCB

    Foxbury mkII

    Bob, how did you form the very smooth corners to the backscene? cheers, Nigel
  3. On to the brakes! Eack brake consists ot two similar items each of a hanger and pad. One, the rear, is of full thickness metal and just has the outline; the other, the front, has half etched detail: One the right, the front is at the top, the rear at the bottom; they need to be soldered together. Each has 3 0.6mm diameter holes, one each end for the brake support rods, and one in the middle for the bolt which holds them together. The rear one has had the surface tinned in the middle. They are assembled as seen on the left. Short bits of 0.6mm nickel silver rod pass through them and into holes drilled in the wood. Heat and a bit more solder is applied to the middle, soldering the lot together, but avoiding soldering the end rods in place. The whole assembly can be lifted off the end rods, and more solder applied round the edges. If the end holes have received some solder in this process, they are easily drilled out again. After cleaning up this is the final result: To mount them on the body, 0.6mm nickel silver rods are for hanging the brakes and also locating the end of the brake pull rods are passed through holes in the chassis and soldered. Nigel
  4. Sharp Stewarts of this era seem to have had fairly low-slung cylinders, enough to be clearly visible below the buffer beams, so I'd included provision for these on the etch: Here's the cylinder front and rear, together with half-etched circular pieces with bolt detail. The latter doesn't show up too well, and maybe I should have made the bolt-heads heavier, if over-scale. The circular bits had been tinned on the back before removing from the main etch. To fix each one, I just sloshed some flux onto the circles on the main bits, held the circular bits in place with an old screwdriver, then applied heat: The inside of the chassis has half-etched guide lines (see previous chassis pic) where they go, and it was fairly easy to solder these in place, although I did have to file down the top of the front circles a bit where they came into contact with the coupling platform: The cylinder bits are in place at the front of the chassis (right hand end). Note also that the rear of the cylinder has a hole, there is a corresponding hole in the middle chassis former, and a piece of 1mm nickel silver rod has been fed through both and soldered. This is a pivot bar so that the front axle, which runs in slots in the chassis sides, can waggle up and down. Finally, there is a half-etched cover for the bottom of the cylinders. This is slightly oversize and needs to be filed down a bit to fit. Here it is in place: It has a hole in it to allow access to the body-fixing bolt. There isn't really that much room for the front coupling, although I think it'll be OK, and there's not much I can do about it if I include the cylinders. Or rather, I've just thought of a method, providing a slot for the rear of the B&B coupling to slide inside the cylinder, but it's too late to do that now! Nigel
  5. I think you're ignoring the areas where the GWR under Collett did make improvements, namely the quality of the detailed engineering work being undertaken at Swindon. Witness the re-engineered Dean Goods locos emerging from Swindon, compared to the earlier versions (hence the well-known example of the Dean in mid Wales outperforming the Class 2 sent as a "replacement"). Such fine tuning was liable to be more effective than fiddling with wheel arrangement. The Castles weren't so much an enlargement of the Stars as a (very successful) refinement. As for "what we have is good enough", it isn't born out by history. Felix Pole was taken with keeping the GWR in the headlines re locomotive performance, hence the Castles and Kings. Milne on the other hand was concerned with keeping the business as a whole running, in particular during the 1930s recovery when traffic was threatening to swamp capacity. General locomotive performance mattered, a lot, hence the program to replace Moguls by Granges and Manors, utilising 42XXs in general service, revamping the Large Prairie offerings, and so on.
  6. Having soldered the nuts in place, I removed the bolts, then folded down the end coupling platforms and soldered them. Then I added the pickup tray between the drivers. While it was easy enough to position this, I think in future I'd provide positive positioning tabs on the tray and corresponding cutouts on the sideframes, to make positioning even easier. Here's a pic: When I came to look at this again, a thought struck me, and I checked that the gear on the leading axle would fit. As I feared, it fouled the pick-up tray. Doh! I wasn't inclined to try to unsolder the tray, so took a cutting disc and file to the front of the tray and removed enough for the gear to fit: Nigel
  7. The next stage was simple enough; fold up the middle and end pieces so that they're vertical and solder in place, thus creating a rigid chassis. See: Some explanation of the screws/nuts is required! Each end piece has an additional fold which serves as a base for the couplings (B&B). The idea is to solder a nut behind the base, so that the couplings can be attached by screws. I usually do this by attaching the nut using a screw, screwed up tight so that (hopefully) any solder around the nut can't leak past the nut onto the screw thread and solder everything up. On this occasion I hit a problem. I was forced to use a new stock of 12BA cheesehead screws and found that with none of them did the thread continue right up to the head. Because of the thinness of the metal this means that things can't be screwed up tight. While I thought of a long-term solution to this, as a short term fix to solder the nuts in place I fed another nut onto the screw and passed it through the hole to receive the main nut; by tightening the nuts I could get things tight enough. The pic shows things set up ready for soldering. The thing on the right is a tray to hold the pickup assembly and gets soldered to the frames between the drivers. It also needs a 12BA nut attached. Re the problem. After much investigation and enquiring around, I've come to the conclusion that screws of the sort I want are no longer available. So for the immediate future I'll need to use washers. Longer term I may go metric. Nigel
  8. I've used Loctite All Plastics Superglue to glue brass overlays to coach sides. Works fine. Nigel
  9. The main piece of the chassis is a single fold-up etch: The sides are folded in at 90 degrees, after which the cross pieces in middle and both ends can also be folded in, and the seams soldered up to make a strong structure. The end pieces have an extra fold to form a platform fot the couplings (B&B). I'm a big fan of fold-up chasses; they are quick, very easy to do, and only need a bit of care to get everything square. Before folding anything, I ran a Stanley knife down the fold lines a couple of times to make folding easier. Here's the first stage: I have folding bars, but because of their thickness they're not good at doing multiple folds like this U shape. So what I did was stick a couple a 12" metal rulers in the fold bars and gripped the chassis using those, after which the folds were done easily. It needs a bit of checking to make sure the correct 90 degree angles are obtained. Nigel
  10. I prefer to fit the cab roof last of all, after all details have been completed, and after all painting thereof has been done. To assist in this, I've added a strip of 2mm nickel silver behind the cab front and rear, curved to match the roof contour, as below: The completed roof can then be simply glued to these surfaces. They also strengthen the cab structure; you can't make things too strong! The main thing remaining is the firebox/boiler/smokebox assembly. However, before that I want to get the chassis done, to test things like motor and gearbox fit. Nigel
  11. Final bit on the cab rear is to attach the overlays for the bunker, rear and sides: These were sweated on with no problems. However when viewing the above pic I realised that the overlay for the tank side hadn't properly attached to the tank frame, so sloshed some flux on it and pressed it with a hot iron, which cured the problem. Nigel
  12. Chris, if I can solder, anybody can solder! Now to the cab rear. As I mentioned, I decided to butcher the faulty etch. In fact, I managed to remove the excess metal without too much trouble, ending up with 4 bits; the cab rear, one bunker side with half of the bunker front, the other bunker side, and the other half of the bunker front. I filed off part of the cab rear tabs, until they fitted the slots in the footplate. And soldered them all up: A fair enough outcome. One thing I was pleased about. The cab side extensions were exactly the right length, so the cab rear was dead vertical. Misshapen cabs are all too easy to do, so this was a plus. Nigel
  13. Now for the cab front/sides: This folded up and fitted fine. So I got that one right Before dealing with the back, there are internal splashers to the cab to fit: The soldering isn't as messy as it looks. Honest! Nigel
  14. Next thing were the etched tank overlays, which also include the rather fancy and probably unnecessary extensions at the top (the GWR had no hesitation in chopping them off): They were positioned by getting the rear in line with the tank rear and working from there. At some point I'll have work out how to do the rounded corner of the extensions between side and front; in the past I've worked something up in Milliput and will probably do this again. Nigel
  15. The interesting part coming up; building the superstructure, starting with the tanks. For these I etched a couple of frames which fold up to provide a structure for the tank. They also provide the tank top and rear, with the side and front added later with an etched overlay. Here's the structures in place: Getting the distance between the tanks spot on is critical for being able to attach the cab correctly, so I soldered in first one frame, then used the cab front as a template to position the second frame properly before soldering that. The two frames weren't quite as easy to get the right shape as I expected, but I managed it; I'll take another look at that to see if it can be improved. Nigel
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