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  1. Thanks, it makes it easier when you see it being done. I had another go, I took a vid but at 500Mb just a tad too big, so I took a screen shots to the best quality but the idea is there. I also asked the supplier of the resin and they recomended using industrial talcum power to line the mould to help with reducing an static electricity and realeasing any air bubbles, however I'm thinking its the chemical reaction between parts A and B that creates the air bubbles. I tried being gentle on the mixing but I'm not sure. When casting the mould how do you stick t
  2. Thanks that's pretty informative, the plastic sheet is that about 1 to 2mm thick can it be anything.
  3. That makes more sense, it seems you need to have a method to do this, from making the mold to pouring the resin. In regard to the resign, what type are you using? I'm using a product called Procast, it only has a pot life of 5min, the guy at the shop also said to try Easycast pot life 2min. I think this is too fast, I could not even put it in a vacuum chamber (if I had one) to get the air bubbles out. Is there a method to mixing so as not to introduce air bubbles. I might butcher my mold to be able to pour the resign in rather than plunging the top part of
  4. One thing I do not seem to get is, we are told to put the model on an angle to reduce the surface area being printed to avoid suction issues, yet the model sits on one big flat raft with a bigger area than that of the model. How much of an issue is it really?
  5. By the sounds of it you have the supports within the wagon, I have been printed open wagons so that the supports are on the under side that way you don't have to worry too much about pitting since it's underneath. I have also found that if I print at 30deg all the supports are on the underside and nothing on the sides or ends that way they are all clean. Post a pic of the supported wagon will make it easy to provide a comment.
  6. Agreed, this was something I thought I could add to the tool bag, to increase production. I too have a graveyard of almost there but no cigar prints, was thinking about using them as a train wreck I have also learnt that everyone has something to contribute, it's whether you choose to take that on board or how you take that is another thing I shall crack on, maybe with both methods running parrallel.
  7. I have gotten better results with 3D printing, however at 9 plus hours per print, I thought casting would yield quicker models, plus I want a lot of wagons and didn't want to hammer the printer. So same mould, slow pour and let the plug slide in with a little pressure, a better result but still lots of air bubbles. However when I first pour the resin in I do not see any air bubbles so I'm not sure what's going on there. The sides feel rough even though the mould doesn't. The photo of the end has two bubbles that seem to be in a very odd spot. I would expect to see air bubbles
  8. Hi Trial 2, I decided to go for a piece hoping that the buffers won't break on the way out, after de-moulding the buffers didn't come out. I think it's an air bubble issue, I'm also a bit gutted that there was a big air bubble just near where the bogie is attached. I was thinking I could fix that by using either wax or plasticine. I'm suprised that the air tank came out, thought that was going to fail for sure. I didn't bother to clean the model up as it wasn't very good Fastening the model down I used a piece of exposed x-ray film and glued the the model down
  9. This is what I was thinking, if I split the ends off then it's just a matter of gluing them back on. No doubt there will be a mtach line but a bit of filling, sanding and paint should cover it up. My only concern is the coupler box, maybe it would be better to keep that as one piece, even though it is an overhang (not sure if that's the right word).
  10. Thanks for that, I hadn't come across that method. I guess that each method would have it's own benefits. I'm not sure about splitting the body and the chassis because of the buffers, maybe I can split the ends of the wagon as well so there would be 4 pieces. Could I create one open mould rather than four separate ones?
  11. Hi Well it's taken it's time but I have done my first casting, needless to say it will be a labour of love before I get it right. Apart from air bubbles, need to make a vacuum chamber (new topic I assume). So here are few pics sorry about the focus hence the 3D versions. I'm using pinkysil to create the moulds and procast for the resin. Issue number one - I do not have a bottom or a top of the mould, as I have the half at the buffers so they would not break off when taking it out of the mould. Which means I can't get enought resin in before it starts to overflow and
  12. Hi I'm going to embank on a stick build project and my search for plastic I Beams and Universal Columns have have yielded and few products from Evergreen, Kit Kraft and Plastruct. However this seems like an expensive way to go. Has anyone made their own structural members, I also thought about 3D printing a few and casting the rest. Or is this a lost cause and I should just save up and buy the "off the shelf" ones instead. Cheers
  13. So what country or time zone are you in? Cardiff - should have looked at the video first.
  14. Thanks for those suggestions, I'll have another go at. However prior to reading these posts, I ended up doing the following making the handrails 0.2mm dia the stairs and landing 0.25mm thick made the C-sections just a solid member Here's the result on an Anycubic Photon, layers where 0.05mm, with default light supports. Removing the supports was the issue, cracked a few of the handrails at the supports (handling issues, too small for my fingers) but easily fixed using resin and a UV light. What I would do different, in my excitement I UV cured it
  15. Hi I want to print these stairs in N scale, the first attempt was a failure mainly due to using a true scale version and scaling down. The thickness of the model was too thin, especially the handrails. I gather that modelling structural members at this scale will have to made bigger as the strength will not be there, it's just the appearance that I was after. I'm tempted to just to model the structural members as square sections to give it a bit more thickness. Is there a min thickness before it looks out of scale or in the end It just doesn't m
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