Jump to content

Coder Tim

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

159 profile views
  1. Would a scaled-down table tennis table mechanism solve the balance issue? The two leaves are supported near the middle by legs that are on casters and move towards the centre as the table folds down. Edit: I completely mis-remembered how that mechanism works, the legs under the pivots don't move, the outer legs do. The pivot legs are on a fixed frame and create a gap between the two leaves when folded up. Still might be worth considering.
  2. That is a lovely model, thanks for sharing. I've built kits in 7mm and am going to try scratch building at some point as well so I'm not too worried about stock, this is going to be a steady long-term project.
  3. Thanks for the info, checkrails are a good idea. I'm going to aim for 48" and see what happens
  4. Brilliant, thanks both. That's actually better than I expected. I've wondered about deeper flanges before but much prefer the scale ones. I think for this first layout I'll go with the ssmrs standard and see if I have any trouble making track well enough for reliable running. Thanks again!
  5. Hi all, I wasn't sure whether to ask this here or start a new thread, but this seemed like the best option. What sort of radii are typical in S? I'm considering the scale for a shelf layout where it isn't too much of an issue but eventually want to have balloon loops at which point it would become important. I've tried searching for information myself but all I've been able to find is figures from the US which seem implausibly tight. In terms of what I'll be running, Jubilee 4-6-0s would be the largest regulars but the occasional big Pacific on a funny train would b
  6. Would having the fiddle yard nearby help to alleviate the problems caused by the shorter quayside line? The only unavoidable problem I can see is that train lengths would be limited by the length of the longest platform, but we tend to run shorter trains that the real thing anyway. That being said I'm not an expert on how Fort William was operated so there might have been some moves that relied on the longer line? I've been thinking about the similarities between Fort William and Minories myself lately, although coming at it from a slightly different angle. Starting with Fort Wi
  7. I use the jig and I've found a couple of things help. The first is to only put two bases in it so that there isn't too much resistance. The second is to take the bases out of the jig as soon as the rail passes through the last chair and then move them the rest of the distance along the rail by pulling the rail rather than pushing. This prevents the rail from buckling. Finally, once the full length of rail is assembled I put it loosely back into the jig at various positions to straighten any slight bends and even out the sleeper spacing.
  8. That's great, thanks! Sadly I don't know anyone with a lathe but your method sounds like it will do the trick so I'll give it a go. I've built a couple of turnouts before so not worried about that part, just couldn't figure out a reliable method for making the gauges. Thanks again
  9. Sorry for the late reply, I sometimes make a mental note to do something and think that I've already done it! Thanks a lot for the further info Compound2632, the signalling in particular was helpful as it's an area I know very little about. I agree about the combination of watching trains go by and shunting, there'll definitely be at least one Jubilee (Bahamas was in regular service on the KWVR when I was a kid), I'm also planning on having some form of Mid-day Scott as I love main line expresses and I'll justify it as a small station on a big route (plus rule 1). As to freight I have a
  10. Excellent thread, loving both the trackwork and the buildings. If it's not too much of a diversion: you mentioned way back in the earlier pages that you make your own gauges for n2. I understood the n2 standards diagram you posted a couple of times but I have no idea how to go about making gauges, would you mind briefly describing your process for that? I'd really like to give n2 a try but can't without knowing how to make gauges for it first and google wasn't particularly helpful (I suppose it is a fairly obscure subject).
  11. Thanks, I'm glad it's looking suitably Midlandish. I've shortened the second dock siding as suggested, would it make sense for this to have a dual use as a secondary access for the cattle pens (probably sheep in Airedale) and as an end loading siding with a ramp up to it? Or would it be more likely to be end loading with no ramp so that carts etc could be backed up to it and be at the same level as the wagons? I'm happy to have parcels / milk be handled at the platforms, I just had them at the dock sidings because I didn't know where else to put them, does handling them at the platforms mea
  12. Been playing with putting the station on the straight and the yard on a very exaggerated curve, I think it works better. The curve through the goods section is 4 foot radius so it shouldn't look too bad. Thoughts or opinions? Do people agree it's an improvement over the previous attempt? Also managed to get hold of some copper clad strip and gauges to experiment with building some points
  13. Turned out to be more complicated than I thought. The slide bar isn't cosmetic, it just looked that way because the crosshead had slipped off both top and bottom slide bars and fallen behind them. The right angle joint between the union link and the combination lever had also managed to invert itself somehow. Anyway with all that straightened out it runs again. Wobbles from side to side a tiny bit and there's a slight rubbing sound when the crosshead reaches the bent part but I think that's inevitable, the main thing is that it runs forwards and backwards at it's slowest setting without an
  14. I'd assumed that pliers wouldn't be able to get in since they are bigger than the tweezers, but thought I'd give it a go since you suggested it. Turns out it was exactly what was needed! The bar is still kinked but since it seems to be cosmetic (the crosshead is attached to the upper slide bar but not the lower one) it should be ok now I've got it out of the way of the coupling rods. Need to try running it tomorrow but I'm feeling hopeful. Thanks for the idea! Tim
  15. Hi, First, sorry if this is in the wrong forum, I wasn't quite sure where it should go. I recently lent my Farish 3mt to a friend and it has become damaged. Specifically the lower slide bar on one side has bent inwards so that it is jamming the outside motion. I've tried fixing it with some tweezers but can't access it well enough to grip it properly. I can think of two potential solutions: 1) Snip the slidebar with some clippers/track sheers. This would definitely work but would permanently damage the loco 2) Disassemble the motion as per the instructions to get better access
  • Create New...