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  1. Hi Mikkel, Bill (Longchap) just directed me to this work of yours. I'm interested in Weston-super-Mare as it's my hometown I was delighted to learn about the former Stables and a quick search of Britain by Air turned up a great photo from 1920s showing the stables face on at the back of the Goods Precinct bordering onto Locking Rd. An archive link confirmed this was it's location. Here: https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/en/image/EPW001031 It sits directly opposite the end of George street running back from the Yards with label LB above it. 'Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland' https://maps.nls.uk/index.html
  2. Hi Darius, I had seen your comment but it didn't completely address my specific question viz. regarding the exit rails. However all is now clear thanks and BTW fine job you did with the assembly. I'm "sold", looking forward to being a happy customer soon. It's clear now that the exit rails can be left disconnected from or live to the frog. The former appeals to me as it avoids insulated joiners but I'll perhaps trial with both options once I get going as I'm pure DCC Ops. Regards,
  3. Naive / beginner's question here but from Darius's photo it appears the two inside exit rails of the turnout are not connected to the frog or each other, or is there wiring underneath to make it into one continuous connection? The "Electrofrog" turnouts from that other place which I have a mental image of (never having used one I confess) have the inner rails + frog as one piece if I'm understanding correctly.
  4. Hi Jeff, I haven't seen the TDF highlights mentioned and the route doesn't appear to go near La Ligne des Cévennes where the Chamborigaud Viaduct can be found but I'm guessing that was what the helicopter captured, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamborigaud#/media/File:30_chamborigaud_via_2006.jpg https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamborigaud This predates the Settle Carlisle structures by just a few years and rather out does them in terms of arches and setting I'm afraid, so not a copy (see my PM for more as I can't post it here). The journey on the entire line was covered in a UK TV series "World's Most Scenic Railway Journeys S2 Ep6 - France" recently aired here. You have to cope with the hyper-sugary commentary but the views make up for it. Charles Dombre built a number of amazing viaducts between Saint-Germain-des-Fossés and Nîmes. Now added to my bucket list for whenever.
  5. A few more comments. 1) Dimensions, the 2.1m x 1.5m disclosed on the plan suggests your grid matrix squares are 0.25m (am I reading this correctly?) 2) Curved platforms. totally agree with others' comments here. You need very long radius curves to make a curved model platform sensible to the eye. One of the tightest mainline stations I know of is 250m radius full scale or 3.28m radius at 1:76 scale! Your radius is ~0.6m which will give you an additional gap of ~13mm at each end of a standard coach (for your inside platform) - ~1m at full scale! 3)Traversers: If you can have 2 in /out lines separated by 1 line then the maximum required movement of the traverser is greatly reduced.
  6. Naively when a beginner, I had similar reverse curve 2 point crossovers to yours and they were a nightmare as I regularly got derailments when couplings became entangled. IMO you need longer radius points than you've used. The same is true on the narrow radius curves and points on your mainlines on the left side passing tracks. Rapid change of direction thru all those curved sections have high probability of being troublesome. Outside of sidings, wherever possible go for the longest radius points you can use. I find your engine shed setup impractical and nothing like I've ever seen. My suggestion before going any further is to do a lot more research. Look at some real life track configuration situations, the ordnance survey maps for your era are a good place to start. https://maps.nls.uk/index.html For example this is for Weston-super-Mare (1938) where all the relevant features are identified. Chose a good model for your plans even if you have no intention of modelling a prototype. 'Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland' (with additions) https://maps.nls.uk/index.html Less is better, resist the temptation to cram too much in. If your plan scale is feet (major grid) then 11' x 6' is a reasonable amount of room and IMO with less track and gentler curves you'll end up with a much more satisfying end result.
  7. Hi Jeff, Not noticed before how vertiginous your "drop" is off the front face of N-B Ever had anything go over and how good are your reflexes? Colin
  8. First step - a plan. Following in others' footsteps is a great help especially when they share their resources. So I have Diagrams of the LSWR saloon (1869- remodelled 1889) and a 4 compartment coach both in the 24' 6" length of #17. Ratio 612 (a Diag. U4; 26' 10" composite) is a suitable starting point, the main issues being to shed the extra width of the First Compartments and create the central saloon. Unlike #15 where saloon had its own entrance and no thoroughfare, #17 had access from the compartments at each end as per #1520 on the Bluebell Railway LSWR 1520 Following on from the blueprint, the first step is to carefully cleanup the surplus items on the moldings, in my case the door knobs and grab rails as well as some flash. This is shown below with just one more door's fixings to be trimmed. The bottom pair shows side 1 after all the required cuts and several joins have been made. The "X" marks where the other Saloon window will be created by cutting away the current panel area. Minor off-cut inserts are still required to complete the first saloon window frame.The as yet uncut other side is shown for comparison, 9mm longer than the end product. Compared to my other cut 'n shut on #15 this is relatively easy because all the side components are from the same source. #15 used sections from 2 different Ratio Kits which were a poor match and caused a lot of issues. Another useful reminder to self, when assembling side #2, mirror it along side the first by inverting as shown here: Particularly helpful when the sides are asymmetric as in this case otherwise it's hard to visualise the reverse assembly order for the second side. Here side #2 just needs the missing piece of the jigsaw puzzle to be cut to fit. The remaining tasks are now done, the spaces for the two saloon windows each side were cut out completely and a new upright for between the two panes cut from the surplus stock to hand. These are best fixed in place with a thick paste made from surplus sprue and limonene, about the consistency of toothpaste. This has a good combination of features - gap filling, high tack but enough give to enable careful positioning. I'm lucky to have one decent photo of #17 showing that after refitting for WC&PR service the ventilators ran the full length of this coach, unlike the others. Some fairly soft 0.5mm PS sheet was perfect for this job, easy to score at close separation. The insides of the coach walls were reinforced with a 0.5 * 3mm strip of more rigid PS. All major components have been reshaped to the required sizes and just a few notes here for future reference. Sides: An omission in my #15 assembly was to add additional material to the ~1mm flooring attachment strip. Here a second 1mm * 1mm PS strip has been glued on top as this gives a very positive surface to glue the side to the floor. It can be seen below the 3mm strengthening strip I'd added earlier. All door furniture holes were pre-drilled before priming Sub-chassis However carefully measured out it's an immutable law of nature (in my universe anyway!) that it won't be perfect. I think my cutting + filing are to blame for leaving the floor 1mm short after gluing back together. This is only obvious when put together alongside the cut down sides. No matter, a simple 1 * 1 mm PS strip was glued on one end to make up the shortfall. Some kits can have variances of this magnitude # and it's always worth checking before gluing! Ends: faux handrails were trimmed away. This is tricky as they are barely 0.3mm above the surface, best erring on side of underdone and then errors spotted when priming than gouging too deeply (note to self) which is hard to repair Roof: even with 9mm cut out, no need to rework the rain Strips as the match was fine. Priming shows up any minor gap filling needed at the join.
  9. The balance of the #15 build project was adding the various roof and piping accessories and the access steps. WC&PR having mostly railside stops these were an essential. Moving on to #16, a five compartment all Second also ex LSWR. The dimensions of the Parkside/Ratio GWR Kit 610 differ slightly but are near enough for my needs, hence the build was nothing remarkable. Here it is shown with the seating and the typical "open window" settings as usually seen when in operation. This is now on hold while I move on to #17 which requires major Cut and Shut surgery.
  10. Wayne, You're not alone. I get that a lot, intermittent loss of connectivity, images won't open, posts, edits or replies won't complete, getting left in mid air. Sometimes I just give up, it's become very frustrating and being in Oz I'm mostly accessing in the post midnight hours UK time. Colin
  11. In my limited experience brown definitely works better. Any light from residual areas offsets rather than reinforces the green, that is unless you're modelling an Irish or NZ location! First time round I used green and quickly scraped it off and redid the job with an earthy brown mix. Don't ask the shade as I had some old pots of exterior house paint and blended a rather reddish brown with something more Mission brown in shade, trying not to overly mix them to get some variation. Neat thing with using the mica filled exterior paints which they sell here is they're acrylic, very thick stuff indeed. Must be the climate? (Melbourne, VIC) works particularly well for upland areas as per in my Quantocks setting on here. Colin
  12. Hi, I've just caught up with the news about Gordon now, having been out of touch with him for far too long. Please send him my very best wishes for a full recovery. Colin Wilshire
  13. I suspect this is a false concern, at least as far as using modellers standard acrylic paint washes are concerned. Even commercial acrylics these days, the sort used for wall painting and trims, have moved to VOC free bases. I'd be steering clear of oil based enamels though. The benefits of providing a pigment covering (inevitably absorbing UV) would far outweigh the remote possibility that the application of paint itself might be deleterious. It is worth remembering that Acrylic paint is itself based on a type of polymeric resin which simply completes its polymerisation on application. What we are talking about is relative risks #. There is a high degree of risk in placing ANY plastic object under extended UV exposure even if they have stabilisers added while a simple coat of Acrylic pigmented paint should provide helpful protection. # Addition: One way to think about the risk issue is to consider if you can identify any material where using an acrylic paint causes a problem, be it corrosion, breakdown, damage, deterioration or whatever. Are there any contra-indications? I can't think of any and that's because there's no aggressive reactivity or solvent action going on while the paint cures. Once the acrylic (or acrylic-styrene copolymer) resin has cured all you have is an inert protective coating in place.
  14. Thanks very much, your entire set of comments were most helpful, I just avoided repeating them all in my reply! Fortunately I'm only interested in the 4-wheel variety. Pity though about the Brake Third as I imagine that'd not be the only 31ft coach missed by sticking only to 28ft 4 wheel offerings.
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