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Everything posted by regme

  1. Hi I'm going to embank on a stick build project and my search for plastic I Beams and Universal Columns have have yielded and few products from Evergreen, Kit Kraft and Plastruct. However this seems like an expensive way to go. Has anyone made their own structural members, I also thought about 3D printing a few and casting the rest. Or is this a lost cause and I should just save up and buy the "off the shelf" ones instead. Cheers
  2. So what country or time zone are you in? Cardiff - should have looked at the video first.
  3. Thanks for those suggestions, I'll have another go at. However prior to reading these posts, I ended up doing the following making the handrails 0.2mm dia the stairs and landing 0.25mm thick made the C-sections just a solid member Here's the result on an Anycubic Photon, layers where 0.05mm, with default light supports. Removing the supports was the issue, cracked a few of the handrails at the supports (handling issues, too small for my fingers) but easily fixed using resin and a UV light. What I would do different, in my excitement I UV cured it
  4. Hi I want to print these stairs in N scale, the first attempt was a failure mainly due to using a true scale version and scaling down. The thickness of the model was too thin, especially the handrails. I gather that modelling structural members at this scale will have to made bigger as the strength will not be there, it's just the appearance that I was after. I'm tempted to just to model the structural members as square sections to give it a bit more thickness. Is there a min thickness before it looks out of scale or in the end It just doesn't m
  5. A bit more work on the warehouse, from 3D modelling to cardboard. I think I'll 3D print the exhaust outlets, since I'm print the stairs, my effort a scratch building at this scale needs work (as well as HO). Are there any thought's on modelling corrugated sheeting in N scale, finding heaps on HO scale.
  6. Dowel Push Rods for Manual Point Control I didn't find much infomation but this is how I did it after I saw it on another layout and thought it would be good try, plus the kids like the idea. The wire is 1.25mm tie wire (photo #2), you would use it tie mesh fence to star pickets. Dowels are 6mm in dia. This is the basic idea, it doesn't matter what angle the point is relative to the edge of the base board, I wanted the rods to be perpendicular to the edge of the board, you could do it so that dowel is parallel to the tie bar if you like. I drill
  7. Well it's starting to take shape, I have used 6mm dowel rods and 1.25mm tie wire to change the points. The wiring is done, turned out one on the points was an electrofrog and kept shorting out until I put in some insulated joints, trap for young players, now for the buildings
  8. Thanks, well I ended up rotating 30deg and placing the supports on the bottom and it came out much better. Not sure what happened with those tiny holes, just might be somethin in the resin, a little bit of fine turning and should be ok.
  9. Thanks for that, I was going for an Australian feel, those links are interseting. I guess I was more focused on the timesaver layout and use it for shunting, I do have a HO version which I enjoy, but you do make some intersting points. So if I had a main line "running" through then that would give the potential for a train to arrive and depart. I could flip the silo, lose the road to the north to give more room for a main line, add a point where you could come of the main line and into the timesaver. Sure the rakes won't be long, but 'm putting together an iron ore l
  10. Yeah, I used that link to get this layout, some good ideas there. I was hoping to add a extra dimension to it. Well one has flagged anything majorly wrong with the layout.
  11. So it's N scale The base is 1800x400 The era is modern, the silo is for wheat It is going to be used as a variation of the timersaver at this stage, but if a space becomes available then it may be incorporated into a bigger layout. No space for a fiddle yard at this stage.
  12. Thanks, no worries, it was worth a shot
  13. I have managed to get the old motor working but it's sparking at the brushes. I have cleaned them and the armature, what would be the cause or is it just coming to the end? The next issue is getting it going, so the motor works fine apart from the sparking, but when it's all connected she does doesn't want to move. I have pulled apart the bogies to see if there is a problem, but I couldn't see any broken gears. When I turn the U-joint the gears turn freely, however when I turn the gears it doen't turn the spindle. I pulled the wheels off both bogies and connected the bogies to the mo
  14. Hi I have put this layout together and was just after some feed back, good or bad. It's going to be N scale, I was trying to put some sort of elevation into it but I wasn't getting anywhere with that. I have been looking at different freight yards but nothing has been standing out. It's not based on anything, however I think the areas I have do not fit together some how. Cheers
  15. Hi I want to make a casting of a 3D print, and I think I'm going to answer my question since this is the first casting I'm going to do but here goes anyway. I was going to place the model (top down) on a glass plate and surround the model with plasticine to the level of the buffers. Since these are the smallest part I'm worried they will break off, unless they are form by both parts of the mould. So where the white line would be the where the two haves of the mould would meet. I hope that makes sense. Is this the right way of looking at it.
  16. Thanks for this, yes the model is only rotated on one axis, I might try rotating on two axis. I might also rotate it so the supports are on the underside of the wagon. A bit reading also. Cheers
  17. Hi Here is a screen shot, I'll have a search this optimum angle/ I'm print with 0.05mm layers and the model starts at 7.5mm above the build plate. Cheers
  18. Hi I print this model using the Anycubic Photon, basically it was printed vertically with a 10degree slope. The problem is the detail on the ends. Where the supports are placed its dull (top pic- it's also been sanded abit) while the other end (bootom pic) is good, excuse the focus. I tried placing heavy supports on the bottom edges of the raised parts and used light supports for the lower areas to reduce pitting when I tried to remove the supports. I'm thinking about printing the model vertically, that way I don't have to place the supports right on the e
  19. Hi I bought this12v can motor, and when it starts up there is some knocking put as I feed the power up to 12v it disappears, before I right it off it there anything I can do about the knocking. Is just just because it's new it needs to be run in and for how long? Cheers
  20. Hi I'm using Mr Hobby Aqueous thinning with their thinner and Tamiya Airbrush cleaner. My question since the Mr Hobby Aqueous is a water based acrylic is there any reason not to just use water to thin and clean? Cheers
  21. Thanks for that, I'll see if I can hunt down the wheels first, because knowning me I'll break them when I try to remove them. CD motor option sounds interesting, will look into that. Cheers
  22. Hi I have this motor and would like to have a go at cleaning it up, it seems I have to pulll the wheels apart to pull the motor apart. I was going to use a gear puller, however I'm not sure which wheel comes off, If anyone can enlighten me that would great. Cheers
  23. Went the local hobby store to see if they had motors that would suit with no luck, so I asked about pulling the motor apart and was basically told no because it would break the magnetic field. So as stupid as this sounds considering they had to put the motor together, was he for real or just taking the piss? Also for lubricating plastic gears can you use Inox?
  24. Hi I'm trying to find last gears that connect the wheels to the motor for this motor, can anyone recommend a replacement instead. The motor works fine, seems a shame to scrape it. Cheers
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