regme

Hi Well the bogie was finally printed using a Anycubic Photon, the bogie came out ok, but with a few missing bits, in the first photo where the coupler is going part of the wall is missing (tried to draw on where the wall should be). In the second photo, on the sideframe there should be a full circle (like in the third photo) not half, but this happen on one side not the other. When I checked the STL file, it's all there so I'm not sure what to change so I'm not missing anything for the next time. I didn't angle the print just flat and raised it 5mm above the bed with auto supports. Cheers

I have done something similar to what you are after, however there is soldering involved, sorry you can stop reading now. Anyway there are two options that I found that satisfied my limitations in understanding electronics and soldering ability. The first was there switches by this guy http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM they come in kits or pre-made. I went with the kits and had all sorts of greif especially with the soldering, the wires were too small. Theses have the CDU built in and can run your LED's The second involved a few more bits, but was easier to put together and understand what was going on, but there is a parts list. You will need CDU (easy to make yourself) https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_3.html#Bookmark8 This site is really good Memomentary (on)-off-(on) switch - to run the points DPDT Non-Latching Relay PCB Mount (HFD2/012-S-L2-D) - to run the LED's Power supply for LED Power supply for CDU Resistors for LED So basically when I throw the switch it throws the point and changes the LED. I have two bi-colour (reg/green) LED's per point (using Hornby points) to tell me which point is open and which is closed. I was going to post a photo, but it's not pretty.

I have basically done that also, designed it true scale, scaled it down then thicken the inside to 1mm to retain the detail on the outside. I've been using the Backmann ore car as a guide for the HO version. I have to admit there is a lot that goes into this and the worst part is, I know that first print is going to be out on so many levels.

Well the wagon has gotten to the stage that I can print it. Would it be better to print it in parts or as a completed model. If I print it complete (resin printer) is it better to orientate the model so the supports are attached from the underside of the wagon or from within the body of the wagon. The only other issue the height of the coupler, since I haven't designed the bogie, maybe I just buy one and see how it goes first? Cheers

Well finally printed my first print - a 20' sea container. Apart from the great information I found here, what did I learn Sometimes when creating the STL file not all the parts get exported need to make sure it's one solid model. Think about the orienation of the print model in relation to supports to reduce sanding faces of the model that might not have to be sanded. I had the model on a 30deg slope to reduces the flat area and maybe I didn't have to do that. Take it easy cutting the supports. Maybe using bracing to keep the sides square, I got a bit of bow. It's not perfect, and sure I'll know, but when placed with the others that will follow, good luck finding it. Overall pretty happy in the way it turned out.

Interesting concept

I have a ore wagon I want to do in HO, still figuring out whether to do it in one piece or break it up. I was looking at monocure resin to start off with, maybe a couple of litres but by the sounds of things best just to get a litre and see how it goes. I'll sus out that Elegoo Grey too. Cheers

Hi Just wondering when your printer arrived how much resin did you go through in excitement before reason kicked in. I'm look at the 250ml bottle that came with the printer and was going to order another litre, but then I thought of all the things I want print and the litre-age is going up, don't want to really buy on the excitement level. Cheers

Now I have to model a crane or find a HO scale mobile crane, riggers to hang off the steel work

I'm not sure what you mean

That could be the go also, could maybe use the connectors for the wiring to hold the roof in place.

Hi Harold Thanks, that makes sense, since the building only has a real opening in the front with a couple of doors on the side it may defeat the purpose of the detail inside. Once I get the frames in place I shall suck it see. Cheers

Hi I'm in the process of planning a maintenance shed for my loco's. It's a steel portal frame building with cladding on the outside. However the inside will have platforms, stairs, exhaust system in the roof, fire hose reels and fuel hoses, heaps more than the outside. I guess I could make the entrance wider so you can look inside, but I was half thinking to make the roof clear so you can see inside. Or depending on the orientation I could loose a side wall, granted you would have to look from over the top. Or have I just lost the plot and got carried away with it and just leave it as you would see it real life. Cheers

Thanks, I'll give this a go and see what happens

Hi I'm doing HO scale, and I have any anycubic photon. I have access to AutoCAD or Microstation so either format is fine dxf. I can send a PM if you prefer. Thanks

Hi Thanks, did not realise it can be done that way, will be looking into that

I thought about that, but then the paint is probably too thick for use in an airbrush, even if I thin it by 20%, I think any more than that the paint starts to loose it's properties. I should go in and find out.

Hi Looking at printing my own bogie and was just after some guidance. Having a look at the bogies I current have and online, my first question is, the new bogies have roller bearings, does that mean are the wheelsets set into a bearing? Or are they just set into the plastic. I guess you can model a cone shape for the wheel to sit in, then just use a truck tuner tool to get the right shape. Cheers

It's current, this is a photo of the model, the real one is too weathered to get the oringal colour

You both bring valid points, I guess what I needed was a starting point, whilst I did photograph both a model and the real wagon using a grey card rather than auto, my quite happy with the photo I have. I did come up with a colour that I matched online but that was a house paint colour, so the name does not relate to anything. I was tempted to buy it but I could not use it in an airbrush. I guess I could just to the hobby store with the photo and pick a colour, just thought there would be more science to it.

I have a photo of a wagon I would like to match, which is proving more difficult than first thought and this is a very loaded question. As complicated as colour matching is, is there a way to match the colour from the photo. At first I thought using the RBG values, but that's not the way. Using an on line service I managed to find a colour, however it's more suited for a wall than a model. Plus I could only thin it by 20% and it may still be too thick for a airbrush. I guess I could just use a brush. My searches have come up with a lot of theory, but nothing practical. What would be the approach? Cheers

JimFin you bring up some interesting points, I'll be the first to admit that my skills in modelling have a long way to go and anything that will make it easier as well as producing a realistic model is worth considering. From what I've read and seen on this forum there are many different ways and techniques that can be used to build models. I think in this instance 3D printing may be more applicable due the small detail and shapes I would like to achieve, that my limited modelling experience may not be able to with other techniques. That said, using styrene beams maybe easier and less expensive than a 3D printer for metal structures. However it doesn't mean you couldn't use both styrene and 3D printing to model a steel structure or wagon for that matter. From the previous posts, I will be looking at my modelling from different points of view. Regarding the wall thickness, if I put it into perspective a 5mm thick steel plate would equate to only 0.06mm thick in HO, now that's the same thickness as 80gsm paper, food for thought, maybe in a derailment the carnage would look authentic but then you would to build more wagons.

I only mentioned 20mm because I measured a HO ore wagon side and scaled it up, maybe the wagons you buy are not strictly prototype. As Andrew said scaling down in the same material should have roughly the same strength but changing the material type may have a bearing on this. I've since found out that the wagon sides are only 5mm thick (just looks small for a 40tonne car). May its be a matter of printing at the scaled thickness and seeing how it goes and change it where some added strength is required. I checked out that Manchester Central thread, very impressive. Went to my layout looked at my shed that I built, think I'll take it out the back and torch it I have much to learn

Thanks, that puts it into perspective.

Hi I'm currently modelling a re-fuelling building followed closely by an ore wagon, using structural steel components, which I'll modelling is true scale and scale it down to HO. When does the scale become too small to either print or be structurally sound. I must add I do not have a printer yet, this would influence the type of printer I should go for from a resolution point of view. So for example I need to use a 150UB member the flange thickness are 9.5 and 6mm, so at HO scale that's 0.11mm and 0.069mm. Say the thickness of the wagon side is 20mm thick plate, that makes it 0.23mm for HO. This seems a bit flimsy, or would you beef it up to say 1mm thick to give it some strength? Cheers