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  1. I quite like the smell of Plastic Weld. In fact I use it in preference to other stuff wherever I can for that reason However, I do use it in quite limited sessions and don't hang around in the same room afterwards. Nigel
  2. I've been building compensated locos in 3mm/ft scale for quite a long time. Early on I decided that the conventional approach of fitting hornblocks to the chasses for the moving axles was a waste of time, difficult to do accurately, and prone to problems; simple rectangular slots in the chasses were good enough. And so it proved. Others have found the same. Admittedly my models aren't subject to endless running round radius 2 type curves. But slots in a hefty cast chassis should be fine. Nigel
  3. Some years ago was on Caersws station; the dmu had broken down and we were waiting for a replacement to arrive from Machynlleth. Took a look at the main roof. Was surprised to see the tiles had been covered with felt. Presumably this was one way to solve roof problems. The driver of the replacement wasn't hanging about; the descent from Talerddig to Cemmaes Road is etched on my memory.
  4. Here's the underside of Aberdovey canopy: I think using planking then laying felt and/or tiles on top was fairly common. Aberdovey used tiles but there might be felt underneath. Nigel
  5. Useful pics. Wonder if the corrugated iron is a recent addition. The Cambrian become quite fond of the corrugated stuff, but I suspect when Newtown was built then either tarred felt or tiles would have been used. Interesting the similarity in style of the station building with Aberdovey. Newtown was built after the Cambrian Railways was formed; it's possible Aberdovey (then at Pwllheli) was as well. Nigel
  6. Well, you did ask. One end and the front: Nigel
  7. The station building on my 3mm layout Port Aeron was "inspired" by Aberdovey. But compressed, built in stone, no fancy stonework around the windows, and a canopy based on Dunster: In 1982 I took a number of pics of Aberdovey, just before the canopy was finally removed and it was converted into holiday accommodation. Here's a couple of general ones: Nigel
  8. Another who relies on an outdoor shed for airbrushing! My problem is that my shed blew down a couple of years ago (it can get quite windy 600' above the Rheidol valley)! Alternative arrangements are in planning but it could take quite a few months to put them in effect. Nigel
  9. Latest stage: No difference? Not really. But now everything is soldered in place. I had intended to add the smokebox handrail first, but after bending a boiler handrail decided it would be too vulnerable to my ham-fisted methods! The soldering went quite easily, first the prongs in the cab from the firebox, then the smokebox front base, then the firebox cab join, finally the boiler-smokebox join. Some cleaning up is needed. I now need to add the smokebox - cab pipe and the cab handrails, at which point all the soldering will be complete. However, I'll be leaving this for 2-3 weeks, as I have a laser-cut signal box kit I've promised to do the test build of.
  10. Thought the HD Castle green was pretty good, just like the Castles I used to see on the Swindon/Stroud/Gloucester line in the 1950s. Locos seen in the death throes of steam aren't a good guide to what went before. Nigel
  11. Battered but survived! Was only in one night, which surprised me; they normally look at me and think decrepit old git, maybe don't let him out too early! Started on the handrails. The holes in the knobs need clearing out and enlarging. I found this very fiddly and several knobs shot off into space, to the point I was in danger of running out. Finally I hit on sticking the knob in a pin vice, and putting that in turn in a bench vice, so that the knob was rock steady. I intended to use 0.4mm nickel silver rod for the handrails, so used a 0.45mm rod held in another pin vice to open up the hole. Similar problem feeding handrail rod through the knobs, until I hit on the idea of using the above technique for that. I cut some over-length rod and put a right angled bend in one end to stop the knobs sliding off, then fed the rod through the knob held in the pin vice, with the same again for the second knob. Another bend on the other end secured the knobs on the rod. I was hoping to use my fine-tipped soldering iron to solder the knobs into the boiler holes, but the heat in the boiler tube dispersed too rapidly, so I used my new medium-tipped iron. This did the job but with rather a lot of solder scattered around, which had to be cleaned off. Also, Antex irons now seem to come with the tips ready tinned; I don't know what they use, but it has a nasty smell and produces a black crud when in use. I used a U shaped bit of 0.7mm rod to act as a spacer between handrails and boiler when soldering. Finally, I trimmed the handrails to length and cleaned up the boiler. Here it is with another test assembly of it on the locomotive. Before fixing the boiler I need to add the smokebox front handrail, and also remove a bit from the underside of the boiler to make space for the motor and gearbox. Nigel
  12. A modern moderately high resolution digital camera with a slide scanning attachment and an appropriate lens is probably what I'd use these days. In the past I've used an Epson 3170 Photo scanner, which I still use for scanning prints, at which it is excellent. Wasn't so happy with slides, but that may be my slides. Drum scanning used to be at the high end of commercial scanning; suspect it still is. Maybe send a few off to a selected outlet and see how they turn out.
  13. Saw the reference to the time-lapsed video, but couldn't find the video itself. Nigel Edit: had a look at the page source and managed to extract the link to the video.
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